Upper Rocker Covers
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From: Canada & the Alps
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Joined: May 2004
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From: London England UK
Hi Alex
Removed the three hex studs above the lower rocker covers and the 10mm bolt behind the muffler, I can't seem to even get access to the two further 10mm bolts holding the forward section near cylinder 3, they seem to be obstructed well and truly by the suspension carrier mounts
Thanks Alex
Ash
Removed the three hex studs above the lower rocker covers and the 10mm bolt behind the muffler, I can't seem to even get access to the two further 10mm bolts holding the forward section near cylinder 3, they seem to be obstructed well and truly by the suspension carrier mounts
Thanks Alex
Ash
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From: Canada & the Alps
Just wait till you try getting those forward M6 fasteners back in.
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From: Vancouver, BC
A few tricks:
Take an allen key and grind it down so its short/stubby if its an hex bolt. The should give you a tool to get in there.
If its the 10 mm bolts, you might need a stubby or a gearwrench type wrench. I have a full array of stubbies, longs, gear-wrenches, twisted and offsets to get at all the little bolts.
The brake lines can be much worse...I hoped you cleaned the connections and started to soak it in a nut releaser?
You will need a good set of flare nut wrenches, or if you are going to sacrifice the line, you can cut it and use a socket. Its all a calculated risk. Be very careful not to twist the hard lines, they do not like to be twisted and can kink easily. You do this by holding the hard line stable with one wrench and use the other on the rubber side of the line to rotate. I try to get the wrenches very close to each other, so you as squeezing them together like a pair of scissors. That seems to give the maximum torque with the smallest twist.
BTW, why are you replacing brake lines?
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
Take an allen key and grind it down so its short/stubby if its an hex bolt. The should give you a tool to get in there.
If its the 10 mm bolts, you might need a stubby or a gearwrench type wrench. I have a full array of stubbies, longs, gear-wrenches, twisted and offsets to get at all the little bolts.
The brake lines can be much worse...I hoped you cleaned the connections and started to soak it in a nut releaser?
You will need a good set of flare nut wrenches, or if you are going to sacrifice the line, you can cut it and use a socket. Its all a calculated risk. Be very careful not to twist the hard lines, they do not like to be twisted and can kink easily. You do this by holding the hard line stable with one wrench and use the other on the rubber side of the line to rotate. I try to get the wrenches very close to each other, so you as squeezing them together like a pair of scissors. That seems to give the maximum torque with the smallest twist.
BTW, why are you replacing brake lines?
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
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Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 224
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From: London England UK
Hi Mike
My brake pedal is a little soft and the rubber lines are looking a bit worse for wear to say the least.
The calipers have been sent off for refurbishment and the report has come back favourably.
The hard lines on the calipers were galvanically corroded onto the nuts so I had to cut them, I'm guessing I'll have the same problem on the rubber hose coupling point on the chassis and I mayhave to go all the way back to the splitter manifold.
Don't tell me off, but I'm going to try SS braided lines and see how they go
And yes its all soaking in releasing fluid
Thanks for the tips Mike
Ash
My brake pedal is a little soft and the rubber lines are looking a bit worse for wear to say the least.
The calipers have been sent off for refurbishment and the report has come back favourably.
The hard lines on the calipers were galvanically corroded onto the nuts so I had to cut them, I'm guessing I'll have the same problem on the rubber hose coupling point on the chassis and I mayhave to go all the way back to the splitter manifold.
Don't tell me off, but I'm going to try SS braided lines and see how they go
And yes its all soaking in releasing fluid
Thanks for the tips Mike
Ash
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From: Vancouver, BC
Sounds like a plan! I also have encountered where you have to take the lines all the way back to the manifold - real pain, like you said the corrosion on the nuts just freezes everything together, so there really is not much choice. I found the rear ones a bit painful since the lines go above the transmission, and I have not priced out these lines for a long time - are they expensive or stupidly expensive?
No problems with SS braided lines or normal lines. I am a fan of the normal lines because of maintenance, but the stainless lines look cool for sure...not sure if the feel of the braking system changes much.
Cheers,
Mike
No problems with SS braided lines or normal lines. I am a fan of the normal lines because of maintenance, but the stainless lines look cool for sure...not sure if the feel of the braking system changes much.
Cheers,
Mike
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Berkshire UK
Hi Alex
Removed the three hex studs above the lower rocker covers and the 10mm bolt behind the muffler, I can't seem to even get access to the two further 10mm bolts holding the forward section near cylinder 3, they seem to be obstructed well and truly by the suspension carrier mounts
Thanks Alex
Ash
Removed the three hex studs above the lower rocker covers and the 10mm bolt behind the muffler, I can't seem to even get access to the two further 10mm bolts holding the forward section near cylinder 3, they seem to be obstructed well and truly by the suspension carrier mounts
Thanks Alex
Ash
the two bolts you refer to are a challenge but are not too bad once you develop a method. The upper requires a long 1/4 extension and a 10mm socket. With the wheel off the extension goes past the suspension spring straight onto the bolt. Might sound unlikely but it will go straight on.
The lower one requires a 10mm flexi ratchet such as the one in this set:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_165572
Or:
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....e=&dir=catalog
Putting them back requires the same tools, they go back easy as long as the engine tin is lined up properly. For the upper one put a small piece of blu tac on the bolt, place in the socket and feed it back through the suspension and screw in. Helps if the extension bar as a wobble one. The lower one you can start by hand and tighten with the flexi.
Hope this helps.
GR
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 224
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From: London England UK
Thanks Guys
Mike, yeah I'm dreading it, and you've just confirmed my fears, I imagine the parts are v expensive and difficult to get to, two tiny little hard lines for the front calipers were about $80.00
GR Thanks a lot, I bought a set of those wrenches today so I'll give that a shot before I go topside, working tomorrow so back on the tools on friday : o (
Ash
Mike, yeah I'm dreading it, and you've just confirmed my fears, I imagine the parts are v expensive and difficult to get to, two tiny little hard lines for the front calipers were about $80.00
GR Thanks a lot, I bought a set of those wrenches today so I'll give that a shot before I go topside, working tomorrow so back on the tools on friday : o (
Ash
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 224
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From: London England UK
Hi well I have completed the leaky side, started at 15:00 and finished at 18:00 included removing both sets of tin and the muffler, the drivers side muffler was heavily corroded so I have to cut the bolts off with an air chisel.
Thanks so much for all the tips guys, I couldn't have done it without the rennlist gang.........tricy side tomorrow then plugs and wires..........then he dreaded brake lines
DSC_0796.jpg
DSC_0795.jpg
Thanks Again
Ash
Thanks so much for all the tips guys, I couldn't have done it without the rennlist gang.........tricy side tomorrow then plugs and wires..........then he dreaded brake lines
DSC_0796.jpg
DSC_0795.jpg
Thanks Again
Ash