nathan1

I have a 95' 993 Coupe that I use 50/50 for track and street. Here is the current setup:

Track:

Front-18x8 ET 44.5 Fikse FM10 w/ 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cups (MPSC)
Rear- 18x10 ET 57 Fikse FM10 w/ 265/35/18 MPSC

Street-
Front- 18x8 ET 50 MY02's- 225/40/18 Michelin PS2
Rear- 18x10 ET 65 My02's- 265/35/18 Michelin PS2 (showing cord...)

Currently both my MPSC and PS2's are at the end of their lives. I would like to step up my game as it relates to track work and go to a true race tire. Here is my proposed setup:

Street-

Front-18x8 ET 44.5 Fikse FM10 w/ 225/40/18 Dunlop Direzza Star Specs
Rear- 18x10 ET 57 Fikse FM10 w/ 265/35/18 Dunlop Direzza Star Specs

I have these on my 71 and they have been great, I honestly like them more than the PS2's I have on the 993. Anybody run these on the 993 for agressive street? feedback?

Track:

Front-18x8 ET 50 MY02's-245/35/18 Hoosier R6
Rear- 18x10 ET 65 My02's- 285/30/18 Hoosier R6

Switch to the MY02's due to the offset better suiting a wider rear tire. I figured the offset of the wheels would bring them in ~8mm and the Hoosier is 10mm wider than the current MPSC (292.1 vs. 282.6). Since that would be split on both sides of the tire the Hoosiers would actually retract ~3mm vs. my current setup. Does that make sense?

I am concerned because with my current setup with the MPSC's I literally have maybe 2mm of clearance between the sidewall and my fender lip. It hasnt contacted but frankly I dont know how... Current ride height is 24 3/8 L&R in the rear. The car is very stiff with Moton's but I would like a little extra margin of safety.

If I rolled the fender how much additional clearance can I expect? It makes me really nervous as I don't want to crack the paint.

Any suggestions in the Seattle area for rolling fenders?

I am scheduled for about 12 track days this year split between ORP and Spokane with one day at Miller. How many days could I expect to see out of the R6's?

KaiB

Why not take a nice drive down to Portland and have Rothsport roll your fenders, although virtually any decent body shop should have no problem doing it.

12 events and one set of R6s, nah. A strong DE'er might get 20-24 heat cycles out of them, but the last 3 or 4 will be noticably slower. At 4 to 5 heat cycles a day, you might reconsider.

BFG R1s will last you about 50% than the Hoosiers unless you really, really push them.

Bill Verburg

Front-18x8 ET 50 MY02's-245/35/18 Hoosier R6 will sit 5.5mm further inboard than your 18x8 ET 44.5 Fikse FM10 w/ 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport Cups (MPSC), the whole wheel/tire assembly is moved 5.5mm further inboard, you will get some rub at full lock which is generally ok as it mostly just happens in the pits.

Rear- 18x10 ET 65 My02's- 285/30/18 Hoosier R6 will sit 8mm further inboard than 18x10 ET 57 Fikse FM10 w/ 265/35/18 MPSC, again the whole assembly moves 8.8mm further inboard due to ET change.

you will probably have to roll the drivers side rear fender a little but this is easily done w/ a baseball bat.

Bill Verburg

I should add that the tire change loses you 4.5mm on the lip side and 15.5mm on the chassis side in front and in back you gain .5mm of lip clearance but lose 15.5mm on the chassis side

jscott82

+1 to what Bill said about fitment..

R6 is not a very good DE tire, they will suck you in with tremendous grip the first weekend then quickly fade away over the next one or two weekends. Its called smoking from the Hoosier crack pipe, once you get a taste its hard to put down, but very expensive habit to keep up.

For top performance (that's why you are running them, right?) I think 15 heat cycles is about where they get to the point you are not happy anymore. So 4 run groups a day, 2 days a weekend = 8heat cycles per weekend... 2 weekends lifetime.....

nathan1

I was hoping to get a little more rubber down hence the desire to jump up in size as well as a little more absolute grip. I have had good luck with the MPSC as I have gotten 8 full days out of them and they still have a little life in them.

Of course like everyone I have to live in the real world so price comes into the equation, so I would probably sacrifice some absolute grip for cost/tire life. Here are the other choices I have considered:

Kumho V710 but my cost is $1,262 for the set which is not much less than the $1,342/set cost for the R6. So I didn't think it was worth it, thoughts?

Hancook Z214-245/35 front and 275/35 rear. My cost $854 so the price is right... My concern is the diameter difference between front and rear which is .8 inch 24.7 front and 25.5 rear. Will this cause any issues? What are people seeing for wear life on these?

KaiB

Probably closer to the truth if you're driving at that level...I use BFG R1s for 90% of my track work. This year I'll have proper data to resolve the lingering question about how they actually compare to R6s in terms of lap time.

Nader Fotouhi

I decided to go with Nitto NT01 for DE on the same wheels you are using.

Falcondrivr

I use Hoosier R6, 245/35/18 and 295/30/18 on MY'02s. My car is between RS and ROW height, no rubbing, but my driver's side fender was rolled with a baseball bat a bit.
I have a good source for used ones, so I get them with 5-8 heat cycles on them for $25 a tire...If I was paying retail, i think I'd go with the Hankooks. I hear very good things about them. Got a buddy with 2 years of DE on a set on his 951. He's fast too.

Bill Verburg

I strongly agree w/ your desire to keep f/r tire heights as close to being equal as is possible, the ABS functions at it's best when this is so.

It's extremely frustrating shopping track ties for our cars when you want to go larger than the stock 225/40 & 265/35 because only Hoosier and Kumho have 245/35 and 280/30 which are the next step up w/ matching f/r heights.

There are now 2 brands of hp street radials that also come in the 245/280 sizing we need, BS SO4 and Conti ECDW but neither will stock like warm MPSCs in the stock sizes.

nathan1

Thanks everyone for your help and ideas. At this point I am leaning towards the Hancook's. My only reservation is the diameter difference front to rear. The fronts are 24.7 in and the rears 25.5 or a difference of .8. Expressed as a % that is about a 3.2% difference.

I have heard conflicting opinions about this, is this enough to upset the ABS balance?

If so how will this manifest itself on the track?

Bill Verburg

The # I recall as the ABS limit is <5% but the further from zero even under the limit the less effective it will be