Belt Change time, fan override, Parts list, tips questions ect
#16
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Here is the TSB on the Kriket (NAPA auto parts has them branded Gates from under $10):
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/e...1094geolab.pdf
Here is an informative video on the Kriket:
http://www.pcarworkshop.com/images/e...1094geolab.pdf
Here is an informative video on the Kriket:
Last edited by BobbyT; 06-22-2012 at 08:51 PM.
#18
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Just an update...
Last night went off without a hitch. With the assistance of Quadcammer we knocked out the belt job on my 993. Also changed the belt sensor and did a brake fluid flush.
Want to thank everyone here for the help with the questions i had earlier.
The belt squeak i was getting at start up is now gone. The AC belt is a PITA, the other belts were very straight forward. what a nice surprise compared to changing belts on my old 944. The belts were last done about 7 years ago during its 30k check and i think it was just getting time for them to be due.
the only thing we did not get to was adding in the oil cooler override switch. We started late since my garage was 104 degrees so by the time we wrapped up it was pretty late. I did manage to get the CCU out to have a look but had no luck removing the wiring harness from the back of it. any tips on that? at 2am i didnt want to push our luck after a successful evening.
whats the continuity supposed to be for the G12 wire on the switch?
Last night went off without a hitch. With the assistance of Quadcammer we knocked out the belt job on my 993. Also changed the belt sensor and did a brake fluid flush.
Want to thank everyone here for the help with the questions i had earlier.
The belt squeak i was getting at start up is now gone. The AC belt is a PITA, the other belts were very straight forward. what a nice surprise compared to changing belts on my old 944. The belts were last done about 7 years ago during its 30k check and i think it was just getting time for them to be due.
the only thing we did not get to was adding in the oil cooler override switch. We started late since my garage was 104 degrees so by the time we wrapped up it was pretty late. I did manage to get the CCU out to have a look but had no luck removing the wiring harness from the back of it. any tips on that? at 2am i didnt want to push our luck after a successful evening.
whats the continuity supposed to be for the G12 wire on the switch?
Last edited by EMBPilot; 07-13-2012 at 11:56 AM.
#19
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EMBPilot - don't know the answer to your question about the continuity of the switch but for the two wiring harnesses at the back of the CCU you just have to pull really hard to get them off. A pain to be sure but after 10 minutes of grunting, sweating and swearing, I got them off. The second one was much easier than the first.
#20
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The two wiring connectors on the back of the CCU are a different than most, they don't just pull straight out. They have a little latch at one end, and an hook at the other. Once you release the latch end, you have to swing that end of the connector outward, then the other end can be unhooked. The two connectors are installed so that one has the hook at the left end, and the other has it as the right end.
#21
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Thanks BobbyT for adding that. You are absolutely correct. You have to undo the latches then pull really hard to get them to swing out. Take note of how the hook side fits in for reassembly afterwards.
#22
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thank you guys ^^
i will re-attempt this... it was pretty hard even getting the CCU to come out using the ford din tool, i had to push it from behind while i had someone else working it from the front.
i will re-attempt this... it was pretty hard even getting the CCU to come out using the ford din tool, i had to push it from behind while i had someone else working it from the front.
#23
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do i want the G12 wire to be normally OPEN or normally CLOSED in relation to the switch?
---EDIT---
i think i got it, found this on P-car...
I interpret this to mean, to switch the oil cooler ON (override) you OPEN the circuit. Normally its CLOSED
---EDIT---
i think i got it, found this on P-car...
for normal fan operation, the connection will be shorted. This only matters if you decide to use the rear fog lamp switch because it will be pulled "out" for normal fan speed operation, and pushed "in" for high speed operation
I interpret this to mean, to switch the oil cooler ON (override) you OPEN the circuit. Normally its CLOSED
Last edited by EMBPilot; 07-13-2012 at 11:57 AM.
#24
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confirming; open circuit makes the fan run at high speed. If you use an old 944 hazard switch play around with ohm meter to figure out which two pin connections on the backside are open/closed for the 2 switch positions.
Also, I did not remove my CCU; it was pretty easy to locate the correct wire in the bundle.
Good lukc.
Also, I did not remove my CCU; it was pretty easy to locate the correct wire in the bundle.
Good lukc.
