993 Long Term Storage
#17
Burning Brakes
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Checkpoint 1: 14 Months
All in good order.
Battery maintainer reporting battery in good condition.
Car started on first attempt.
Fired on 5 cylinders for approx 10 seconds and then on all after that quickly settled into stable idle.
Steady driving until oil up to temp then increased revs as per normal.
Put car away hot.
Car due for a service and will report back any items requiring attention.
All in good order.
Battery maintainer reporting battery in good condition.
Car started on first attempt.
Fired on 5 cylinders for approx 10 seconds and then on all after that quickly settled into stable idle.
Steady driving until oil up to temp then increased revs as per normal.
Put car away hot.
Car due for a service and will report back any items requiring attention.
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#19
Burning Brakes
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Also,
Car checked for rodents (none).
Tank topped up with 98 octane gas, which is highest available here.
And yup, doesn't get driven enough, but am working on the other side of the world, and really don't want to part with it...
Car checked for rodents (none).
Tank topped up with 98 octane gas, which is highest available here.
And yup, doesn't get driven enough, but am working on the other side of the world, and really don't want to part with it...
#20
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Thought race gas now has ethanol too?
Best would be avation fuel if able to find it, second, imo, is to use Sta-bil Marine, or Star Tron additive with 1/4 tank of fresh fuel, drive a bit b4 toring. I would also remove the battery, too much hassel for me to worry about trickle charge on for many months without monitoring occassionally. Never know if battery would leak over time, either. I would flush brake and slave cylinder.
Best would be avation fuel if able to find it, second, imo, is to use Sta-bil Marine, or Star Tron additive with 1/4 tank of fresh fuel, drive a bit b4 toring. I would also remove the battery, too much hassel for me to worry about trickle charge on for many months without monitoring occassionally. Never know if battery would leak over time, either. I would flush brake and slave cylinder.
#21
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Thought race gas now has ethanol too?
Best would be avation fuel if able to find it, second, imo, is to use Sta-bil Marine, or Star Tron additive with 1/4 tank of fresh fuel, drive a bit b4 toring. I would also remove the battery, too much hassel for me to worry about trickle charge on for many months without monitoring occassionally. Never know if battery would leak over time, either. I would flush brake and slave cylinder.
Best would be avation fuel if able to find it, second, imo, is to use Sta-bil Marine, or Star Tron additive with 1/4 tank of fresh fuel, drive a bit b4 toring. I would also remove the battery, too much hassel for me to worry about trickle charge on for many months without monitoring occassionally. Never know if battery would leak over time, either. I would flush brake and slave cylinder.
http://www.racegas.com/fuel/unleaded
I use Sta-Bil very successfully for winter hibernation.
Last edited by No HTwo O; 08-11-2012 at 08:42 AM.
#22
Burning Brakes
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24 month update
12 months since car last started.
Battery strong ( on maintainer ).
Car started ( first time ), no issues.
Brakes soft but functional.
Car serviced:
Fuel drained and replaced with fresh
New fuel filter
New oil & oil filters
Replaced brake fluid
Cleaned and waxed
Garage reports car in good condition. Normal slight weeping of oil from engine seal ( there were no drops of oil below car in garage ).
Car put back into storage and back on maintainer.
Next update in 12 months
Note: I'm overseas and so unable to drive the car but its a keeper and I'll provide updates on the cars status throughout storage to give others an actual view on potential maintenance issues as they arise.
12 months since car last started.
Battery strong ( on maintainer ).
Car started ( first time ), no issues.
Brakes soft but functional.
Car serviced:
Fuel drained and replaced with fresh
New fuel filter
New oil & oil filters
Replaced brake fluid
Cleaned and waxed
Garage reports car in good condition. Normal slight weeping of oil from engine seal ( there were no drops of oil below car in garage ).
Car put back into storage and back on maintainer.
Next update in 12 months
Note: I'm overseas and so unable to drive the car but its a keeper and I'll provide updates on the cars status throughout storage to give others an actual view on potential maintenance issues as they arise.
#25
Burning Brakes
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All,
This question is likely overly simplistic, but I thank you all in advance for indulging. I have my 993 in winter storage until road are free of salt, stones, etc. Fuel stabilizer is in, batter tender on, etc.
Question: should I start and run car in garage periodically? What is the best protocol for this? Do I need to detach batter tender? Do I run until temp is in the sweet spot?
Thank you!
This question is likely overly simplistic, but I thank you all in advance for indulging. I have my 993 in winter storage until road are free of salt, stones, etc. Fuel stabilizer is in, batter tender on, etc.
Question: should I start and run car in garage periodically? What is the best protocol for this? Do I need to detach batter tender? Do I run until temp is in the sweet spot?
Thank you!
#26
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Do not start your engine unless you ahve a chance to drive it and really get the temps up. One think I do like to do, and the OP has no chance unfortunately, is turn the engine over every month or so with the DME relay pulled (do a search). That way the oil gets circulated and splashed onto the cams etc. without going through a heat cycle.
If the car has been sitting for a while (like 3+ weeks say), I would still turn the engine over with the DME relay out before starting - crank until you see the oil pressure gauge move. If that is over say 10 seconds, stop for 20-30 seconds to let the starter cool, and do again. Once you see oil pressure, put the DME relay back in, and start it up.
Cheers,
Mike
If the car has been sitting for a while (like 3+ weeks say), I would still turn the engine over with the DME relay out before starting - crank until you see the oil pressure gauge move. If that is over say 10 seconds, stop for 20-30 seconds to let the starter cool, and do again. Once you see oil pressure, put the DME relay back in, and start it up.
Cheers,
Mike
#27
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^^ That's a great tip. Mine is in winter storage as well. been sitting since December 3rd. It's on a tender, covered and in a heated space with concrete floors. I didn't do anything like cover the exhaust tips- might have been a good idea- but it's not in a barn or anything- so I hope the rodent level is low! Can't WAIT to get it out- but yet again, it's SNOWING here today!! been a really long winter!
#28
Burning Brakes
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So my car will be at the 36 month storage point in the next few months.
It had a service in July '13, as detailed in post 22.
Any views on whether its worth changing the oil. The oil (Mobil 1) will be 12 months and nil miles. I'm assuming that its a waste of time, but would appreciate some informed input.
It had a service in July '13, as detailed in post 22.
Any views on whether its worth changing the oil. The oil (Mobil 1) will be 12 months and nil miles. I'm assuming that its a waste of time, but would appreciate some informed input.
#29
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So my car will be at the 36 month storage point in the next few months.
It had a service in July '13, as detailed in post 22.
Any views on whether its worth changing the oil. The oil (Mobil 1) will be 12 months and nil miles. I'm assuming that its a waste of time, but would appreciate some informed input.
It had a service in July '13, as detailed in post 22.
Any views on whether its worth changing the oil. The oil (Mobil 1) will be 12 months and nil miles. I'm assuming that its a waste of time, but would appreciate some informed input.
#30
Race Director