New project for me, yet another 993 RS Clone for you :-(
04-26-2012, 07:48 PM
#166
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Because the chassis is so nice, I was getting shy of aborting my car into a hot rod, then and a day in my buddies new RS 4.0 made me realize one can have too much power on the street.
Then CA smog would involve switching drive trains for smog test every 2 years...So I nixed the idea and fell in favor of keeping my car air-cooled, less powerful and CA smoggable.
Actually, just drove my car the other day and realized that I dont need the bigger cam right away.
06-02-2012, 04:52 AM
#169
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Sorry, I have had some other irons in the fire of late.
I miss working on the car, but this project is to take a while by design. I realized long ago for me the pleasure is about the planning, sourcing parts for and building the car rather than having it finished.
I did take delivery of a 3.6 liter version of one of these engine removal tools from Wilding Engineering. http://wildingeng.com/MainWEiSite.htm
They custom made one for me that attaches to my good old Harbor Freight aluminum jack thereby deleting the stud show in picture below. The 3.6 liter version has arms that cradle the exhaust system for better balance as well as some other changes for balance. The 2.0 to 3.2 version is pictured below:
Engine and trans will be out of car and rear suspension going in the end of this month.
I miss working on the car, but this project is to take a while by design. I realized long ago for me the pleasure is about the planning, sourcing parts for and building the car rather than having it finished.
I did take delivery of a 3.6 liter version of one of these engine removal tools from Wilding Engineering. http://wildingeng.com/MainWEiSite.htm
They custom made one for me that attaches to my good old Harbor Freight aluminum jack thereby deleting the stud show in picture below. The 3.6 liter version has arms that cradle the exhaust system for better balance as well as some other changes for balance. The 2.0 to 3.2 version is pictured below:
Engine and trans will be out of car and rear suspension going in the end of this month.
06-11-2012, 11:22 PM
#170
Thanks for the update, every post is a learning opportunity.
FYI & for others following along - the handle bolt spacing on the appbiz panels is slightly wider than that of the OEM 993RS handles. Downsizing to an M5 machine screw / rivnut should provide enough wiggle room to let everything fit with minor clearancing. Measure twice, drill once!
No issues if using the appbiz handles.
On another note, I finally got my door panels solved. I bought the panels from Appbiz, but decided to go with the original RS straps and handles from Porsche. Expensive, more for these than the whole Appbiz panel kit, but I like them. The Appbiz stuff is OK and a great bang for the buck for sure. The panels themselves are particularly nice. The RS handle is a foam casting with a silver insert. I plan to mount with regular rivet nuts and the 10 mm spacer under the handle that Porsche uses rather than the jack nut and machine screw Appbiz uses. The Porsche strap is made of what feels like Polyester, it is softer. The Porsche strap is retained by a pin and clip as shown below rather than a bolt and the pin is in double shear rather than single shear like the Appbiz bolt. The Appbiz trim hardware around the handle and strap was sourced from Porsche and I will use that.
No issues if using the appbiz handles.
06-14-2012, 08:51 AM
#171
New guy here. This looks like it's going to turn out great. The concept is similar to my M3, and close to what I would like to do with my next car, if it turns out to be a 993.
06-28-2012, 02:19 PM
#173
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the update, every post is a learning opportunity.
FYI & for others following along - the handle bolt spacing on the appbiz panels is slightly wider than that of the OEM 993RS handles. Downsizing to an M5 machine screw / rivnut should provide enough wiggle room to let everything fit with minor clearancing. Measure twice, drill once!
No issues if using the appbiz handles.
FYI & for others following along - the handle bolt spacing on the appbiz panels is slightly wider than that of the OEM 993RS handles. Downsizing to an M5 machine screw / rivnut should provide enough wiggle room to let everything fit with minor clearancing. Measure twice, drill once!
No issues if using the appbiz handles.
Differences from normal C2 panel are noted.
I plan to leave in the side door beam but remove the spot welded bracket for the normal C2 door handle, as well as install 6 mm Rivnuts as the factory did in the positions shown for the factory RS door handle.
I figure the bezel around the handle's bases will cover the error of the Appbiz panel's in location for these screws.
06-28-2012, 08:16 PM
#175
Here's a photo of my door showing where the handles mount w/ the appbiz panels. Only the rear hole has been drilled (to the right of pickup magnet). Looks like the appbiz panels want to put the handle ~1" lower than the RS door in your photo:
Here's the same hole w/ 5mm rivnut installed. In my '96 doors, there's another reinforcing layer in line w/ the rivnut. Is this part of the bracket you mention removing?
Here's the same hole w/ 5mm rivnut installed. In my '96 doors, there's another reinforcing layer in line w/ the rivnut. Is this part of the bracket you mention removing?
07-04-2012, 04:12 PM
#177
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Engine out.
What a mess: a vacuum line not connected so I bet resonance flap didn't work, someone didn't know how to unclip wiring harness from the relay box and destroyed relay box connector frame, right side connection box frame destroyed in similar manner, clips missing from air cleaner to mass flow sensor, mass flow sensor clamp not tighted so MAF simply fell out when air cleaner removed, washers missing everywhere, wiring clips not put back in place, hoses to power steering not in clips dangling free, bolts, nuts and washers free in engine compartment, botched wiring repairs, fuel line so tight I could not undo it while other fasteners were loose, broken wiring connectors from abuse, cat. heat shield bolts gone, etc.
Is it too much to ask of whoever worked on the engine before to be a little bit careful and respectful of the hardware? Is a torque wrench too much to expect?
I have only driven car 5 miles since I bought it and have no records of service. I submitted an oil analysis to Blackstone labs to figure what is going on there.