#25
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Thank you colt. 49 & 15 did check closed when the 944 switch is in the "off" position. I'll try it w/o removing CCU. Will report back, digging in now...
Last edited by EMBPilot; 07-13-2012 at 03:12 AM.
#26
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Thread Starter
All wrapped up...
I relocated the front plate with Jef's kit "inventiva concepts", well thought out, carefully made kit. Thanks CurveLover for helping me find that. While its not as good as no front plate, it'll keep the local cops at bay. BumperPlugs for the holes.
next was to do the oil cooler override. I used a new 944 hazard light switch from Sunset, was around $60. put the DIN pins into the CCU, reach up from behind and give it a shove out. cut the G12 wire, its the lower harness, 12th wire over on the bottom. i crimped on wires to each end and just ran them down to the switches. I was able to fit butt connectors onto the back of the 944 switch tightly. As covered here before, G12 wires go to Pins 49 and 15. Pin 31 gets ground and pin 58 gets power, both from the sunroof wires, brown - and orange w yellow is +. i spliced and soldered the ground but it was taking entirely too long, so after i finished it with shrink wrap i used a snap on wire splice for the + lead, so much easier.
thats it! the switch is black, lights up bright red when the fan is selected to on. Thanks to Quad for his help with the important stuff (brake flush and belts) and to Coltj for his last minute clarifications for my switch.
opening up the sunroof switch to tap them.
--- EDIT ---
i removed the bullet connectors off the 944 hazard switch. I was able to obtain the plug for the back of the switch with the wires attached. open the plug up and remove the wires from the pins by reheating the solder. Solder in the existing wires into the pins, and put the pins in the proper positions inside the plug. close up the plug and attach to the switch like it should be.
ALSO...
i learned from users over PM that its not too tricky to torque the fan / alternator shaft nut properly. it should be 50nm +-5nm. Using a 24mm crowsfoot at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench, hold the shaft with the 10mm triple square and torque the nut.
I relocated the front plate with Jef's kit "inventiva concepts", well thought out, carefully made kit. Thanks CurveLover for helping me find that. While its not as good as no front plate, it'll keep the local cops at bay. BumperPlugs for the holes.
next was to do the oil cooler override. I used a new 944 hazard light switch from Sunset, was around $60. put the DIN pins into the CCU, reach up from behind and give it a shove out. cut the G12 wire, its the lower harness, 12th wire over on the bottom. i crimped on wires to each end and just ran them down to the switches. I was able to fit butt connectors onto the back of the 944 switch tightly. As covered here before, G12 wires go to Pins 49 and 15. Pin 31 gets ground and pin 58 gets power, both from the sunroof wires, brown - and orange w yellow is +. i spliced and soldered the ground but it was taking entirely too long, so after i finished it with shrink wrap i used a snap on wire splice for the + lead, so much easier.
thats it! the switch is black, lights up bright red when the fan is selected to on. Thanks to Quad for his help with the important stuff (brake flush and belts) and to Coltj for his last minute clarifications for my switch.
opening up the sunroof switch to tap them.
--- EDIT ---
i removed the bullet connectors off the 944 hazard switch. I was able to obtain the plug for the back of the switch with the wires attached. open the plug up and remove the wires from the pins by reheating the solder. Solder in the existing wires into the pins, and put the pins in the proper positions inside the plug. close up the plug and attach to the switch like it should be.
ALSO...
i learned from users over PM that its not too tricky to torque the fan / alternator shaft nut properly. it should be 50nm +-5nm. Using a 24mm crowsfoot at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench, hold the shaft with the 10mm triple square and torque the nut.
Last edited by EMBPilot; 07-20-2012 at 09:35 AM.
#27
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Plus when using the proper tool, the belts get to be tensioned correctly.
Looking at the Porsche Technical Bulletin, the maximum tension listed is a mere 28 kg or about 61 pounds. The alternator bearing is the same used on the front wheel of many motorcycles and each bearing is loaded to at least twice that, and they last under harsher conditions.
Looking at the Porsche Technical Bulletin, the maximum tension listed is a mere 28 kg or about 61 pounds. The alternator bearing is the same used on the front wheel of many motorcycles and each bearing is loaded to at least twice that, and they last under harsher conditions.