Immobilizer issues
06-21-2012, 10:48 AM
#1
Cows-4-Rent
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Immobilizer issues
Hello All,
Having a problem with my immobilizer in that the fob lights and it sounds like it tries to actuate the doors but they don't lock nor does it allow the car to start.
Worked fine before:
-the car battery (optima red top) died and was recharged.
-drove it several times after that with no problems.
-noticed the battery was going on the remote
-changed that with a (23A 12v) battery.
NOW:
-the fob light works when I press the button
-the actuators sound like they want to work
-the lights on the door stalks flash but the car does not lock/unlock
-the immobilizer does not turn off so the car can't be started.
If this process is in the manual, please let me know what that is...the manuals were stolen a couple of years ago...
Thank you.
Jeff
Having a problem with my immobilizer in that the fob lights and it sounds like it tries to actuate the doors but they don't lock nor does it allow the car to start.
Worked fine before:
-the car battery (optima red top) died and was recharged.
-drove it several times after that with no problems.
-noticed the battery was going on the remote
-changed that with a (23A 12v) battery.
NOW:
-the fob light works when I press the button
-the actuators sound like they want to work
-the lights on the door stalks flash but the car does not lock/unlock
-the immobilizer does not turn off so the car can't be started.
If this process is in the manual, please let me know what that is...the manuals were stolen a couple of years ago...
Thank you.
Jeff
06-21-2012, 08:31 PM
#3
Cows-4-Rent
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanks Paul, I recharged the battery for a couple of hours and it worked. Now I have to diagnose the power drain. Think I'll leave it charging overnight and see what happens...
06-21-2012, 10:10 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Sounds like you are on the right track. Could you get an ammeter around the positive battery cable (the kind that has a circular clamp that goes around the cable, like a Fluke i1010), to look for current, and start pulling fuses to see what the draw comes from? Might need a fairly sensitive clamp...
06-21-2012, 11:40 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Just get/borrow a good digital VOM with ammeter and alligator clip leads. With driver's window down, open hood, disconnect pos. battery terminal from battery and attach VOM leads in series with the Pos. battery post and Pos. terminal lead. Be sure your meter is set for Amps and on high range to start. Route the leads and meter outside, then gently close the hood 'til in latches. Go on lower ma scale and check for draw. Should be no more than 35-50 ma. If high, open the hood and start pulling fuses one at a time, closing the hood, checking the meter, replacing the fuse, `pulling another, etc. until the culprit circuit is found. Circuit descriptions are under the fuse box cover.
