LAT

After 15 years of faithful service I had this happen to me. Luckily it was at home and not traveling.

The top went down fine this morning but got stuck in this cockeyed manner on the way up and now nothing happens when you press the switch.

Not wanting to damage anything by forcing what should I do to get it closed so I have it repaired.

timothymoffat

Try searching for manual top operation. Won't fix the problem but should allow you to open and close the top. There are a few threads on this. Sorry I couldn't be more help.


PS: The 993 Turbo and R8 should keep you occupied while this is sorted.

JPP

looks like your passenger side cable has either snapped or come off the transmission pulley .. I think Tim's right, you should disconnect and go manual if you can .. until you can have it repaired properly.

kalex993

See the plastic Plug near the seatbelt holder, remove it. There should be one on each side. In your tool kit, there is a socket 17 or 18?mm that will fit the bolt under those caps. Loosen it, do not remove the bolt, repeat on the otherside. You should be able to close the top manually. Also, please check the cab fuse, it's probably tripped. Usually when you closed the top manually, the latch should still operable via the switch. Hope this helps.

abiazis

+1...

Happened to me and the cables got out of adjustment.....had them replaced and adjusted to spec......that was 10 years ago.....

LAT

This has to be one of the best forums on the web.

Followed the above provided advice and the top is now a manual top. The fuse was fine and the latches did their job. Off to the dealer to find out what the damage is, it may remain a manual top.

Thanks to all for the quick responses.

JPP

^^^ I can tell you after 15 years, you probably need cables on both sides because they stretch over time and tension straps and a little adjustment .. you're probably looking at $1000 repair. I had mine done and afterwards, it was factory fresh again which I really put value on but many here have just gone manual and seem to be able to live with it no problem.

LAT

JPP, I hope you are right for $1,000-1,500 it would be a go. I like the automatic function after all I've been spoiled for the 11 years I've had her.

DocTock993

I used to think that power/ hands-free was the way to go.
Then, one day the roof adopted the appearance of the first picture.
Searched the threads and put the roof on manual.
As you have to get out of the car to take the tonneau off, it's no additional effort to raise the roof.
You can get the "gotta touch a button and have an automatic aspect" out of your system when you finally lock the roof in place.
It's saved me at least $1k+ in service fees too.

murfysflaw

Mine did that once and I converted to manual operation. I did dig into it and found the cable on one side had slipped. I fixed that, got the power top working again, then converted right back to manual. I put it back in power mode when I sold it.

Manual isn't a big deal because, as said above, you're supposed to put the cover on anyway. It also allowed me more of an opportunity to make sure the alignment pins didn't poke holes in the top (again) as it folded up.

e9stibi

It is most likely a problem with the shafts that connect the motor with the two gear boxes at the side. I fixed this as a DIY: Material costs 0, labor (because the drive cables are clued under the carpet). You need to get the gear boxes with drive cable out for the repair. Do not expect the shop doing this type of repair that I describe below. They will charge you more than $1000 by using new cables and or gear boxes ($$$) plus lots of labor ...

As a starter for diagnosis, do the following: Remove the inside cover in the rear of the car to access the motor for the top. The drive cables are clipped. Just remove the clip with the screw driver and check a) how far the metal piece of the drive cable sticks out and b) if the square shape got rounded on the side that caused the issue. If this is the case, it can be fixed with some creativity:

- Remove the metal end of the drive by carefully drillling it out where it is clamped
- Shorten the plastic surrounding of the cable which caused the issue by extending over time in heat. Cut off the rounded end of the metal of the cable that it sticks out in nice square shape for 1.5 - 2 cm.
- Slide the metal end back on and "crimp" it with a small screwdriver and hammer
- Put the gears with cable back in and synchronize the gear boxes. This is required because the boxes have one a 1/4 disk with gears to safe costs (and weight I assume)

Good Luck.

hn

Mine looked just like that when the one cable came off. Beside having to a buy new cable, the top was fine. Yours might be ok too.

+1 Don't buy the new cables if not necessary. They will be short again and it's not because of over used. I rarely used mine and they still became short after couple of years.

LAT

I have a quote from the dealer for $1,600 for motors with cables plus labor of $730 plus plus etc., I'm looking at $2,400-$2,500 dollars. A little excessive to my way of thinking.

I have seem motors with cables on eBay for $400.00 each or $800 a pair.

How do I determine which one is malfunctioning in the car as it may only be one.

How can I tell if a used unit will work before installing. What should I look for?

e9stibi

See my posting above to test for the most likely issue.

JPS

My NYC indy did it a few years ago for I think $1400 installed. I'd have to look at the receipt. Maybe I'm thinking parts only, but I think that's right.