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Clutch Slave & Master Cylinder Replacement

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Old 05-07-2015, 01:02 PM
  #31  
CHJ
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Originally Posted by Mike J
I can understand metal fatigue and how a spring can decay with use, but I have never seen one so bad that it impacts the feel of the pedal - but then again, it might be doing that and i just never thought that could be a problem area!

Yes, its the spring assist in the pedal cluster that he is talking about.

Cheers,

Mike
Seems to me like that one might need some teflon grease after 20 years. I'll have to try that on mine and let folks know.

ChuckJ
Old 05-07-2015, 01:38 PM
  #32  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by CHJ
Are you talking about the spring at the bottom of the pedal?

ChuckJ
As Mike mentioned, yes.

But I also forgot to mention the pressure plate. Along with the preload tension spring in the pedal cluster, the spring tension of the pressure plate is part of the equation as well. It is what forces the slave cylinder piston back in, which via hydraulics then does its thing at the master cylinder up front to help the pedal return. Air in the system takes away from proper pedal action.

That is the way I understand it.
Old 08-15-2015, 03:19 PM
  #33  
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Default clutch bleeding issue

This is a great thread, good pictures.

I followed this but am struggling to bleed the system. Replaced the master cylinder, slave, and hydraulic line. Cannot seem to get the pedal pressure again.
Used motive pressure bleeder, 5psi, pumped by hand, nothing still.

Is there another trick to getting out the air?
Old 08-15-2015, 04:16 PM
  #34  
NC TRACKRAT
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One possibility is that you're allowing the fluid in the reservoir to get below the tube that feeds the clutch slave, potentially allowing air to enter the system. If you continue to have problems, connect tubing from the slave cylinder to a bleed nipple on the left rear caliper. Make sure the reservoir cap is off or at least loose. Open both nipples, then slowly and carefully push down on the brake pedal. Have someone close the nipples while the pedal is depressed before releasing. Repeat the procedure until the clutch pedal responds properly.
Old 08-16-2015, 02:22 PM
  #35  
uniquenamehere
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Originally Posted by kyracedog
This is a great thread, good pictures.

I followed this but am struggling to bleed the system. Replaced the master cylinder, slave, and hydraulic line. Cannot seem to get the pedal pressure again.
Used motive pressure bleeder, 5psi, pumped by hand, nothing still.

Is there another trick to getting out the air?
I don't think 5psi is enough for the motive bleeder. I used about 12-15 if I recall correctly when I bled my slave cylinder.
Old 08-16-2015, 03:28 PM
  #36  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by uniquenamehere
I don't think 5psi is enough for the motive bleeder. I used about 12-15 if I recall correctly when I bled my slave cylinder.
I used 15 psi if I recall.
Old 08-16-2015, 03:42 PM
  #37  
nine9six
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Yes! More pressure @ 10-15 lbs, but wouldn't go much higher for fear of cracking a 20 yr old brake res.

You are starting with a filled res, plus plenty of fluid in your power bleeder, yes?
Old 08-16-2015, 08:24 PM
  #38  
Enso
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Thanks for the post Alex, one of my projects for the coming winter
BTW i used 20 lbs on my 964

Kind Regards
glenn
Old 08-16-2015, 10:06 PM
  #39  
kyracedog
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All good advice.
Walked away yesterday, took my youngest to college today, came back, bled with more pressure 15-20psi, used the motive with fluid in it, back to normal.
thanks all.
Old 08-16-2015, 11:36 PM
  #40  
OverBoosted28
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This is Porsche service procedure. 2 bar is 28 PSI, correct?Name:  image.jpg
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I usually bleed at 20 PSI
Old 08-17-2015, 11:02 PM
  #41  
911-TOUR
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For all those that have a "hanging" clutch pedal or what seems like a two stage pedal travel - let me suggest replacing the clutch kinematic arm - part no: 993.423.519.03. This one change on my car 10 years ago took the clutch pedal from a painful and frustrating experience to a joy - perfectly linear and smooth. Have never since had a problem with it.

Enjoy!

sean



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