Plan is to clean, powder coat painted parts, replace all intake seals to eliminate any vacuum leaks, new plug wiring, plugs, rotors and caps, clean and balance fuel injectors, fix cam box oil leaks, re-time cams, fit LWF and install engine and drive the car for a bit to see where suspension is at before a complete rebuild with GT3 bottom end. If engine looks too tired, I may just go ahead an do the whole shebang now.
Before I do any engine work though, I plan on finishing the engine compartment and suspension. Too much apart right now in my shop. Bilstein is to have my re-valve done next week and the machine work for my suspension cradle mounts should be done then as well (I designed my own cradle mounts).
Interesting. Wow, I didn't expect the stock engine mounts to be such boat anchors, throwing these in the trash will make my day.
They weigh 1216 grams while the solid mounts weigh only 276 grams.
Over 4 more pounds off very back of car gives me a polar moment
What a mess: a vacuum line not connected so I bet resonance flap didn't work, someone didn't know how to unclip wiring harness from the relay box and destroyed relay box connector frame, right side connection box frame destroyed in similar manner, clips missing from air cleaner to mass flow sensor, mass flow sensor clamp not tighted so MAF simply fell out when air cleaner removed, washers missing everywhere, wiring clips not put back in place, hoses to power steering not in clips dangling free, bolts, nuts and washers free in engine compartment, botched wiring repairs, fuel line so tight I could not undo it while other fasteners were loose, broken wiring connectors from abuse, cat. heat shield bolts gone, etc.
Is it too much to ask of whoever worked on the engine before to be a little bit careful and respectful of the hardware? Is a torque wrench too much to expect?
I have only driven car 5 miles since I bought it and have no records of service. I submitted an oil analysis to Blackstone labs to figure what is going on there.
Plan is to clean, powder coat painted parts, replace all intake seals to eliminate any vacuum leaks, new plug wiring, plugs, rotors and caps, clean and balance fuel injectors, fix cam box oil leaks, re-time cams, fit LWF and install engine and drive the car for a bit to see where suspension is at before a complete rebuild with GT3 bottom end. If engine looks too tired, I may just go ahead an do the whole shebang now.
Before I do any engine work though, I plan on finishing the engine compartment and suspension. Too much apart right now in my shop. Bilstein is to have my re-valve done next week and the machine work for my suspension cradle mounts should be done then as well (I designed my own cradle mounts).
Interesting. Wow, I didn't expect the stock engine mounts to be such boat anchors, throwing these in the trash will make my day.
They weigh 1216 grams while the solid mounts weigh only 276 grams.
Over 4 more pounds off very back of car gives me a polar moment
07-24-2012, 12:59 PM
#178
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here's a photo of my door showing where the handles mount w/ the appbiz panels. Only the rear hole has been drilled (to the right of pickup magnet). Looks like the appbiz panels want to put the handle ~1" lower than the RS door in your photo:
Here's the same hole w/ 5mm rivnut installed. In my '96 doors, there's another reinforcing layer in line w/ the rivnut. Is this part of the bracket you mention removing?
Here's the same hole w/ 5mm rivnut installed. In my '96 doors, there's another reinforcing layer in line w/ the rivnut. Is this part of the bracket you mention removing?
The door handle bracket I mention is circled in the picture above. Also compare to RS door picture of mine.
It actually looks to me that Appbiz puts the handle about the right height to me.
09-01-2012, 07:54 PM
#179
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Little update. Just put in the rear suspension after spending a lot of time cleaning under car and in engine compartment.
I had to rebuild both circuit board boxes due to the malpractice of some technician along the way.
Oil tank is out and I am replacing all grommets, seals etc. and cleaning all parts to be saved.
Of note is I designed and had made a set of rear cradle mounts since I didn't like the stuff for sale on the aftermarket.
These have spherical washer sets top and bottom to duplicate the bit of float the rubber had so the bolts have a pure axial draw on them with no bending moment after torquing. They raise the subframe 10 mm with no tilt.
Kit laid out on floor with new bolts.
Installed in frame with washer set on top
Installed with top and bottom spherical washer sets showing
All RSR monoballs with Supercup coilovers I put together from various parts
RS stab bar with RSR bushings.
I like the simplicity of no power steering lines and oil tank in this corner of the engine bay.
I had to rebuild both circuit board boxes due to the malpractice of some technician along the way.
Oil tank is out and I am replacing all grommets, seals etc. and cleaning all parts to be saved.
Of note is I designed and had made a set of rear cradle mounts since I didn't like the stuff for sale on the aftermarket.
These have spherical washer sets top and bottom to duplicate the bit of float the rubber had so the bolts have a pure axial draw on them with no bending moment after torquing. They raise the subframe 10 mm with no tilt.
Kit laid out on floor with new bolts.
Installed in frame with washer set on top
Installed with top and bottom spherical washer sets showing
All RSR monoballs with Supercup coilovers I put together from various parts
RS stab bar with RSR bushings.
I like the simplicity of no power steering lines and oil tank in this corner of the engine bay.
09-01-2012, 08:06 PM
#180
As always nice work, the subframe mounts are impressive
You will be very pleased w/ the suspension, mine + the aero change has been worth 3-5 sec out of 67sec laps at LRP
I know you are planning on using the 964 Cup front brake backing up top, the 993RS backing plate is a lighter alternative to the stock for the lower brake backing if you use any.
No p/s? or are you going w/ electric?
My shoulders are still sore after a track day even when up up on the wheel
You will be very pleased w/ the suspension, mine + the aero change has been worth 3-5 sec out of 67sec laps at LRP
I know you are planning on using the 964 Cup front brake backing up top, the 993RS backing plate is a lighter alternative to the stock for the lower brake backing if you use any.
No p/s? or are you going w/ electric?
My shoulders are still sore after a track day even when up up on the wheel