Jeff96-993

I think there's a secondary check in the shop manual. Ohmeter required to check the resistance of each one, find the one that's out of range and replace that one.

Don't recall what the ranges were though. If I have a chance I'll take a look tonight.

2Many Cars

Interestingly, I worked on these relays this weekend and discovered I have only 2. I do have ABD (it's listed as an option on the original Mulroney sticker, listed on the trunk lid sticker and the ABD light goes on at start-up) but there is no wiring or sign that I should have a third relay. Perhaps the C4s have 3 and the 2wd cars have only 2. My system seems to work fine, I was just getting a very occasional incidence of the ABD/ABS lights staying on after start-up so I wanted to clean the relay contacts. FWIW there is also an ABD "brain" box which is located just below the relays. I cleaned the contacts on that too. It, like the relays, has a black plastic cover and you need to remove the whole unit to get the connector off but it's an easy job. Hopefully that will solve the problem, if not I'll be cleaning the speed sensors next (if I can get them off).

01coccobet

if it helps,this are the offending!!!

01coccobet

I'm having issues with the brake booster,same direction!!!

bart1

I guess I didnt reply to this, but my problem was the right front wheel sensor. I broke the head off the bolt and never got the sensor out, but in my messing with it, I apparently helped the ground sensor or something, as I have not had the lights anymore. At some point, I'll have to pull the hub off and press the sensor out and replace.

2Many Cars

I have the two outboard relays but nothing in the two center slots. Not that it matters but my relays are dark grey as well.

01coccobet

the center is the brake booster relay(c4s and turbo)
the colors Are not necessary,i bought new-ones. and Are all black.
I understand that close to' the battery ther'are 2 60 Amps fuse that I can't reach because
Are covered by a plastic panel locked by the battery!!
NeXT step will be to' them!

berni29

Hi There

The sensors can be hard to get out. I have got two completely siezed ones out without removing the hubs. What you do is break the head off (get a chisel under the head) and then with a small drill make as many holes in the plastic that surrounds the VERY hard crystaline metal that is the core of the sensor as you can. They need to be the depth of the sensor. Lots of copper deritus will come out and if you catch the drill against the metal core it will snap, so slow and careful. Small battery drills are great for this.

Once you have removed most of the plastic you can shield the brakes etc and apply some heat to the metalic centre of the sensor until the remaining plastic starts to melt. Then using some thin long nosed pliers pull the core out. Then using a sharp small screwdriver or similar collapse the outer metal casing into the void left by the core. Then pull it out.

Of course if you feel like whipping the hub off feel free, but if it is a rear sensor you might want to try my method first.

By the way, if youi have a Tip, one of the front sensors (right I think) is linked to the gearbox and will cause not only the ABS problems, but will cause seemingly random g'box issues as well.

Berni

The Brewmeister

I've had an intermittent problem for years. Code indicated that it was the right front wheel sensor which I replaced. The problem still pops up occasionally, right front wheel sensor is still indicated as the offender. I reseated the connector on the control unit and the lights still come on occasionally. Turning off the car and restarting it usually works. It can be months between occurances. Maybe I should pull and reseat the relays as others have done.

Martin S.

I have had two sets in the past, Stage IIIs (Outstanding, the best option in my opinion) and a Stage I, very nice as well. At Laguna Seca, the Stage Is with fangs and the Fabspeed X pipe/200 cell cat program will make 92 dB sound...but when they start the roving sound meter, and start taking readings from the "fang" side, it's all over. The "fangs" will get you busted. This is the reason I went back to stock mufflers.

I replaced the Stage Is with a stock set up I got from Darin, had to make 92 dB sound with Fabspeed 200 cell cats and Fabspeed X pipe.

Sure the sound with the stock mufflers is nice, but too timid. I am just going to put on a stock set whenever I go to Laguna Seca, 1X per year. For the remainder of the time, I must go back to Stage III. These pups hooked into my Fabspeed set up should be awesome.

With the stock mufflers, and a helmet on, I couldn't hear the exhaust. I like to hear the exhaust, especially when using the throttle to rev up for down shifts...3rd gear down to second is a key move that needs to be right.

The Brewmeister

^ Thinking of another thread when you posted this?

Slow Guy

It's a California thing.......

2Many Cars

I think he meant to give us a break from our brake conversation.

01coccobet

funny point of view!!!

what's your name?yes I can!

ah ah ah

kms0521

Both my lights are coming on intermittently. Saw that one brake wire had come loose from its harness. Reattached it, but still get brake warning light and occasional ABS light. The two relays that are discussed above, are they the R65 Engine Relay and R68 Valve Relay? Those are the two that are just left of my spare tire, covered with a plastic box (that is not obvious how to remove!)