[QUOTE=nile13;9605697] I'd like to unplug the stupid siren. I do hate alarms, any sort of alarms./QUOTE]

+993

we live in a society that protects things better than lives, what a waste of time and money these immobilizer alarms are

 

HI,I also had same problem with my last car I really try to know what's the problem here but I couldn't then I had to go to garage for solving this problem and the mechanic told me ,there is problem in the car's battery and the same story with my home's smoke alarms.But now I first of all check the battery of the spoil item then go ahead.
so thanks

alarm monitoring Kenmore

 

I just discovered the double flash tonight on the car. Everything is closed up, so must be a bad switch.

 

so I still have the double flash - no alarm going off.

 

Others have suggested that a marginal battery can cause alarm issues. That is an easy thing to check or to have checked. Here's a previous thread.

The self test will fault (double blink) if:
the doors are not closed (or a door switch is bad)
doors are not locked (or a bad door lock switch)
hood is not closed (or bad switch)
luggage compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
alarm horn is not connected
glove compartment not closed (or bad switch)
radio not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)
parcel shelf switch on cabriolet
fuse 11 blown or missing

 

thanks hoggel

 

My LEDs are double blinking. I went out for a drive today (~45 minutes) and when I got back I checked the voltage w/ignition off. I got 12.2 volts. 3 hours later I checked the voltage again and got 11.9. I have gone out for drives of 1-2 hours in the last four days so presumably the battery is as charged as it's going to get.

With everyone home for Christmas I checked son's car (12.7) and daughter's (13.7) so it seems like my battery voltage is low. Could this be causing the the fault?

Short of putting in a new battery, what could I do to test this (e.g., connect a charger to the battery)?

Thanks in advance for helping a noobie.

 

If you can start the car, you need to plug a simple voltmeter into your cigarette light and go for a drive, see if your alternator is putting out 13.5-14 Volts. If it is, then your battery just isn't taking the charge and need to be replaced. If it isn't, your alternator needs attention.

 

Thank you. Something to do tomorrow while the turkey is in the oven, and I'm always up for an excuse to take her for a drive...

 

I was able to gin up a voltage tester with a cigarette lighter adapter (see below) and some alligator clips.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...26+accessories

The voltage with the car running was 13.9-14.1 volts so the alternator looks like it's OK.

I took the battery back to have it replaced under warranty but they guy at O'Reilly said that it just needed to be charged. I put it on my charger and did so, and it still does not hold a charge. I need to go back and push somemore...

I obviously haven't replaced the battery yet but when I do is there anything else that I need to do to get rid of the double blink? I tried the key fob while the battery was on the charger and the voltage at the cigarette lighter was 12.7 volts, but when I locked the car I still got the double blink.

 

Problem solved

I took the battery out and had it checked. It tested OK.

I verified that the switches on the doors and trunk/engine hoods were working (either door open would cause the interior lights to light; interior lights would light with both doors closed but either the trunk or engine hood open).

In a previous life the CDR-210 had been replaced with a CDR-220. I had read enough about the "green wire" on this forum to suspect that that might be the problem. I took a look at the connections in the back of the HU (fortunately I could do this without taking it out). There was a green wire attached to the right rear of the chassis. It didn't look exactly like the pictures that I had seen but there was enough wire that if cutting it did not fix the problem I would be able to reconnect the wire ends and be no worse off than I had been.

With the wire clipped the radio still works and the alarm is now arming properly (when I lock the doors I get rapid flashing for ~10 seconds; 1 flash/2 seconds thereafter).

This is a great place. I would not have been able to diagnose and fix the problem without the information on this forum. Thank you Rennlisters!

 

Have a 97 993 turbo. Life was great. Only issue with the car was occasional right door no unlocking. Has couplets on alarm . No big deal….

enter a new 6 month lab. Ate my only key fob . Wtf. … ordered new fob can’t get through reprogramming without alarm going off after first 2 number of code in.

I have chest pain now . Any ideas on where to go.

 

Emergency room?

 

no not emergency room but I did have to drink a bunch of beer last night too. Get through the pain. Any help in this area would be great not looking forward to dealing with the dealership. I have a suspicion they’re just gonna try to replace everything and still have not worked right? Does anybody have experience with the bypass options from specialized ECU?

 

Here’s another option for defeating the immobilizer: www.ezimmoblock.com. It’s plug-in and an easy DIY. We have a 25% off sale thru end of the month. (Use promo code EOY 23). You’ll still need to program a fob and we offer that as a free service when ordered with an IMMO BLOCK.