jackal2513

Does anyone run these (or the tarrett equivalents). I am wondering if they detrimentally affect road manners or harshness at all ?

I need a new lower toe arm and it struck me that I could sell my existing one and for the same money get a whole new set of adjustable rennlines.

Bill Verburg

I have the Tarrets they tighten up the rear immensely and are absolute musts for track use. For the street it will depend, on smooth roads they are a non issue, on cratered secondaries they contribute immensely to deteriorated ride quality.

Another issue is longevity, I had had one set that only lasted a season, the current set has boots on the monoballs, the verdict is still out on these

ninjabones

Agree with Bill on the questionable longevity of the tarret bits. Mine were toast after one season (similar experience with one of my friends). Several of my local 993 crew (4 of us) have ERP links without any failures. I have had mine for two full race seasons. I would recommend going with the ERP parts despite the added cost.

Michael S.

How do the ERP/Tarret/Rennline links compare to installing the RS hardenss bushings in the original control arms? My car is 70-80% street... the rest is DE stuff. But, I want a tight handling car. I am thinking that solid subframe mounts and RS hardness bushings will satisfy my requirements better than the hard links... Am I on the right track, or should I go ERP from the start?

Thanks guys... I love this place!

JMR

If you want solid subframe mounts, I have a set of new ones with tilt from Rennline.

http://www.rennline.com/Rennline-Sol...5.XX/SB656676/

Will sell for $350 shipped.

I bought them and never installed them.

I will also have a full set (6) of ERP arms off my car soon. I am going back stock. They have about 8 hours of track time on them and maybe 150 street miles. I haven't thought about pricing yet.

PM Me

Flying Finn

PM sent.

Bill Verburg

RS hardness on all the arms w/ solid subframe is a great street track/compromise, subbing in monoball toe links is icing on the cake for track use as would monoballs on the other arms. the issue w/ monoballs is always going to be longevity so JMO, hard rubber except monoball toe link is the way to go, of course monoball shock top and solid subframe too.

just a note, the RS used the same toe links as a normal so to get hard rubber there you need to use Elephant's

Michael S.

Bill,

Thanks for the info... I've read your post(s) and was already planning on going with the Elephant bushings... Combined with a subframe bushing kit, I think I'll get rid of 90% of the rear loosness, whilst keeping a streetable car. I will likely be picking your brain sometime in the future for direction.

Thanks again!

Mark in Baltimore

Anyone considering PCA club racing should know that the tilt kits are not legal in the stock or prepared classes.

berni29

Hi There Michael

I have the ER sport bushings on the rear of my 993. Nice product. The front bushes are excellent as well. The standard toe arms have less rubber than the other bushes on the rear arms so are stiff as standard. Probably why the RS part is the same. I already have the RS engine mounts and want to do the solid sides next. The engine is out at the moment so now is a good time I guess.

As things stand I have not noticed much more NVH at the rear at all.

Berni

Bill Verburg

AFAIK know one uses a tilt kit on N/A 993s, there are other reasons not not use a tilt kit.

Mark in Baltimore

Not sure exactly why a tilt kit is beneficial, but Chris Cervelli suggested it for my car, along with a few other tweaks, and forgot that it wasn't PCA CR legal in my class.

Michael S.

I read in someone's post recently that the only way they could get the Kinematic toe into spec at lowered ride height was with the tilt kit installed... Regardless, I don't plan on actually racing my 993... only playing in a few DEs each year. Can't afford a race obsession right now!

Bill Verburg

Most of us tracking these cars do everything we can to minimize or eliminate KT. flat solid sides are fine and have no impact in this area, they do move the subframe up into the chassis, which on a lowered car restores the geometry, think of it like the RS wheel carriers and tierods used in front which restore geometry on lowered cars, the tilts are used to add anti squat, mostly used on the high hp turbos. W/ a tilt kit there is an issue bolting the stock forward cross member to the car.

Michael S.

So did I just purchase a kit that I can't use, or can I just not install some of the parts and get the solid mounts from the tilt kit?