steering rack replacement -- what about tie rods, etc?
11-02-2011, 05:25 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
steering rack replacement -- what about tie rods, etc?
My steering rack needs to be replaced (leaking). Thankfully, it became apparent just after my new MaxJax was operational. So, the car will soon be going on the lift.
I ordered a "short" steering rack from a reputiable rebuilder and am wondering whether to replace the tie rods or anything else while I'm in there. Thoughts from those with knowledge and experience?
TIA.
I ordered a "short" steering rack from a reputiable rebuilder and am wondering whether to replace the tie rods or anything else while I'm in there. Thoughts from those with knowledge and experience?
TIA.
11-02-2011, 07:00 PM
#2
Race Director
Did mine this summer on my Max Jax too. The MJ is not the easiest thing to do it on as you'll need to do a good bit of work in the pedal area and need the door open to get there. Position the car as far to the right as possible and I would seriously consider installing foam padding vertically on the MJ (something like the pre molded pipe insulators from Home Depot) to protect the door.
I would recommend pulling the seat first. I didn't but since you can't open the door (anywhere near) all the way it would make accessing the pedal area a little easier.
When I did mine I lay on my creeper looking up at the car, I don't think you'll want to raise the car high enough to put the bar in the first safety hole. I used my Esco jack stands under the arms of the lift (directly under the cars lift points) and lowered the car down on the stands. It works very well so you don't need the safety bars in (still very safe).
When you slide the coupler from the steering column off the upper part of the steering rack secure the coupler up on the SC shaft so it doesn't fall off when you drop the rack. As it says on the DIY there are only 4 possible ways to put the coupler back on and 3 of them are wrong and it can be REAL challenging finding that correct way. (When you look at the DIY you'll see what I mean).
I don't have the DIY in front of me but someone (Darin, Mark, Mike ??) recommended removing the tie rods from the steering rack directly and NOT at the tie rod ends (ball joints), that's what I did. A little tight but it works well.
If I think of anything else I'll add to it but the DIY has about everything you'll need to know. It's not a difficult project but it is a bit of a PITA (esp sweating your brains out trying to squeeze into the footwell area in the middle of summer). At least it's a lot cooler this time of year.
I would recommend pulling the seat first. I didn't but since you can't open the door (anywhere near) all the way it would make accessing the pedal area a little easier.
When I did mine I lay on my creeper looking up at the car, I don't think you'll want to raise the car high enough to put the bar in the first safety hole. I used my Esco jack stands under the arms of the lift (directly under the cars lift points) and lowered the car down on the stands. It works very well so you don't need the safety bars in (still very safe).
When you slide the coupler from the steering column off the upper part of the steering rack secure the coupler up on the SC shaft so it doesn't fall off when you drop the rack. As it says on the DIY there are only 4 possible ways to put the coupler back on and 3 of them are wrong and it can be REAL challenging finding that correct way. (When you look at the DIY you'll see what I mean).
I don't have the DIY in front of me but someone (Darin, Mark, Mike ??) recommended removing the tie rods from the steering rack directly and NOT at the tie rod ends (ball joints), that's what I did. A little tight but it works well.
If I think of anything else I'll add to it but the DIY has about everything you'll need to know. It's not a difficult project but it is a bit of a PITA (esp sweating your brains out trying to squeeze into the footwell area in the middle of summer). At least it's a lot cooler this time of year.
Last edited by Slow Guy; 11-02-2011 at 09:23 PM.
11-02-2011, 08:54 PM
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips, Bill. Couple of questions:
Did you replace tie rods or other parts and why yes or no?
How long did the job take?
Can you do the work in the pedal area before lifting the car (i.e., in place but without the MaxJax post in place.)?
Did you replace tie rods or other parts and why yes or no?
How long did the job take?
Can you do the work in the pedal area before lifting the car (i.e., in place but without the MaxJax post in place.)?
11-02-2011, 09:53 PM
#4
Race Director
2) job took about 4 - 6 hrs IIRC. Next one will take less of course.
3) no. you'll have to go back and forth between the footwell area and under the car. You can and should remove the floorboard parts and maybe even loosen the coupler first but you'll have to be able to get back to the footwell area.
11-04-2011, 06:10 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
11-04-2011, 06:44 PM
#6
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Or you can PIN them!! Its easier when the rack is out of the car.
I agree, the access under the dash is the most painfull part - you have to have multiple elbows to get in there. If I know its going to be a tough one, I remove the drivers seat, otherwise I tough it out. Being a fairly big boy, its cramped and I usually speak a lot of "French" as I work under there.
Otherwise is quite straight forward. use the proper flare nut wrenches on the lines going to the rack as well. Flushing is easy, just fill the reservoir, start the car, and turn the wheel lock to lock a few times - that should circulate the fluid.
You will have to look at the condition of the tie rod ball joints, and the inner rubber coupling before deciding to replace or not. Any slop - replace!!
Cheers,
Mike
I agree, the access under the dash is the most painfull part - you have to have multiple elbows to get in there. If I know its going to be a tough one, I remove the drivers seat, otherwise I tough it out. Being a fairly big boy, its cramped and I usually speak a lot of "French" as I work under there.
Otherwise is quite straight forward. use the proper flare nut wrenches on the lines going to the rack as well. Flushing is easy, just fill the reservoir, start the car, and turn the wheel lock to lock a few times - that should circulate the fluid.
You will have to look at the condition of the tie rod ball joints, and the inner rubber coupling before deciding to replace or not. Any slop - replace!!
Cheers,
Mike
11-04-2011, 07:12 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
My 95 cab has 101K miles on it. The rack stated leaking about 9 months ago so when I replaced it I did the rack, the tie rods, the ball joints, and my front bushings compliments of Chris Walrod. I thought the car handled well before I did the work. It was transformed after an alignment! Not sure how many miles you've got on your front end, but mine was more in need than I realized. good luck with which ever way you go!
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11-04-2011, 07:55 PM
#8
Race Director
