Price for Door Seals
#17
Burning Brakes
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I purchased a "911" seal for the drivers door (coupe) from a rennlister for $40 a while ago and I can say for a fact that the 911 part # seal works but it is thicker(round) where the 993 is flat.
The door needs an extra shove to close it vs. the 993 part.
No way I would give $500+ for the 993 seals.
The door needs an extra shove to close it vs. the 993 part.
No way I would give $500+ for the 993 seals.
#18
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When you get your new door seals installed .. be careful to ensure the door is closed tight. I put a new seal on the drivers side and one time I missed the fact that door wasn't fully closed. Now I have a dead battery to deal with.
#20
Drifting
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think my95-98 cab seal is around $570 (@pelican) but it's all one piece, from windshield to (i think) both doors. so maybe not so bad. one stealer was listing them for 7something...
group buy anyone?
I may be due for a new one, no leak or tears; just from compression.
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#22
Race Director
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When I replaced the one in my last cab it was because the seal had torn on the section between the windshield upper frame and the conv. top. The section around the doors wasn't in a lot better condition but the top seal was the worst section.
It's recommended you do a dry fit and (chalk) mark the seal in a few sections before you do the final install with weatherstrip adhesive.
By far the worst part is getting the old weatherstrip adhesive off. I used 3M Adhesive Remover (NAPA has it) but do that in a well ventilated area, it will kill a few brain cells.
#27
Race Director
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Just pull out the old seal, clean out the old weatherstrip adhesive (the hard part) and put the new one in. I use 3M Adhesive Remover, plastic putty knife and lots of HD paper towels or old rags to get the old stuff off.
Not hard at all, just a PITA and time consuming.
#28
Drifting
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The sill itself does NOT need to come off. You don't need to take the plastic "threshold ?" (the part that covers the first 2 - 3 in of carpet at the door) either but it's so easy, it just pry's up, that I always take it off. Held on by pinch clips, goes back on easily.
Just pull out the old seal, clean out the old weatherstrip adhesive (the hard part) and put the new one in. I use 3M Adhesive Remover, plastic putty knife and lots of HD paper towels or old rags to get the old stuff off.
Not hard at all, just a PITA and time consuming.
Just pull out the old seal, clean out the old weatherstrip adhesive (the hard part) and put the new one in. I use 3M Adhesive Remover, plastic putty knife and lots of HD paper towels or old rags to get the old stuff off.
Not hard at all, just a PITA and time consuming.
#30
Race Director
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I used a thin bead of 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive, pretty much the same stuff they use from the factory. It comes in both yellow and black, I use black.
All auto parts stores will have it (or another brand of Weatherstrip Adhesive like Permatex or Dow). I get the adhesive remover at NAPA in the bondo/bodywork section.
All auto parts stores will have it (or another brand of Weatherstrip Adhesive like Permatex or Dow). I get the adhesive remover at NAPA in the bondo/bodywork section.