Heat issue
#16
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Mine did that exact thing a few years back, Mike ... Jerry put it right, it had something to do with the fuse block at the back of the car, if memory serves ... relay, blower motor, something.
#17
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Vic, that's what I originally thought as well from my previous car and Randall's help back about 6 years ago. However, after some searching it turned out to have been a different issue.
Back then I didn't have much airflow other than on highest setting. It turned out to be a defective rear blower relay. So maybe that will help someone who's having that particular problem.
I'll take the car somewhere if I have to. It's just that these kinds of problems... I dunno, just feels like I should be diagnosing and learning how to fix them myself. Than again, I've been delusional many times before
Back then I didn't have much airflow other than on highest setting. It turned out to be a defective rear blower relay. So maybe that will help someone who's having that particular problem.
I'll take the car somewhere if I have to. It's just that these kinds of problems... I dunno, just feels like I should be diagnosing and learning how to fix them myself. Than again, I've been delusional many times before
#19
I'm curious. Where do you think the flapper noises come from? The flapper at the footwells (there's one on each side) or the flapper at the rear blower in the engine compartment?
There are several possibilities that I'm considering so far:
1. CCU itself. I'm planning on blowing the sensor out with compressed air and later taking it out and cleaning it.
2. Flapper at the rear blower. Not sure yet how to check that.
3. Flappers at the footwells. Those motors are known to go bad, but it's not likely that both of them went kaput. Otherwise one side heat should be working, right? Plus they usually go bad in open position, which means searing heat at all time.
Oh, where's Randall G. when you need him? Seriously, does anyone know?
There are several possibilities that I'm considering so far:
1. CCU itself. I'm planning on blowing the sensor out with compressed air and later taking it out and cleaning it.
2. Flapper at the rear blower. Not sure yet how to check that.
3. Flappers at the footwells. Those motors are known to go bad, but it's not likely that both of them went kaput. Otherwise one side heat should be working, right? Plus they usually go bad in open position, which means searing heat at all time.
Oh, where's Randall G. when you need him? Seriously, does anyone know?
Again, mine works as it should when I first start out (includng the air flow transition I described, but at lower temp settings), but then reverts to this behavior after I have been driving for a little while. Does yours do that?
#20
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If I remember Randall's explanations way back when, the Red Dot and Blue Dot positions essentially bypass anything that CCU thinks and say: "give me full hot" or "give me full cold". A very German engineering thing - build in failure mods and then come up with complicated ways of dealing with them
Essentially, yours behaves pretty much the same as mine. I dread a dead/dying CCU. Think it's time to pull it out and try to re-solder the contacts and see what happens. Used CCUs go for $400+ now and repairs run $300+ by shops. Not pretty.
Essentially, yours behaves pretty much the same as mine. I dread a dead/dying CCU. Think it's time to pull it out and try to re-solder the contacts and see what happens. Used CCUs go for $400+ now and repairs run $300+ by shops. Not pretty.
#21
If I remember Randall's explanations way back when, the Red Dot and Blue Dot positions essentially bypass anything that CCU thinks and say: "give me full hot" or "give me full cold". A very German engineering thing - build in failure mods and then come up with complicated ways of dealing with them
Essentially, yours behaves pretty much the same as mine. I dread a dead/dying CCU. Think it's time to pull it out and try to re-solder the contacts and see what happens. Used CCUs go for $400+ now and repairs run $300+ by shops. Not pretty.
Essentially, yours behaves pretty much the same as mine. I dread a dead/dying CCU. Think it's time to pull it out and try to re-solder the contacts and see what happens. Used CCUs go for $400+ now and repairs run $300+ by shops. Not pretty.
#22
Burning Brakes
Paging Toreb
meanwhile you can check out his webpage : http://privat.bluezone.no/toreb2000/ccurepair.html
meanwhile you can check out his webpage : http://privat.bluezone.no/toreb2000/ccurepair.html
#23
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Akerlie, this is the greatest thing since sliced bread. Exactly what I needed. Thanks, man!
I knew that SE people help each other more than others
I knew that SE people help each other more than others
#24
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A bit of an update. Blew some compressed air into the little grate that houses air temp sensor inside CCU. Ran out of compressed air in a can long before I felt it cleaned much there. Today the heat was sometimes on, sometimes not while setting at 27C mark or so. Which means that I'll be talking CCU out and looking at its fan as well as cold solder joints and all that wonderful stuff. If I could get another CCU to try out that would make it simple.
#25
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Hi there!
I would not use compressed air in the CCU temp sensor, it could over-rev and damage the CCU fan at the back. I would suspect the two mixing valves to be the culprit if you are having problems getting hot air. Check the operation by opening the kick carpet panels and look for motion as you turn the temp **** from min to max and back. Both valves should close and open accordingly.
Damaged valve servos is a common problem. If both of them are stationary you may also have a problem inside the CCU with a driver IC. But that's another story, check the servos first.
Cheers,
Tore
www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
I would not use compressed air in the CCU temp sensor, it could over-rev and damage the CCU fan at the back. I would suspect the two mixing valves to be the culprit if you are having problems getting hot air. Check the operation by opening the kick carpet panels and look for motion as you turn the temp **** from min to max and back. Both valves should close and open accordingly.
Damaged valve servos is a common problem. If both of them are stationary you may also have a problem inside the CCU with a driver IC. But that's another story, check the servos first.
Cheers,
Tore
www.ccu.tore.bergvill.com
#26
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Tore, thanks!!
I'll check the servos at the footwells. What is strange is that both servos would go bad at the same time. On top of that, the problem seems somewhat intermittent as they seem to work for a time yesterday.
I'll check the servos at the footwells. What is strange is that both servos would go bad at the same time. On top of that, the problem seems somewhat intermittent as they seem to work for a time yesterday.
#27
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I agree, it's rather strange. However, intermittent behaviour in defective servos are common. A good bash can make them work for some time. You may have to disconnect the valve from the hoses to be able to spot any motion. I have changed both my mixing servos though, but both are driven by the same output in the CCU, so your problem may be inside it.
Cheers,
Tore
Cheers,
Tore
#29
Old thread, I know, but did you ever find the solution to this problem? I just had mine in for an oil change and checkup. No codes for flapper or any heat related issues. One code for an A/C sensor (max A/C was blowing at 60 degrees at the vent, which is a little warm), but the tech swore it could not be connected to my problem with the heat only working at the max setting.