Maybe I missed it, but how do you plan on using the car, and how do you normally drive? That would be a huge factor in what direction I'd suggest taking.

I have a basically stock '95, mid-year car, non-immobilizer OBD-I with the OBD-II port. Noise varies between almost inaudible to considerable depending on the situation. Took a week or two to really adjust my driving but I haven't stalled in months now (just need to train yourself to either wait until the RPM's come down before popping the clutch, or give it a little blip). I've driven it on an older Rennsport chip, a Wong chip, and two different stock chips (currently on a stock chip). Maybe my car is just special, but I didn't find the stalling to get any better or worse with any of them.

I think I'm going to try and see if I can't capture the "real" sounds of the LWF in and outside of the car with the external mic I got to use with my GoPro..

 

So, to summarize, (1) noise is not a big deal -- unless it is (at least to you); (2) stalling is not an issue -- unless you have a 95 (which you do OP) and then it probably is, but to varying degrees; (3) MWF will resolve stalling issue of 95, but at a cost; and (4) a LWF (or MWF for 95) is definitely the way to go -- unless it isn't because you don't want the noise and the increased responsiveness isn't a big priority. Phew.

 

Don't forget that a chip is supposed to help a '95 with a LWF.

 

(2a) a chip will help on a 95 -- but to varying degrees of success.

Seriously, I tried two chips in my 95. Both helped, one more than the other. Neither eliminated stalling.

 

Good data point.

 

Bottom line, kind of hard for one to really get a feel for what the LWF is all about from an online forum. I'd say that if you lean more towards track junkie side any extra noise a LWF makes will be no big deal. If you are the type that expects a 15+ year old sports car to drive like a new Lexus you probably won't like a LWF. If you are in between, you need to see if you can get out there and experience someone elses car that has one before you make the choise. Otherwise, online opinions are like, well lets say everybody has one and they all stink. Heck, I know one poster here that thinks RSR mufflers are way too loud and produce too much drone whereas I think they are only mildy louder than Motor Sound muffs. Everybody has different views on these types of things.

BTW, I like my LWF. The extra gear rattle at idle is no big deal for me as is the low pitched gear whine using 1st gear under load. But then again, I'm way into the track side of the car hobby.

 

We can have a contest to see who has the "most rocks in the dryer" sound for the LWF.

 

I think the combination of RS mounts and LWF affects the noise. I have LWF and RS mounts, there is a definately two types of sounds I hear. The "rocks in the dryer at idle", and the "grrrr" pulling from low revs. I assume the "grrr" is associated with the RS mounts and the "rocks in the dryer" from the LWF.

The other thing I noticed is a different smell when the clutch is slipped.

The LWF in my 97 I would have given away in the first few months. If you go with a LWF recommend the ISV to be cleaned. I had lot's of stalling from a sluggish ISV. I had to change my driving style. Without running the revs down with the clutch engaged, the engine can stall.

I am happier with the LWF now, but on balance I wouldn't do it again.

 

What is the RPM range where the high load / low RPM 'grrrr' noise is most prevalent? idle-to 1500? 2000? 2500?

 

I'd say in the idle to 1500 range.

 

I just received a new ISV in the mail today from our friends at FD. I thought I would get one and resolve this issue re: old ISV causing lwf fluctuating idle and stalling problems once and for all. If I have a slightly used ISV for sale in the classifieds next week you will know what happened

 

Thanks.. The amount of rattle is somewhat affected by the springs in the hub of the disk.

Do you guys have p/n's for which clutch disk you used? Would be interesting to see if the noise level trends vs. certain disks. If I had to guess, I'd assume the OE GT3 disk is the quietest of the bunch. The worst case would be re-using the original solid disk meant for use w/ the dual mass FW.

Do you notice a clunk or thud when transitioning from fully off the gas to ~ 1/4 to 1/2 open?

 

The rocks in a dryer noise is a puzzle to me, some cars exhibit it and others don't. I was in a couple of Cups last years that were horrible, I thought that they were going to fall apart, yet my car w/ the same transmission and clutch flywheel makes no noise at all.

 

It's also affected by the type of motor and transmission mounts, so I wonder if having clutch part numbers will lead to any data accuracy regarding the likelihood of getting noise, however one would quantify and define what is considered "too noisy".

 

^^ good point, please tell us which mounts you're using along w/ disk p/n.

The subjective piece is just that, subjective. Hopefully enough folks reply to help us glean some insight.