JeffDC

Great thread and great project. Thank you!

I'm diving into the breach that is the RS interior on Monday. My Appbiz carpet and door cards arrived today. So here is my question: If I'm able to fight my OCD, can't I leave much of the glue on the tub? Isn't it just going to get covered up by the new carpet?

Sorry if this has already been asked and answered. I've searched for this with no success.

Bill Verburg

It's worth putting a screen on the inner end of the ducts

Bill Verburg

If you are covering w/ carpet then sure leave the old glue residue it won't make a bit of difference

Cupcar

I agree with Bill, just remove the stuck on foam stuff so the new carpet doesn't come out lumpy. The inside of the car will still be sticky as hell while you are working, but I don't think it is a big problem because sticky areas will be going away as you install the new carpet.

Also, spraying a little Goof Off on the area of the carpet that is just separating from the sheet metal can be helpful some times to get the carpet to separate more easily.

Goof off also is good to remove the foam. Wear respirator or at least super ventilate your work area with fans.

I am cleaning out my glue completely so I can work in the car to remove the sunroof and other projects such as seat belt mounts, pedals, wiring etc. without the interior surfaces being sticky to make my life miserable. I am also OCD nuts.

V

Or you can do it the 9M way and dip the whole chassis in an electrolytic bath. That'll certainly get rid of any excess glue..

Cupcar

Not been too busy on car lately. Finished getting most of the glue out of car, still a bit to go.

One thing I did was rebuild my pedal assembly.

I fabricated an adjustable brake pedal using a Tilton pedal pad. The pedal pad is adjustable and I stiffened the pedal's mounting up a bit. Yes, the original pad is offset on the stem as well.

I eliminated the clutch helper spring assembly as was done in the Cup cars. This is supposed to make clutch re-engagement quicker since the clutch spring does not have to re-**** the helper spring on release. It does make the pedal harder to press though.



Of note in the rebuild is that Porsche has spacer rings pictured below the assembly here. These rings are available in 2 thicknesses and allow the brake pedal to be shimmed for minimal lateral slop.

My pedal had none of these spacers in it and it took 2 of them to limit the slop. They also provide a better bearing surface than the painted side of the main bracket.

These parts are not shown in the PET diagram, but are shown in the number list with a dash instead of a number next to them.

They are part numbers 900.234.524.00 0.2 mm shim and 900.234.525.00 0.3 mm shim. My pedals took 0.5 mm total shim to eliminate slop.

I also replaced the Teflon coated bearings, but they had minimal wear. Shim rings and bearings shown in picture below.



I installed my MOMO steering wheel and have the following notes:

The most difficult part to find was the one for the correct terminal to populate the #71 position of the steering column connector for the horn ground. I finally found it in the 996 PET, part number is shown on the bag below.



I fabricated a pigtail by cutting off the horn wires from the clock spring. I could not find a way to release the pins from the plug housing, I think they are meant to stay and are tamper proof. So cutting the wires was the only option I found.



I added the terminal for #71 and shrink wrapped it. The correct tool helps, but I still had to crimp with pliers since the connector is for larger gauge wire.



The wire goes here in the right hand side steering column plug at position #71



After installation of the wire and terminal it looks like this, ready to close the door:



Pig tail connected and ready to tie wrap to main harness:



I removed the cruise control lever from my switch assembly, it clips off easily. Then the RS clam shell assembly fits over a 2 lever switch. I changed the logo on the right lever to eliminate headlight washer markings.

Also note the L shaped ground piece that populates pin #71 of switch side of horn ground circuit.

Cupcar

After removing the carpet and glue, I noted in looking at the center console's plastic body that it is made to modify for fitting into all the 911 variants either airbag, no airbag, RS Coupe, Cabriolet or Standard Coupe.

The airbag configuration has a dome (see below) attached to the top of the console body and a slot removed to allow fitment around the airbag dash brace. The dome is simply attached with studs and clips easily removed.

The RS style with no airbag does not have the dome and has lamps installed in the forward portion. There are plastic knock outs for these lamps that I removed.



Since I removed the airbag dash, after I removed the dome I cut a piece of ABS plastic to patch the slot in the console body and glued it in.



Carpeted with lamps installed ready to go in the car some day.

Cupcar

I finally got my SuperCup struts from Bilstein Germany. It took some months. The front struts are a combination of 993 Supercup, H&R springs and spring divider, a Bilstein spring perch and custom spacers. The rear coilovers are 993 Supercup, GT3 Cup, 993 RS, and 964 RSR parts.

Cupcar

I also went nuts and bought an aluminum hood for the car. The steel hood weighs 33.8 pounds and the aluminum hood weighs 14.4 pounds.



I had some Titanium hinges that I used to mount the hood, these are 3.2 pounds lighter than the steel hinges and struts.

Bill Verburg

Nice!

ToSi

wow, this thread just keeps getting better.

Thanks for posting the horn wiring connector p/n's.

Curious, is the hood still available or was it a squirreled away / NOS item?

Cupcar#12

i recognize those hinges good job

Benton

This thread is awesome! Great build; I can't wait to see the finished project.

Kein_Ersatz

great thread!

juankimalo

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