Rear Suspension arm damage
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Rear Suspension arm damage
While replacing my lower valve covers this week I found a couple of little surprises - first was a cracked plug lead, next I noticed this 'gouging' on the suspension arm - it is apparent on both side. I have PSS9 fitted, before I got the car. Everything seems fine now, although the car is on the low side of low, no unusual rear end noises. I can only guess that at some point the suspension was set too low and the lower strut bolt ends were hitting the arm on bottoming out.
Anyone seen this before?
Anyone seen this before?
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#8
Burning Brakes
Do you mind to show a picture from out a little further? Just want to make sure what you have there.
Here is my right rear from this spring (concours folks look away it is a driver, not real purty).
Note a few things:
I raised the spring perch to make sure I had clearance to the lower arm, the cheesy drop links allowing the sway bar to be above the arm not below, and the black magic marker spot on the drop link mount (PSS9 use coilover that came with 2 lock rings for the perch and one for the DL mount with an adjustment **** on the bottom). Some people add a second lock collar to the bottom of the DL mount but I did not. The reason I didn't is shown in the picture, the hammer marks on the lock collars show that I use a big brass drift and a BFH to tighten them, not just those feeble wrenches. After you have them properly aligned and uber tight mark the collar to the mount and monitor it to make sure it does not move. Mine have never moved (until I raised them over the winter after installing new arms and bushings, hence the clean threads under the mounts)
EDIT: while I was typing and dealing with hotel internet Bill gave you the same answer above
Here is my right rear from this spring (concours folks look away it is a driver, not real purty).
Note a few things:
I raised the spring perch to make sure I had clearance to the lower arm, the cheesy drop links allowing the sway bar to be above the arm not below, and the black magic marker spot on the drop link mount (PSS9 use coilover that came with 2 lock rings for the perch and one for the DL mount with an adjustment **** on the bottom). Some people add a second lock collar to the bottom of the DL mount but I did not. The reason I didn't is shown in the picture, the hammer marks on the lock collars show that I use a big brass drift and a BFH to tighten them, not just those feeble wrenches. After you have them properly aligned and uber tight mark the collar to the mount and monitor it to make sure it does not move. Mine have never moved (until I raised them over the winter after installing new arms and bushings, hence the clean threads under the mounts)
EDIT: while I was typing and dealing with hotel internet Bill gave you the same answer above
#9
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Same here and I installed HDs & M030 coils in early '06. I saw no reason to add the additional collar if the existing one was properly tightened (using your method). That, and making sure that the drop links are correctly lined up - with the car sitting on the ground.
Andreas
Andreas
#10
Pro
Thread Starter
Here's the same shot of mine - if nothing else it will make you feel better about the cleanliness of your setup - concours compared to mine!
Looks like no additional locking ring, and not set with a hammer and chisel
Looks like no additional locking ring, and not set with a hammer and chisel
#11
Burning Brakes
FYI those are not PSS9.
Look like HD with H&R springs
Editing as I see stuff...
Do you know the alignment specs on your car? especially kinematic toe#?
To go back to your original post:
The scrape does not look too bad. Just make sure to remove the drop links, loosen the mount from the collar so you can rotate it by hand. Then lower the car to the ground and turn the drop link mount until you can slide the drop link stud in and out of the mount by hand, then use the wrench to tighten it while still on the ground, tough but doable, then mark it with a marker, then jack it up and hammer the heck out of the collar without it moving from the mark you made before tightening.
Still thinking of more questions...
My DL studs don't even come close to that part of the sub frame when compressed (at least I don't think they do, in the above picture they are static on the ground)... Your car looks really low in your avatar but the collar and mount look like they are up pretty high on the threads. You may want to add a couple of collars and lower the drop link mount and go to a RS drop link with the bar under the toe arm or get some form of adjustable link to get the stud lower.
Maybe someone with the same setup at your ride height could post a pic to see how the mount height differs?
Lots of great info in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-dummies.html
Look like HD with H&R springs
Editing as I see stuff...
Do you know the alignment specs on your car? especially kinematic toe#?
To go back to your original post:
The scrape does not look too bad. Just make sure to remove the drop links, loosen the mount from the collar so you can rotate it by hand. Then lower the car to the ground and turn the drop link mount until you can slide the drop link stud in and out of the mount by hand, then use the wrench to tighten it while still on the ground, tough but doable, then mark it with a marker, then jack it up and hammer the heck out of the collar without it moving from the mark you made before tightening.
Still thinking of more questions...
My DL studs don't even come close to that part of the sub frame when compressed (at least I don't think they do, in the above picture they are static on the ground)... Your car looks really low in your avatar but the collar and mount look like they are up pretty high on the threads. You may want to add a couple of collars and lower the drop link mount and go to a RS drop link with the bar under the toe arm or get some form of adjustable link to get the stud lower.
Maybe someone with the same setup at your ride height could post a pic to see how the mount height differs?
Lots of great info in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-dummies.html
Last edited by rsr91128; 07-29-2011 at 12:58 AM.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
I have been doing some searching, since I am somewhat of a suspension noob...I was told by the previous owner of the car that I had PSS9 installed - what is the difference in terms of individual components between PSS9 and HD/H&R etc? Does the PSS9 use the same Bilstein damper?
I really think the damage has been caused by the car being too low, and bottoming out occasionally, so I am going to investigate raising the car a little - but it looks like there may be little adjustment left. Are different (longer) springs in order?
I really think the damage has been caused by the car being too low, and bottoming out occasionally, so I am going to investigate raising the car a little - but it looks like there may be little adjustment left. Are different (longer) springs in order?