removing rear suspension
09-09-2011, 12:48 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
It took me 4-plus hours to get that one seized M6 x 55 bolt out of the plastic air deflector shield on the right control arm.
Not a single missed hammer blow (of hundreds) to the control arm and a few more tricks on top of that.
Seized Fastener - Patience is a virtue!.
09-09-2011, 03:41 PM
#34
Racer
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your friends
stock
after brake fluid
after alubright and a then quick coarse wire wool scrub
after coarse wire wool with autosol and then a fine wire wool treatment and then a final buff
see that P clip on the oil pipe
its rusty ! and will get zinc dichromide plated :grin:
oil pipe nice and clean now
see that clip ... nasty and dirty .... something we all need to look at I fear
as it by magic
and popped back in place .... it holds the abs lead away from the fuel lines high up above the gearbox to stop any rubbing
heater flaps
sorted, with a nice patina
after a 24 hour soap soak ... now off to be degreased and scrubbed
getting somewhere .... abs and brake lines and HT leads and fuel lines all extensively 303'd !
making a start on the big thick black engine and box degrease
09-12-2011, 04:31 PM
#36
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cleaning the RHS
some rust in the rear wing !
wiggling out the crossmember
BINGO ! ... and off to the blasters/lacquerers
dessicator
condenser
condenser bracket cleaned, polished and waxed ready for re-insertion
09-13-2011, 02:32 PM
#38
Race Car
Holy Crap.......
AS for the Rennline bushes, I would not be using the tilt kit (silver spacers) These are really designed for use in the high HP turbo cars and GT2's. You will get no benefit of putting them in your car and they lower the suspension in the chassis subsequently raising the ride height.
AS for the Rennline bushes, I would not be using the tilt kit (silver spacers) These are really designed for use in the high HP turbo cars and GT2's. You will get no benefit of putting them in your car and they lower the suspension in the chassis subsequently raising the ride height.
09-13-2011, 02:53 PM
#40
Race Car
Rennline supplies their kit with the extra pieces either way.
You may need to notch out the body a little when putting it in place, I believe Bill Verberg had to when he did his kit (there is a thread on it somewhere).
You may need to notch out the body a little when putting it in place, I believe Bill Verberg had to when he did his kit (there is a thread on it somewhere).
09-13-2011, 02:58 PM
#41
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on rennlines site it shows that for the tilt kit install there are lots more front tilt blocks that you have which should be fitted:
http://www.rennline.com/pdf/sb656676install.pdf
I don't have these in my kit as its the regular kit and was a lower price. I just have a single silver spacer for each bush.
http://www.rennline.com/pdf/sb656676install.pdf
I don't have these in my kit as its the regular kit and was a lower price. I just have a single silver spacer for each bush.
09-13-2011, 05:04 PM
#43
A buddy bought one of the first Rennline kits and pointed that out to them, they immediately fixed the problem, I assume all subsequent kits will include the fix it is just a slightly thicker body. You can tell it's ok if there is a slight gap between the body and the aluminum pillow.
09-14-2011, 12:19 PM
#45
I put the ERP subframe mounts in place, they are too thin and the pinch weld is against the subframe.
I'd rather not grind on the pinch weld so I called rennline, those silver pieces are the spacers(part of the tilt kit) to keep the body away from the subframe.
I'd rather not grind on the pinch weld so I called rennline, those silver pieces are the spacers(part of the tilt kit) to keep the body away from the subframe.