michel j

First step would be agree on gear choices.

csertich

Thanks Michael. Tjhat's what I'm working towards. Not easy.
chuck
,

matt777

I would start with selecting the 1st gear. Most keep the existing 1st gear due to cost. There are a couple of choices it seems for second. I've got a 2.4 (3rd choice) but would look at the 2.25. The next choice is 6th. You can keep it but it is way too tall IMHO (0.775!)and so you can either move 5 (0.921) up to 6 to save some $$$ or toss it and buy a 0.821 G50/21 6th or 0.857 depending on your highway needs. Moving the old 5 up to 6 isn't great for high speed cruising. Now all you have to do is select 3 ,4 and 5. The % drop from 2 to 3 should be greater than 3 to 4 and 4 to 5.

os993's gear selections (from his early post ) sound pretty good to me.

1st (stock, obviously)
2nd - 2.25
3rd - 1.65
4th - 1.286
5th - 1.040
6th - 0.821 (euro 6th). I actually like this gear a lot - ideal for cruising at 75mph+ with decent RPM range. I would strongly consider this, given the fact that you're already in there.

michel j

I know this won't be easy. So much $, almost half of what the car is worth for some.

OK, 2nd is 2.25 and it's not going to be OE gear, so we need to live with some gear whine because it's now a straight cut gear.

What are the choices for 3rd??

trophy

After speaking with California Motorsport, the first gear can be changed with a little expense and no requirement to replace the shaft with the Porsche Motorsport one. They will remove the old gear and reweld a new gear for Approx $1400... Including the gear...

Of course its not only the gears that need to be looked at, there are a number of wear items that need to be addressed such as bearings, syncro's, shift forks etc. If a box is being build with any track or AX in mind then the Shift forks, Steel Syncros and Steel caged bearings are a must..

The other component that is missed is the bearing cages, and changing them to steel raced cages instead of the ceramic/plastic ones that can fail. These run about $180 a piece.

I was going through a list of prices the other day and a good box can be built at a fairly reasonable price in parts if you can either DIY or have a friend...

michel j

That is not too bad. Personally, I am OK with my 1st gear for a street car.

csertich

This is great info guys. Thanks for taking the time to post. I really appreciate it. This helps a lot. Michael, I'm going to look at the gear charts and may post what i'm thinking about 3rd and see what you thiink.
Thanks very much for all the great info.
chuck

pcarrera993

Sunset has rebuilt G50/31 w/LSD available for $12,159. If you send "G31" core and Porsche approves you get refunded $2,257. So your looking at 9k and change + shipping. Expensive but you get one hell of a tranny.

--T

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Caveat: you must send a G50/31 core back to Porsche. They will not accept a G50/20 or G50/21.

NP993

I've posted about this in previous threads, but FWIW -- I did an inexpensive re-gear by swapping out 3, 4, and 5 for the /31 ratios. You get 80% of the benefits at 25% of the cost.

I don't really care about 1st gear for a street car and there's effectively no difference in 2nd gear ratio between /20 and /31. The key benefit of the /31 box (again, on a street car) is tightening the 3-4-5 stack and eliminating the big drop between 2nd and 3rd. I kept 6th stock for highway cruising. Best money I've ever spent on my car. You really don't have to drop $10K on a regear.

pcarrera993

That changes things a bit. Thanks for pointing out Steve. I'm also looking into regearing my C4S so going through all the posts and options now.

Bill Verburg

If you are doing a regear for track use, strong consideration should be used to replace the bearings, syncros and forks w/ more robust motorsports versions. particularly the bearings as the std plastic case ones are just not up to a lot of track time

Analog Theory

I'm just wondering...is there really a big noticeable difference between a 2.176 & 2.25 2nd?

NP993

Exactly. There is no difference. Michael Schumacher couldn't tell you which one you have. So unless for some reason you really need the tall 1st, I've never understood why people spend huge $$$ for the RS mainshaft and two extra gearsets that get you....basically nothing.*

*Track cars, of course, are a different story.

Bill Verburg

Here's the difference you feel, /20 has more torque in a given gear in 1 & 2, otherwise the nod goes to /3x, on NE tracks the lowest you use is 2, the /3x has a way shorter rpm drop from 1 to 2, this feels much better, if you can't feel it, then no it's not worth the $