My MaxJax 2 post lift
#16
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Peter -
I used a piece of steel the length of the post base to level it instead of the provided shims. IIRC in the instructions it mentions not to use more than 2 shims stacked - which I found funny, because my floor was within acceptable degrees of slope but there was no way I was going to level it using only two shims. I actually cut the steel I needed off of the metal brackets that came with the lift to bolt it together for shipping - they were the perfect thickness. I got lucky doing that but if they hadn't been the right thickness I was just going to go to a metal shop and buy two pieces.
In one of the posts above I mentioned that I made two little ramps to drive the front tires on to so that the car was level to the hoist. I use hockey pucks on the pads on the arms and I found I was able to get the car level to the hoist by changing the combinations of pucks and pads so that I don't need the ramps anymore.
Good luck - let me know if you have anymore questions.
I used a piece of steel the length of the post base to level it instead of the provided shims. IIRC in the instructions it mentions not to use more than 2 shims stacked - which I found funny, because my floor was within acceptable degrees of slope but there was no way I was going to level it using only two shims. I actually cut the steel I needed off of the metal brackets that came with the lift to bolt it together for shipping - they were the perfect thickness. I got lucky doing that but if they hadn't been the right thickness I was just going to go to a metal shop and buy two pieces.
In one of the posts above I mentioned that I made two little ramps to drive the front tires on to so that the car was level to the hoist. I use hockey pucks on the pads on the arms and I found I was able to get the car level to the hoist by changing the combinations of pucks and pads so that I don't need the ramps anymore.
Good luck - let me know if you have anymore questions.
#17
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Hi Steve, if you can take a couple pics of the shimming , or a level on the floor beside where u mounted the posts, that would be reassuring....
I've got my installation on hold right now... trying to sort out the shimming, as well as find the best time to rent an SDS drill to get the holes done. Plus other around the home stuff.
One of my posts straddles a saw cut too, but got the ok from Dannmar for the installation....
P
I've got my installation on hold right now... trying to sort out the shimming, as well as find the best time to rent an SDS drill to get the holes done. Plus other around the home stuff.
One of my posts straddles a saw cut too, but got the ok from Dannmar for the installation....
P
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Peter - pm me your email and I'll send you any pics you want. When I first set up my lift I had three different cars on it over the first weekend, and my car has been on it up in the air now for well over a month waiting on some parts that were back-ordered. It's as solid as a rock.
#19
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Steve, PM sent. I just measured my slope on my floor. It's just right around 1/2" over a 2ft level, so I am well within the 3 degree slope that is spec'd in the manual (step 2, p7).
According to a slope conversion table I found online (google)
3 degrees of slope is 5/8" rise over 12". -- I only have 1/4" rise over 12" which is 1.2 degrees slope, or 2.1% slope.
Peter
According to a slope conversion table I found online (google)
3 degrees of slope is 5/8" rise over 12". -- I only have 1/4" rise over 12" which is 1.2 degrees slope, or 2.1% slope.
Peter
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Steve, PM sent. I just measured my slope on my floor. It's just right around 1/2" over a 2ft level, so I am well within the 3 degree slope that is spec'd in the manual (step 2, p7).
According to a slope conversion table I found online (google)
3 degrees of slope is 5/8" rise over 12". -- I only have 1/4" rise over 12" which is 1.2 degrees slope, or 2.1% slope.
Peter
According to a slope conversion table I found online (google)
3 degrees of slope is 5/8" rise over 12". -- I only have 1/4" rise over 12" which is 1.2 degrees slope, or 2.1% slope.
Peter