Help! I think my battery is dead
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Guys, last night my wife came home late from a charity event. She heard my '97 Turbo "ticking". Thinking it may be a battery issue she plugged in the trickle charger. When I awoke this morning she told me about it. I checked it out and noticed that I had left the front hood open![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Now the car won't start. The only light that comes on is a small one under the dashboard beneath the gas guage and oil guage. I believe this is the light by the ignition switch.
My question is, doI have AAA "jump" the car battery? Will this hurt anything? My biggest concern is that I have heard that is a pain in the a_s on these cars if the battery goes dead due to codes being "erased" or disappearing. Is that accurate? What would I do to fix that issue? I can't believe that these car batteries don't tend to die from time to time making this a regular issue.
Please advise!
![Mad](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif)
Now the car won't start. The only light that comes on is a small one under the dashboard beneath the gas guage and oil guage. I believe this is the light by the ignition switch.
My question is, doI have AAA "jump" the car battery? Will this hurt anything? My biggest concern is that I have heard that is a pain in the a_s on these cars if the battery goes dead due to codes being "erased" or disappearing. Is that accurate? What would I do to fix that issue? I can't believe that these car batteries don't tend to die from time to time making this a regular issue.
Please advise!
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#2
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A fully charged battery with no load should measure around 12.6 volts. If your battery has been fully discharged, a trickle charger with only an amp or so capability may not bring it back. You need something capable of supplying several amps at least.
When the battery is charged, you will then need to enter your radio code to restore it but your car will start and run fine. It will take some driving time for all the "readiness codes" to be reset but this will not affect normal operation.
When the battery is charged, you will then need to enter your radio code to restore it but your car will start and run fine. It will take some driving time for all the "readiness codes" to be reset but this will not affect normal operation.
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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not sure on battery age as I have owned the car only 2 years. I have a file @ my office with all past owners maintenance. Very accurate recordkeeping so I am sure it is in there. The codes I am worried about are the one's that have to deal with getting an emmissions test. Will this be affected?
BTW, the hood was not shut fort a total of 51 hours. Will a trickle charger bring it back to life?
BTW, the hood was not shut fort a total of 51 hours. Will a trickle charger bring it back to life?
#5
Nordschleife Master
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If your battery didn't totally die, then your readiness codes should be preserved. A trickle charger should be able to fully restore your battery, assuming it is OK, but it will take a long time. A 10Amp charger will be faster. Jumping the car and driving it for an hour will also restore the charge.
#7
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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GOOD NEWS!! just went out to garage and the car started! The battery must not have totally died because the radio came on without having to set a code number in. Plugging that battery maintainer in must've helped. Drove it for about 20 minutes and plugged it back in (would' ve driven longer but have a family commitment I have to go to)
I freakn LOVE that car!
thanks for all your help guys! at least now i have an idea of what to do if battery does actually die
I freakn LOVE that car!
thanks for all your help guys! at least now i have an idea of what to do if battery does actually die
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#8
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...and if you do end up buying an Interstate, I recently used this coupon at my local Firestone to get a Mega-tron for the wife's Toyota and it came in at $99 (pre-tax).
http://www.firestonecompleteautocare...jsp?image=3843
http://www.firestonecompleteautocare...jsp?image=3843
#9
Rennlist Member
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To avoid losing radio codes and ecu data, I rigged up red and black leads with alligator clips attached to a small 12v/5ah gel-cell battery as used on car trailers, back-up batteries for alarm systems, etc. When changing out a battery, I just clip the leads to their respective battery terminals in the vehicle, then disconnect the old car battery, install the new one, then remove the gel-cell leads. Easier and more reliable than the cigarette lighter plug-ins.
#10
Addicted Specialist
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FWIW, you should make certain your battery is fully charged via a charger (it's better than just driving it around and having the alternator do it), and then check your voltage with the car off, then idling, then at around 2K-2.5K RPMs. Car off, you should read around 12.5, at idle all accessories off, should be above 13v., and at 2+K or so should read somewhere between 13.5 and 14.5v ...no higher.
When a battery is on the outs, it fails to hold whatever charge is given it, which ends up taxing your alternator. This is one of the ways alternators get stressed/die ...as victim to dead battery. A bit of preventative maintenence here could save you a premature alternator replacement.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward
When a battery is on the outs, it fails to hold whatever charge is given it, which ends up taxing your alternator. This is one of the ways alternators get stressed/die ...as victim to dead battery. A bit of preventative maintenence here could save you a premature alternator replacement.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edward