New Alternator - Scraping but not fan on housing sides
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've had the alt off & on a couple of times so far trying to figure this one out..
The alternator died on the way home in October at the end of the season. I probably should have just ordered one from Pelican but I thought that I was in a hurry at the time and searching revealed that some folks had picked up a decent rebuild at autozone.
I ordered one and during the 1 day wait, removed the old one. One thing led to another and I'm just now getting around to putting her back together. I've got the factory manual diagrams & the couple of links online but just can't get it going..
When I seat the fan onto the shaft and into the housing, I spin the fan & get the most awful metal on metal sound. For quite a while I was convinced that the blades were somehow contacting the housing sides so reseated, etc.
I pulled it out today & put it on the counter where it was warm and I could think.. I put my shop light behind the assembly and can CLEARLY see that the blades are NOT contacting the housing.
Instead I believe that the inner surface of the fan or something thereabouts is making contact with the face of the alternator.
If I lift up ever so slightly on the fan & it stays put, no more sound from contact.
This leads me to speculate one of three things (besides the obvious no-autozone) :
1) The flange that comes out of the alternator front side through which the shaft passes is not the correct thickness (doesn't stick out far enough).
2) There is supposed to be a thrust washer or something that fits between the spacer / sleeve and the afore mentioned flange on the alternator (that I'd be missing and that doesn't show up in any of the diagrams [unlikely].
3) The screw heads on the front of the alternator (the ones that aren't flush mount) are too thick causing a rub..
Looking things over my best guess is 1 which will be fun as I don't know how that works out financially given that my 'good' core is gone.
I've attached some pictures and would appreciate some guidance..
The alternator died on the way home in October at the end of the season. I probably should have just ordered one from Pelican but I thought that I was in a hurry at the time and searching revealed that some folks had picked up a decent rebuild at autozone.
I ordered one and during the 1 day wait, removed the old one. One thing led to another and I'm just now getting around to putting her back together. I've got the factory manual diagrams & the couple of links online but just can't get it going..
When I seat the fan onto the shaft and into the housing, I spin the fan & get the most awful metal on metal sound. For quite a while I was convinced that the blades were somehow contacting the housing sides so reseated, etc.
I pulled it out today & put it on the counter where it was warm and I could think.. I put my shop light behind the assembly and can CLEARLY see that the blades are NOT contacting the housing.
Instead I believe that the inner surface of the fan or something thereabouts is making contact with the face of the alternator.
If I lift up ever so slightly on the fan & it stays put, no more sound from contact.
This leads me to speculate one of three things (besides the obvious no-autozone) :
1) The flange that comes out of the alternator front side through which the shaft passes is not the correct thickness (doesn't stick out far enough).
2) There is supposed to be a thrust washer or something that fits between the spacer / sleeve and the afore mentioned flange on the alternator (that I'd be missing and that doesn't show up in any of the diagrams [unlikely].
3) The screw heads on the front of the alternator (the ones that aren't flush mount) are too thick causing a rub..
Looking things over my best guess is 1 which will be fun as I don't know how that works out financially given that my 'good' core is gone.
I've attached some pictures and would appreciate some guidance..
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It might have been a Bosch at some point in it's life but it only displays the following numbers now:
14941 (Duralast #)
15649
01000278
29175 90059
Just noticed they're so proud of it there's no name on it..
This should be fun.
Thanks!
Last edited by bstrutton; 03-21-2011 at 10:20 PM.
#4
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had a similar problem with a friend's 993. We were missing the sleeve on the shaft between the fan and the alternator. We picked one up from Parts Heaven since it's close to us. I would guess that the sleeve you have is not long enough to clear the alternator.
BTW, our alternator, rebuilt bosch, did not come with the bushing.
BTW, our alternator, rebuilt bosch, did not come with the bushing.
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yep. Got # 17 there but looking at this diagram, pelican parts, other links online, even the autozone pic, the flange coming out of the alternator around the front shaft appears in my pictures significantly 'shorter' then what it's supposed to be. Think I'm going to spin by Autozone tomorrow & hope they'll see it too & just refund the money.. Take my licks & call Sunset or someone more reputable..
Thanks!
Thanks!
#7
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
FWIW, I picked up a remanufactured Bosch alternator from Sunset two years (or so) ago and it was less than $200.
Andreas
Trending Topics
#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Andreas, you mentioned that you picked up an alt from Sunset for < $200. I just checked with them and the only reman they have is a Porsche reman at $636.. Guess I'll go Pelican unless anyone else has a suggestion..
Thanks!
#9
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We haven't had any issues or returns with this alternator recently, so you're probably good with the one from us.
-Wayne
-Wayne
__________________
Your Trusted Source For DIY and Parts
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
Porsche Parts | DIY Tech Articles | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic303_8.gif)
FREE SHIPPING over $99 click here
Porsche Parts | DIY Tech Articles | Facebook | Twitter | Instagram | YouTube | Promos
888.280.7799 | 6am - 5pm PST
![](https://rennlist.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic303_8.gif)
#10
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1. It appears that the spacer, i.e. the one that came on the alternator (not the sleeve)
may be the wrong one (too short), as there were two 964/993 compatible type alternators.
The later used a larger bearing which had shorter spacer. The early type had the
small 6303 bearing and required the longer spacer. So if one received an early type
alternator, the rebuilder may have installed the wrong spacer (the short one).
2. The spacer on the alternator in the picture is damaged, i.e. the sleeve 'spun' on the
alt shaft causing the groove in the spacer. That's possibly the result of the fan bearing
failure.
3. The alt shaft is damaged which may result in fan vibrations causing eventual bearing
failure.
Bottom line: You never really know the quality of rebuilt alternators unless you know
who the actual end-rebuilder is, i.e. Even Bosch in many cases sublets their rebuilding
to other manufacturers/suppliers.
may be the wrong one (too short), as there were two 964/993 compatible type alternators.
The later used a larger bearing which had shorter spacer. The early type had the
small 6303 bearing and required the longer spacer. So if one received an early type
alternator, the rebuilder may have installed the wrong spacer (the short one).
2. The spacer on the alternator in the picture is damaged, i.e. the sleeve 'spun' on the
alt shaft causing the groove in the spacer. That's possibly the result of the fan bearing
failure.
3. The alt shaft is damaged which may result in fan vibrations causing eventual bearing
failure.
Bottom line: You never really know the quality of rebuilt alternators unless you know
who the actual end-rebuilder is, i.e. Even Bosch in many cases sublets their rebuilding
to other manufacturers/suppliers.
#13
Advanced
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
LorenFB: I think that your first idea is absolutely the case. The second (non-bosch rebuild) they ordered had the same short collar.
Wayne: Agreed. That 3 day shipping on an alt for $3 bucks was smoking. I just needed it (ok -wanted it) for the weekend and the 3p PST cutoff just killed it. We'll catch ya next time.
Ended up sourcing a Bosch reman locally. Can't wait to get her back on the road. Haven't heard that rumble since mid October and I'm starting to get withdrawls..
In retrospect I have to wonder what a good electrical shop (do those even exist any more) would have charged to just rebuild mine. Maybe next time.
Thanks all.
Wayne: Agreed. That 3 day shipping on an alt for $3 bucks was smoking. I just needed it (ok -wanted it) for the weekend and the 3p PST cutoff just killed it. We'll catch ya next time.
Ended up sourcing a Bosch reman locally. Can't wait to get her back on the road. Haven't heard that rumble since mid October and I'm starting to get withdrawls..
In retrospect I have to wonder what a good electrical shop (do those even exist any more) would have charged to just rebuild mine. Maybe next time.
Thanks all.