Help me decide on new Clutch, DMF or LWF?
#1
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Help me decide on new Clutch, DMF or LWF?
Well, I just returned from my local mechanic with a diagnosis of several oil leaks.
I will need to replace the RMS and the valve cover gaskets to get the car back in fighting shape.
The estimate to replace the upper and lower VC gaskets is $700 including labor.
The big decision is whether to replace the clutch at the same time I replace the RMS since the transmission will be out of the car. ($900 labor savings)
The car has 75K miles and the original clutch is fine ... my earlier 911 went 90K before I needed a new clutch so I probably have 15K miles left on the disc.
The big question: Should I replace the clutch ($2,900 parts and labor) while the transmission is out for the RMS or wait until needed?
The 2nd big question: Should I switch to the Light weight flywheel (LWF) instead of the Dual Mass flywheel (DMF)?
I love performance gains, but my car is a 95 with a possibility of stalling and idle issues with a LWF ... what are the odds?
The collective wisdom of Rennlist is appreciated
I will need to replace the RMS and the valve cover gaskets to get the car back in fighting shape.
The estimate to replace the upper and lower VC gaskets is $700 including labor.
The big decision is whether to replace the clutch at the same time I replace the RMS since the transmission will be out of the car. ($900 labor savings)
The car has 75K miles and the original clutch is fine ... my earlier 911 went 90K before I needed a new clutch so I probably have 15K miles left on the disc.
The big question: Should I replace the clutch ($2,900 parts and labor) while the transmission is out for the RMS or wait until needed?
The 2nd big question: Should I switch to the Light weight flywheel (LWF) instead of the Dual Mass flywheel (DMF)?
I love performance gains, but my car is a 95 with a possibility of stalling and idle issues with a LWF ... what are the odds?
The collective wisdom of Rennlist is appreciated
#3
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
The clutch kit with LWF is $1900 plus $1000 labor seems reasonable to me ... any other opinions ?
#4
The VC gaskets can be replaced easily with the engine in. If you want to save money, wait until the RMS it is really leaking (i.e. it has fouled the clutch disc) before you pull the trans. This is what I would do if I were you.
There's no way I'd recommend a DMF for a 993 regardless of year. I have a LWF on my 95. Just make sure you have a good, clean ICV and no vacuum leaks and you'll be fine with a LWF. It's a huge upgrade over a DMF. Looking for an excuse to pull the trans on my 97 so I can upgrade to a LWF.
Cheers,
Joe
There's no way I'd recommend a DMF for a 993 regardless of year. I have a LWF on my 95. Just make sure you have a good, clean ICV and no vacuum leaks and you'll be fine with a LWF. It's a huge upgrade over a DMF. Looking for an excuse to pull the trans on my 97 so I can upgrade to a LWF.
Cheers,
Joe
#6
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
#7
Race Director
I'm not sure. Wrestling with the same dilemma myself. The last thing I want is stalling, but the quicker revving would be nice, and it eliminates a failure point.
That said, I'd probably only get rid of a DMF if it was broken or excessively worn.
That said, I'd probably only get rid of a DMF if it was broken or excessively worn.
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#8
Rennlist Member
If I had a pure street '95 993, I'd go with the MWF. I rarely get stalling with my LWF. When I did have an issue, I cleaned the ISV, and that seemed to cure the problem. However, my car sees so little time on the street that it's hardly the best example, and I do get stalling very, very sporadically. Additionally, an aftermarket chip is supposed to be able to take care of any stalling.
<EDIT> Sorry, typed DMF but meant Andial MWF. Sorry for the confusion.
<EDIT> Sorry, typed DMF but meant Andial MWF. Sorry for the confusion.
Last edited by Mark in Baltimore; 07-22-2012 at 11:00 PM.
#9
Drifting
My clutch had 50% left at a similar mileage so you may well be able to just have the splines cleaned and relube. You can measure the disc and compare it to the FSM number. My '95 was not drive able without the 911 Steve Wong chip with the lwf mod. Perhaps others have had a different result. I still have occasional stalling when I brake hard and depress the clutch before the rpms have dropped enough. My driving style had to be changed but I occasionally forget. I have a new ISV on order which I am hoping resolves the remaining issues. I will know in a couple of weeks. A MWF might be a good compromise but I don't know the lwf benefits are lost. I thought I heard that the MWF was available again but expensive. I could be mistaken on the availability.
#10
Burning Brakes
Agreed.
It is great for throttle blipping and downshifts on agressive driving but for in town slow driving, if you don't regear, it just makes the stock gearing seem worse. 1st too short 2nd way too tall. IMO.
BTW I have a GIAC chip in now and it cured the stalling I had with stock and 911 chips. Steve Wong is upgrading mine to his newest program for free so I'll see how that compares.
It is a monster at WOT though
It is great for throttle blipping and downshifts on agressive driving but for in town slow driving, if you don't regear, it just makes the stock gearing seem worse. 1st too short 2nd way too tall. IMO.
BTW I have a GIAC chip in now and it cured the stalling I had with stock and 911 chips. Steve Wong is upgrading mine to his newest program for free so I'll see how that compares.
It is a monster at WOT though
#11
Rennlist Member
$1000 labor, if you're already taking the engine out? That doesn't sound reasonable to me. You cannot assume your clutch will make it to 90k, so I'd replace it. More so, since it sounds like your RMS is bad.
For a street car, no way on the LWF-stay with DMF.
For a street car, no way on the LWF-stay with DMF.
#12
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Thanks for the input so far ...
#13
Three Wheelin'
I'm with Ed on the $1000 labor for a clutch when the tranny's already out.
In terms of the LWF vs. Dual Mass, I will say that I would always replace a Dual Mass when doing the clutch, but in hindsight, I should have used a MFW from Andial in my 95 cab, not the LWF. Yes, it costs more, but WELL worth it. With the LWF, by modifying my driving style and the right chip, I could eliminate stalling 98% of the time, but I was constantly worrying about the 2%. Now that the car is gone (and not a rennlister), I will admit publicly that the LWF was part of what made me fall out of love with the cab (yes, it was the only thing I would have replaced the flywheel and kept it). You know what they say (for 95s, at least): Once you go MFW, you'll never go back!
In terms of the LWF vs. Dual Mass, I will say that I would always replace a Dual Mass when doing the clutch, but in hindsight, I should have used a MFW from Andial in my 95 cab, not the LWF. Yes, it costs more, but WELL worth it. With the LWF, by modifying my driving style and the right chip, I could eliminate stalling 98% of the time, but I was constantly worrying about the 2%. Now that the car is gone (and not a rennlister), I will admit publicly that the LWF was part of what made me fall out of love with the cab (yes, it was the only thing I would have replaced the flywheel and kept it). You know what they say (for 95s, at least): Once you go MFW, you'll never go back!
#15
You have had no stalling issues because you have a '97 which has OBDII. OP has a '95 and that means OBDI, and OBDI with a LWF can lead to drivability and stalling issues