Distributor cap and rotor replacement--TIPS
04-25-2011, 09:15 AM
#1
button queen
Thread Starter
Distributor cap and rotor replacement--TIPS
I got it done this weekend--for the first time ever--total newbee. 
After carefully following the P-Car and Pcarworkshop instructions (which were great) I have a few "tips" from a first timer that may be of some help:
1. First challange is getting the damn screws holding the distributor caps loose. For three screws (the fourth is addressed below) I used a P2 phillips bit inserted into a 1/4" socket with extension and used the leverage of the 3/8" drive to get the job done. I found this combination far superior in torque to a screwdriver handle.
2. This next step is critical IMHO. As is described in the supplemental comment on the sites, turn the screw clockwise first until you hear it crack loose relieving the torque. Then the screw should far more easily back off counterclockwise. Be sure to apply pressure to hold the bit on the screw (also easier done with the drive than a screwdriver) so you don't slip out and strip it.
3. That technique will work for three of the screws--both on the top distributor and the higher one on the bottom. The final screw (the lower on the bottom distributor) is a bitch because it's so tight in there. I finally got it to work with a phillips screwdriver and a vise grip attached to the screwdriver handle for the leverage. Again applying proper pressure while torqueing is essential--very awkward situation. Took me 3-4 hours to get his one out but most of that was failed attempts using various combinations of bits and elbow joints etc. until I innovated the screwdriver/vise grip contraption.
4. Final tip: I marked each of the wires as I removed them from the distributor cap and removed the caps as I progressed just to give myself more room. I marked them with a Sharpee, but be sure to rub clean the accumulated dust etc. from the place you mark them (or use tape) or the mark may disappear on you. A couple did on me but I was able to get it right by elimination (whew!). I used a black Sharpee but wish I had a silver one. I marked the top ones 1T-6T and the lower ones 1L-6L starting at one of the screws as reference. The coil wires are pretty obvious given their length--you'll see. Once you get them all off it's a lot of wires in there so next time I would bundle them temporarily to more easily get them out of the way.
Oh, and be sure to really stand on the rotors when you insert them to make sure they completely seat down. I hope that helps some of you. I almost gave up on that last screw becasue I kept trying to make the ratchet drive work when a high torque screwdriver solution was better.
Good luck.
After carefully following the P-Car and Pcarworkshop instructions (which were great) I have a few "tips" from a first timer that may be of some help:
1. First challange is getting the damn screws holding the distributor caps loose. For three screws (the fourth is addressed below) I used a P2 phillips bit inserted into a 1/4" socket with extension and used the leverage of the 3/8" drive to get the job done. I found this combination far superior in torque to a screwdriver handle.
2. This next step is critical IMHO. As is described in the supplemental comment on the sites, turn the screw clockwise first until you hear it crack loose relieving the torque. Then the screw should far more easily back off counterclockwise. Be sure to apply pressure to hold the bit on the screw (also easier done with the drive than a screwdriver) so you don't slip out and strip it.
3. That technique will work for three of the screws--both on the top distributor and the higher one on the bottom. The final screw (the lower on the bottom distributor) is a bitch because it's so tight in there. I finally got it to work with a phillips screwdriver and a vise grip attached to the screwdriver handle for the leverage. Again applying proper pressure while torqueing is essential--very awkward situation. Took me 3-4 hours to get his one out but most of that was failed attempts using various combinations of bits and elbow joints etc. until I innovated the screwdriver/vise grip contraption.
4. Final tip: I marked each of the wires as I removed them from the distributor cap and removed the caps as I progressed just to give myself more room. I marked them with a Sharpee, but be sure to rub clean the accumulated dust etc. from the place you mark them (or use tape) or the mark may disappear on you. A couple did on me but I was able to get it right by elimination (whew!). I used a black Sharpee but wish I had a silver one. I marked the top ones 1T-6T and the lower ones 1L-6L starting at one of the screws as reference. The coil wires are pretty obvious given their length--you'll see. Once you get them all off it's a lot of wires in there so next time I would bundle them temporarily to more easily get them out of the way.
Oh, and be sure to really stand on the rotors when you insert them to make sure they completely seat down. I hope that helps some of you. I almost gave up on that last screw becasue I kept trying to make the ratchet drive work when a high torque screwdriver solution was better.
Good luck.
04-25-2011, 10:54 AM
#3
Race Director
Great tips. On my current car the first service I did I had 1 dist. cap screw that would NOT break free. I was using screwdriver bits on a 1/4" drive ratchet with extension but it just wasn't coming off.
Wound up using a screw/bolt removing tool from Craftsman (top of the pic below). A few light taps to seat the tool and a (3/8) socket, extension & ratchet setup and it broke free. Very handy tool set to have in the box.
Wound up using a screw/bolt removing tool from Craftsman (top of the pic below). A few light taps to seat the tool and a (3/8) socket, extension & ratchet setup and it broke free. Very handy tool set to have in the box.
Last edited by Slow Guy; 12-24-2014 at 01:40 PM.
04-25-2011, 12:03 PM
#4
button queen
Thread Starter
I agree--that gizmo would have been great but I'm not sure it would have worked on the last screw--not sure you could fit it in there. Wonder why the DUFUS tool guy at Sears never mentioned that? Sold me a $7 elbow joint though. 
Come to think of it he did look like he'd had a hard night.
Come to think of it he did look like he'd had a hard night.
04-25-2011, 12:37 PM
#6
Race Director
I agree--that gizmo would have been great but I'm not sure it would have worked on the last screw--not sure you could fit it in there. Wonder why the DUFUS tool guy at Sears never mentioned that? Sold me a $7 elbow joint though.
Come to think of it he did look like he'd had a hard night.
Come to think of it he did look like he'd had a hard night.
04-25-2011, 01:21 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Newbie question. When do I need to replace the distributor caps and rotors? Mileage?
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04-25-2011, 02:01 PM
#8
Racer
How true!
A clean #2 Phillips bit on a long extension with a 3/8"-drive ratchet and the key is downward pressure.
I found that a drop of penetrating oil on the sides of the heads helps but don't get any into the cross or the bit might slip!
Next step would be belt replacement.
Cap and rotor every ~20-30 Miles depending on inspection.
You may find that the rotor needs replacing before the caps.
Belt replacement anytime after 100k Miles?
A clean #2 Phillips bit on a long extension with a 3/8"-drive ratchet and the key is downward pressure.
I found that a drop of penetrating oil on the sides of the heads helps but don't get any into the cross or the bit might slip!
Next step would be belt replacement.
Cap and rotor every ~20-30 Miles depending on inspection.
You may find that the rotor needs replacing before the caps.
Belt replacement anytime after 100k Miles?
04-26-2011, 09:00 AM
#9
button queen
Thread Starter
My car was just south or 28,000 miles. I'm doing this as a global 30,000 mile deal with transmission fluid change, brake fluid change, clutch master cylinder bleed, P/S fluid replacement, air and cabin filters, belts, fuel filter and spark plugs. The car is relatively new to me so I felt I needed a fresh start.
