Alarm LED question
06-11-2012, 12:25 AM
#1
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Alarm LED question
If I remember correctly, the door LEDs are supposed to flash once every 10 seconds or so after the initial test sequence of quick flashes. Mine goes through the quick flash sequence and then flashes once every two seconds or so. A few days ago the alarm went off on two separate occasions after the car's been sitting locked for a few hours.
So... is my memory correct? Is it supposed to flash once every 10 seconds? Or is mine OK with flashes every 2 seconds? Mine doesn't double-flash as far as I can see. I'm disconnecting the battery nightly in order not to be beaten up by the neighbors
I'd like to get back to normal operations.
So... is my memory correct? Is it supposed to flash once every 10 seconds? Or is mine OK with flashes every 2 seconds? Mine doesn't double-flash as far as I can see. I'm disconnecting the battery nightly in order not to be beaten up by the neighbors
I'd like to get back to normal operations.
06-11-2012, 01:34 PM
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Here's some blah blah from a previous post. Each of the things on the self test list will cause the alarm to sound (except disconnecting the alarm horn of course).
Everything I know about the system I read in the repair manual. ...
Does your alarm system pass the self test? If there is a fault in the system it won't go into programming mode.
When you activate the alarm system the LED on the door should flash rapidly (2 Hz) for ~10 seconds while the alarm self tests.
If the system has no faults then the LED will begin a slower (.5 Hz) single flash.
If the alarm system has faults it won't flash for the 10 seconds during the self test and will double flash after the self test.
The self test will fault if:
the doors are not closed (or a door switch is bad)
doors are not locked (or a bad door lock switch)
hood is not closed (or bad switch)
luggage compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
alarm horn is not connected
glove compartment not closed (or bad switch)
radio not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)
parcel shelf switch on cabriolet
fuse 11 blown or missing
Does your alarm system pass the self test? If there is a fault in the system it won't go into programming mode.
When you activate the alarm system the LED on the door should flash rapidly (2 Hz) for ~10 seconds while the alarm self tests.
If the system has no faults then the LED will begin a slower (.5 Hz) single flash.
If the alarm system has faults it won't flash for the 10 seconds during the self test and will double flash after the self test.
The self test will fault if:
the doors are not closed (or a door switch is bad)
doors are not locked (or a bad door lock switch)
hood is not closed (or bad switch)
luggage compartment is not closed (or bad switch)
alarm horn is not connected
glove compartment not closed (or bad switch)
radio not fitted correctly (or aftermarket head unit not properly isolated)
parcel shelf switch on cabriolet
fuse 11 blown or missing
06-11-2012, 02:29 PM
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Hoggel, thanks!
I've seen this previous post while searching yesterday. My alarm seems to initiate and set correctly. I just remember distinctly that on this and my previous 993 the blinks were much father apart after the initial set period. Like once every 10 seconds or so. Could someone comment on how often their LED blinks after, say 10-15 minutes of alarm being set?
I've seen this previous post while searching yesterday. My alarm seems to initiate and set correctly. I just remember distinctly that on this and my previous 993 the blinks were much father apart after the initial set period. Like once every 10 seconds or so. Could someone comment on how often their LED blinks after, say 10-15 minutes of alarm being set?
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06-12-2012, 12:08 PM
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Before an extended analysis of the alarm is done check the battery voltage with the ignition off. A low voltage battery causes all sorts of potential issue. <12.5 volts ok, 13.5 volts better.
06-12-2012, 12:21 PM
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Battery voltage is a good place to start, when I had alarm problems it turned out to be a faulty battery to body earth strap, high resistance
06-12-2012, 02:16 PM
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The battery's fine, checked that. Will double-check teh strap too just in case. But, really, it's my memory I should be checking
Thanks, guys! The car sat for 24 hours without screaming. Which is good. Still, I'd like to unplug the stupid siren. I do hate alarms, any sort of alarms. So the next question - if the alarm siren is simply unplugged, will the security system arm and operate properly otherwise? Or will I have to install a resistor instead of the siren?
Thanks, guys! The car sat for 24 hours without screaming. Which is good. Still, I'd like to unplug the stupid siren. I do hate alarms, any sort of alarms. So the next question - if the alarm siren is simply unplugged, will the security system arm and operate properly otherwise? Or will I have to install a resistor instead of the siren?
06-12-2012, 05:20 PM
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The battery's fine, checked that. Will double-check teh strap too just in case. But, really, it's my memory I should be checking
Thanks, guys! The car sat for 24 hours without screaming. Which is good. Still, I'd like to unplug the stupid siren. I do hate alarms, any sort of alarms. So the next question - if the alarm siren is simply unplugged, will the security system arm and operate properly otherwise? Or will I have to install a resistor instead of the siren?
Thanks, guys! The car sat for 24 hours without screaming. Which is good. Still, I'd like to unplug the stupid siren. I do hate alarms, any sort of alarms. So the next question - if the alarm siren is simply unplugged, will the security system arm and operate properly otherwise? Or will I have to install a resistor instead of the siren?
06-12-2012, 05:47 PM
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I don't have the factory remotes as this is a '95 without immobilizer.
So if security system arms and operates without siren maybe I'll just measure siren resistance and connect a resistor of that value between the terminals just in case. Or I might get a used siren and chop up the diaphragm, perhaps? Any thoughts on that? I've been meaning to castrate the damn siren for a while just in case.
So if security system arms and operates without siren maybe I'll just measure siren resistance and connect a resistor of that value between the terminals just in case. Or I might get a used siren and chop up the diaphragm, perhaps? Any thoughts on that? I've been meaning to castrate the damn siren for a while just in case.
06-12-2012, 06:10 PM
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I don't have the factory remotes as this is a '95 without immobilizer.
So if security system arms and operates without siren maybe I'll just measure siren resistance and connect a resistor of that value between the terminals just in case. Or I might get a used siren and chop up the diaphragm, perhaps? Any thoughts on that? I've been meaning to castrate the damn siren for a while just in case.
So if security system arms and operates without siren maybe I'll just measure siren resistance and connect a resistor of that value between the terminals just in case. Or I might get a used siren and chop up the diaphragm, perhaps? Any thoughts on that? I've been meaning to castrate the damn siren for a while just in case.
If you don't have immobilizer and don't have a siren, what does the alarm do for you?
06-12-2012, 06:55 PM
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That's the thing, I don't want an alarm. I just want to be able to lock my doors and not have them unlock randomly if security system decides to de-activate itself. I also want to be able to start the car (the car doesn't start without Alarm box under the seat, that I know for sure in both my early and late '95s with 01 and 02 alarm boxes).