993 C4S brake booster problem
#16
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ok, so I have the same problem. I took it down to the shop, and they found that it was a bad switch inside the pump assembly. I'll take a picture when I get it back from the shop with the part number.
-Alex
-Alex
#18
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Ok....I couldn't do anything better!!!
My P has gone to PC to get the problem fixed before she goes to sleep for the winter.....
I really thanks verybody helped me in the search,but my heart was crying for her filling sick!!!
A good pre-winter service(oil/belts,filters ecc) will keet it well!
Let you know
cheers
My P has gone to PC to get the problem fixed before she goes to sleep for the winter.....
I really thanks verybody helped me in the search,but my heart was crying for her filling sick!!!
A good pre-winter service(oil/belts,filters ecc) will keet it well!
Let you know
cheers
#19
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I just got back my P from the PC after the service and the breakes boster prob.....
guess what....it was this!!!!!
pressure sensor
only 295,78 €....plus the installation.
not cheap,but good to know it wasn't the pump!!
One thing though.....
I had a complete brake flush and hyd fluid change,and now the pedal seems spongie,way less responsive than before.....is there any issue in your opinion?(wrong flush procedure,wrong fluid,wrond sensor installation,etc
I don't like the new feeling and I already told the PC guy,he said to me have few kms in it than come back...and here I'm
guess what....it was this!!!!!
pressure sensor
only 295,78 €....plus the installation.
not cheap,but good to know it wasn't the pump!!
One thing though.....
I had a complete brake flush and hyd fluid change,and now the pedal seems spongie,way less responsive than before.....is there any issue in your opinion?(wrong flush procedure,wrong fluid,wrond sensor installation,etc
I don't like the new feeling and I already told the PC guy,he said to me have few kms in it than come back...and here I'm
Last edited by 01coccobet; 04-05-2014 at 07:06 AM.
#20
where is that pressure sensor located?
spongie pedal, might be wrong procedure.
check out post #5 from by Droops83,
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...inder-wow.html
spongie pedal, might be wrong procedure.
check out post #5 from by Droops83,
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...inder-wow.html
#22
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The part is in the very front of the car,in the frunk,over the hyd pump.
It's easily seen if you remove the black plastic cover where the hood latches.
I'll take the car back today to the PC and see what happens!!
It's easily seen if you remove the black plastic cover where the hood latches.
I'll take the car back today to the PC and see what happens!!
#24
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awfang from SBA?!?
I lived 1 year in Santa Barbara in 1996-97....
got my pilot licences there.
Lived in Goleta too.
Is Hamburger habit still there?
such a nice place.
And Ca' Dario italian restaurant?I worked for them a while!
cheers
I lived 1 year in Santa Barbara in 1996-97....
got my pilot licences there.
Lived in Goleta too.
Is Hamburger habit still there?
such a nice place.
And Ca' Dario italian restaurant?I worked for them a while!
cheers
#28
thanks for bringing this issue up 01coccobet, and for finding an answer.
I had my brake light come on saturday, about 1.5 miles to get off the track and 3 or 4 pedals later I had zero braking left. not much pressure left after the pump stops running.
so there we are checking fuses and testing relays and suddenly I remember this thread. saved me a bunch of time trying to figure out the problem.
couple notes on replacing the pressure sensor.
251 bucks from sunset.
manual says to replace o-ring if necessary so I ordered one, turns out the sensor comes with the o-ring in place.
manual says to replace the relay too.
remove the battery to create space to work.
remove the entire pump assembly from the car, there is only one bolt and pin holding it in place. the torque for the sensor is listed at 25Nm but I needed it in a soft vise to break loose the sensor from the assembly.
have some of those vacuum line caps handy to plug the brake lines.
after you get things back together use the method for bleeding the accumulator before powering up the pump. lots of air will get in the line between pump and accumulator, if you pressurize this it could be messy.
so, everything back together, pump not connected, key on, put a bleeder hose on the loosened accumulator bleed valve and then hook up the pump. you will just be pumping fluid from the reservoir through the pump and accumulator into a catch can but it will include lots of air. once no more bubbles close the accumulator valve and bleed the rest as normal.
I had my brake light come on saturday, about 1.5 miles to get off the track and 3 or 4 pedals later I had zero braking left. not much pressure left after the pump stops running.
so there we are checking fuses and testing relays and suddenly I remember this thread. saved me a bunch of time trying to figure out the problem.
couple notes on replacing the pressure sensor.
251 bucks from sunset.
manual says to replace o-ring if necessary so I ordered one, turns out the sensor comes with the o-ring in place.
manual says to replace the relay too.
remove the battery to create space to work.
remove the entire pump assembly from the car, there is only one bolt and pin holding it in place. the torque for the sensor is listed at 25Nm but I needed it in a soft vise to break loose the sensor from the assembly.
have some of those vacuum line caps handy to plug the brake lines.
after you get things back together use the method for bleeding the accumulator before powering up the pump. lots of air will get in the line between pump and accumulator, if you pressurize this it could be messy.
so, everything back together, pump not connected, key on, put a bleeder hose on the loosened accumulator bleed valve and then hook up the pump. you will just be pumping fluid from the reservoir through the pump and accumulator into a catch can but it will include lots of air. once no more bubbles close the accumulator valve and bleed the rest as normal.