Edward

You're welcome! All in hope that others can avoid potetnial pitfalls

And yes, since I plan to continue using the motive "wet" as designed, I agree it's both easy and prudent to put a trasher beach towel around the areas as an easy measure against fluid carnage

Edward

race911

The owner of the company is a track friend of mine. I urge you to contact him.

motive

Hi All,

I was told by one of the rennlist members that there was a discussion on the Motive Bleeder. As one of the owners I'd like to address a few points.

1) Checking/Replacing the hose - we recommend replacement of the hose every 3-4 years. When my partner and I bought the company 3 years ago one of things we did was source just about all Chinese made parts into the US. The hose was one of those parts that were previously sourced from China and now is sourced from a manufacturer in the USA. The specs on the newer hose are better than the old hose but as it's only been in use for 3 years we still recommend replacing it every 3-4 years. Cleaning the unit including the hose after use will prolong the life. Brake fluid when it combines with moisture and then is allowed to dry in the hose isn't good for the hose life. We sell replacement hose for about the same price as the hose sold at Home Depot - we include replacement clamps with the hose.

2) Cleaning the unit - it can be pretty simply done by using a few ounces of denatured alcohol. Drain the unit of brake fluid, pour in the denatured alcohol, swirl it around and pump it out the hose. Allow to air dry - the denatured alcohol doesn't leave any residue and nicely cleans the unit.

3)Regarding "wtfruit was motive thinking when they used Oetiker clamps". Well the same thing BMW and Porsche was thinking ;-). There are a few issues with using worm drive clamps. a)worm gear hose clamps do not provide even pressure as a stepless oetiker clamp. You can actually tear and crimp a hose if you're not careful using a worm gear clamp. b) when my guys are using 600-800 clamps a day you can imagine that would result in repetitive motion injuries screwing on worm clamps, c) finally it is less expensive to use the oetiker clamps and we try to keep costs down while making a quality product. They do have the disadvantage of having to destroy them when being replaced. They are easily removed if you know the trick. If you click on this link it will show a picture of a clamp

http://www.oetiker.com/content.asp?l=4&idNavig=25

where you see the rectangular cut out - if you stick a thin screwdriver or knife edge under the lip and lift it up carefully (don't stab yourself in the palm) you can loosen the clamp and pull it apart.

4) Using the unit dry - obviously it works fine with the caveats mentioned regarding allowing the m/c to drain

5) It is always a good idea as others have mentioned to have some towels around your m/c especially in a 911 type car. And always keep some clean water handy - brake fluid spills will not cause damage if immediately flushed with water.

6) Not sure where the urban legend that the Bav Auto bleeder is made by Motive came from. IT IS NOT. It is identical to a unit I've seen peddled by a Chinese manufacturer at SEMA. I don't know where Bav Auto has theirs made - but it's not by Motive.

7) I would also recommend that when someone has a problem with a product they contact the manufacturer directly as most of us are actually proud of our products and always looking to keep our customers happy.

If the original poster Edward wants to email me at mromani@motiveproducts.com with his shipping address we'll send him a quart of ATE Type 200.

If anyone has any questions feel free to email me - I don't have the time to monitor a forum.

Best regards and enjoy your days at the track.

Marco

Marc Shaw

I use my Motive dry but added quick-connects to the hose so I don't have to re-pressurize the canister each time.

Marc

aj986s

Thanks to Motive for chiming in. Its nice to see a manufacturer responding to its customers!

FWIW, I will say that I use the Motive dry for most of my bleeding jobs, which are flushing some fluid from each of the calipers before a track event. My approach is that if I bleed the calipers each month or so, the system is being entirely flushed once or more during the course of the year. When doing a caliper bleed, I generally refill the reservoir, and repressurize the Motive, after each caliper.

However, if I'm tackling a total brake system flush, I'll use the Motive wet in order to keep moving as I go through about 2 bottles of new fluid. Then I'll do a proper cleanup with alchohol of the Motive afterwards.

Also, I added some air hose fittings so that I can now easily change between the different caps I need to use for the various cars. But never thought about the aspect of disconnecting while keeping some pressure in the Motive bottle. Thanks Marc!

Texas993

I have been meaning to but a motive bleeder lately as I need to flush the brakes this fall. I am very impressed with Marco's response. No doubt I will get one now.

DanL993

+1 I used it last year on the brakes and slave cylinder using the wet method and liked that a lot--also flushed and cleaned the bleeder completely. I'm also impressed with Marco's very helpful response. I think I'll use the wet and place towels, as well as changing the hose regularly. Given I only bleed brakes every two years, I guess I change the hose and clamps each time.

IXLR8

Good idea, Marc!

For anyone thinking about this mod, note that there are two types of quick-connects; sealing and non-sealing.

I take it you used a sealing type quick-connect on the hose of the Motive Power unit and a non-sealing type on the hose attached to the cap?

I'll order some. What is the ID of the hose?

Meatball964

Interesting timing of this thread as I just ordered one & await shipment. Judging by the responses, the dry method seems to be the popular route. Any link to the quick disconnects ?

aj986s

I was able to use regular air hose fittings.

IXLR8

Colder Products Company. Their products are also available from McMaster-Carr.

I was thinking items:

APLCD17005
5/16 Hose Barb Valved In-Line Coupling Body

PLC22005
5/16 Hose Barb Non-Valved In-Line Coupling Insert

The above are for a hose ID of 5/16".

Marc Shaw

I just went to my local Princess Auto (Canadian hardware store) and got brass sealing connectors like you'd use for tools off an air compressor and hose clamps.

I'll post a picture later onceI get home but it is pretty easy.

Marc

Edward

Hi Ken,

Thanks for that ...man what a place eh?!!!

For the record, I have used this very simple device for years and have always found it invaluable in its ease of use and time-saving qualities, save this one incident. And as I said, I will continue to use it "wet" because it is faster.

And to Marco,
Thank you for coming onto the forum ...I appreciate your time and desire to speak to the point. Please forgive the "what the fruit" comment ...that was, ahem, spoken in frustration (and big, honkin mess). If I were completely dissatisfied, I wouldn't have gone to the trouble of making it work again ...hahaha ...needless to say I am "back" with ya. I will be emailing you in time ...thanks!!

Edward

Slow Guy

I could have sworn I was told by the BavAuto folks it was made esp. for them by the Motive folks. I'm glad he set the record straight, thanks.

Ed Hughes

FWIW, I love my Speedbleeders.