axl911

My last attempt to save weight and run the Deka/Baille/Oddesey 16lbs 330CCA battery lasted about 2 years before the battery won't crank the car over.

Conclusion: The 16lbs battery is just not big enough for the car. Car would have problem cranking over if left idle for extended period of time or left sitting in cold weather <35 degrees.

Now, Optima Yellow Top D51 is rated 450CCA. Anyone run this battery? Is 450CCA enough?

vincer77

I am running a D35 with 620CCA. If I leave the car for more than about 2 weeks w/o a trickle charge, the car will not start. I am not sure why this is. The long battery cable from the battery to the starter probably doesn't help matters.

My CTEK charger works great though.

Mike J

I tried Optima a couple of times...and they had short lives and quick failures. Tried the old and true conventional battery...no issues.

I would not buy another Optima again ...

Cheers,

Mike

pettybird

The only battery I've seen which is worse for a limited-use car than an Optima is a reproduction battery from Antique Auto Battery.

I work at a specialty and exotic car dealership and can't remember how many Optimas I've replaced. They're terrible if not constantly left on charge.

IXLR8

Battery cable length isn't an issue if the gauge is chosen correctly.

The condition of the cable terminal crimp at the starter and the battery clamp matters a lot. Then the screw connections add to the problem. Any resistance and you get a voltage drop.


I just made up an alternator ground strap for a local P-car owner.

The original 10 gauge cable was old, the insulation was stiff and brittle and the crimp terminals were in bad shape. Resistance along its 1 foot length measured 0.11Ω. Do the math for voltage drop (or rise) from the ground lug. The new cable I made up was 8 gauge and the very ends were soldered at the crimps. Resistance was now 0.000714 Ω (used an Agilent 34420A Micro Ohm Meter - 4 wire). Now do the same math. Huge difference!

IXLR8

Vince, have you measured the drain current while parked? When you measure it, make sure your luggage compartment light is off (manually close the latch, but don't forget to release it later), lock the doors and set the immobilizer using the remote.

You should see about 22 mA. (yes, I know the door LEDs flash, but their duty cycle is low).

The battery in my daily driver is smaller than my P-car battery, yet when it is parked for six weeks in the hot sun (faster self discharge), it starts when I get back from my vacation...and this is a battery in its 12th year.

vincer77

Thanks for those suggestions. So you are talking about the ground strap from the battery to chassis? The battery terminal ends look good, but I have not looked at the starter end.

The battery in my DD also starts w/o a problem after sitting for several weeks, though I have never gotten 12 years out of a battery before. The Honda was good for 7. I know you use a charger and is a big reason why I got the CTEK.

Why do you suggest setting the immobilizer to check current draw?

IXLR8

That one as well.

Its not one that gets checked unless you are replacing the starter.

Just remember to disconnect the positive cable (and wrap it so it can't accidentally make contact) from your battery if you are taking the terminal lug off the starter to clean it, or you might end up being a welder by trade. Some Scotchbrite pad (if it is really corroded), some spirits to clean it up and some silicone grease to keep it from corroding will do.

Not on the daily driver, even when it is parked for 6 weeks. I have to measure the current drain on the Honda one day. It must be near zero.

helmet993

For those of you wishing to check your current draw - a little tip I have used throughout the years to keep radio settings, readiness monitors, etc intact:

Loosen the clamp enough on the negative cable to lift it off the post, clip one side of your DVOM to the cable and hold the other side of the DVOM on top of the post. Next, lift up the negative cable enough to let the DVOM take the reading...then look at your DVOM (set to mA) and voila, you can check dark current and still maintain all your settings/readiness monitors.

IXLR8

Anyone planning to buy a digital multimeter (DMM) should look for one that has a 10A DC setting on top of the usual 200 mA and 20 mA settings. Those meters can be bought for well under $50. As for taking readings, start at 10A and work your way down, or you'll blow the fuse.

vincer77

I was thinking that would be the way to do it. Thanks for confirming. Though if I clean the starter terminal...