Inner Rear CV Joint Question - SOLVED!
03-01-2011, 03:11 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Inner Rear CV Joint Question - SOLVED!
When removing the inner cv joint do you have to remove BOTH gold metal covers? I can't seem to get enough clearance between the joint and the transmission to remove it. Advice? I am using the slide off method to get to the outer, torn cv boot for replacement.
Last edited by Vorsicht; 03-02-2011 at 05:21 PM.
03-01-2011, 04:22 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
I don't believe the gold cap matters. I leave it with the axle. You can disconnect the strut/shock at the bottom to get more clearance. This is needed if you are removing the axle from the car to get clearance from the parking brake cable.
03-01-2011, 04:22 PM
#3
Guru
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Is this a TIP car by chance? IF so, room is tight. 6 speed cars are no issue as there is plenty of room to swing the axle out of the way to gain access to the inner joint.
03-01-2011, 05:14 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Anyway, I went ahead and removed the other gold cap and during my ensuing struggle I suddenly had seven ***** instead of the usual two
I then removed the outer casing leaving the inner race and cage. Now, the inner race won't budge so I am going to tap with a hammer (no gear puller!)
03-01-2011, 05:30 PM
#5
6 Speed. Perhaps I am doing something wrong. The axle cun be pushed up somewhat but towards the floor there is minimal clearance.
Anyway, I went ahead and removed the other gold cap and during my ensuing struggle I suddenly had seven ***** instead of the usual two I then removed the outer casing leaving the inner race and cage. Now, the inner race won't budge so I am going to tap with a hammer (no gear puller!)
Anyway, I went ahead and removed the other gold cap and during my ensuing struggle I suddenly had seven ***** instead of the usual two
I then removed the outer casing leaving the inner race and cage. Now, the inner race won't budge so I am going to tap with a hammer (no gear puller!)
03-01-2011, 05:58 PM
#6
Burning Brakes
Anyway, I went ahead and removed the other gold cap and during my ensuing struggle I suddenly had seven ***** instead of the usual two I then removed the outer casing leaving the inner race and cage. Now, the inner race won't budge so I am going to tap with a hammer (no gear puller!)
I then removed the outer casing leaving the inner race and cage. Now, the inner race won't budge so I am going to tap with a hammer (no gear puller!)You have to take the inner cold cap off to remove the circlip that his hidden with lots of grease. I've done one car that needed a puller and another where it slid off with hand strength. Good luck with the hammer and go slow not to bind things up...there is not really much play to work with!
First tip: Do note the orientation of the inner race ring as there is a smooth side and a grooved side...I forget which it is but there is a right way for the inner joint to go on in order for it to go far enough on the splines to get the circlip back on.
Second tip: Make sure you have the high temp copper axle spline lube for the axle splines...Porsche has a tube for $40...not sure what a cheaper equivilent is but I'm sure there is something out there.
03-02-2011, 01:21 AM
#7
Super Duper Moderator
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Courtesy of Jason Andreas:
Marc
p.s. and I hope you had 8 *****, not 7!
Trending Topics
03-02-2011, 01:51 AM
#8
right way. It is probably too late for that. All that stuff wares to it's self. Unless you know exactly where each one went it will probably suffer a premature failer at this point, but whatever.
03-02-2011, 01:10 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Almost finished...2 questions
OK, So I have completed the outer boot replace without much fanfare but a giant grease mess. I am about to wrap up the inner joint and have aligned everything as per the above (Correct) photo. Here are my questions:
1. Which side of the inner race is faced to the outside (toward the wheel)? I seem to recall the grooved side pointed out toward the wheel.
2. Assuming the casing is aligned properly with the inner race can the casing be put on regardless of which face is pointing out. Or, put another way, is there a proper orientation of the casing face? I don't want to screw it up!
Thanks to everyone.
1. Which side of the inner race is faced to the outside (toward the wheel)? I seem to recall the grooved side pointed out toward the wheel.
2. Assuming the casing is aligned properly with the inner race can the casing be put on regardless of which face is pointing out. Or, put another way, is there a proper orientation of the casing face? I don't want to screw it up!
Thanks to everyone.
03-02-2011, 03:29 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
OK, So I have completed the outer boot replace without much fanfare but a giant grease mess. I am about to wrap up the inner joint and have aligned everything as per the above (Correct) photo. Here are my questions:
1. Which side of the inner race is faced to the outside (toward the wheel)? I seem to recall the grooved side pointed out toward the wheel.
2. Assuming the casing is aligned properly with the inner race can the casing be put on regardless of which face is pointing out. Or, put another way, is there a proper orientation of the casing face? I don't want to screw it up!
Thanks to everyone.
1. Which side of the inner race is faced to the outside (toward the wheel)? I seem to recall the grooved side pointed out toward the wheel.
2. Assuming the casing is aligned properly with the inner race can the casing be put on regardless of which face is pointing out. Or, put another way, is there a proper orientation of the casing face? I don't want to screw it up!
Thanks to everyone.
Sigh...I tried to warn you of this exact situation in my post above when I wrote:"First tip: Do note the orientation of the inner race ring as there is a smooth side and a grooved side...I forget which it is but there is a right way for the inner joint to go on in order for it to go far enough on the splines to get the circlip back on. "
I don't have my notes on this job in front of me otherwise I'd be able to tell you your answer.
03-02-2011, 03:50 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sigh...I tried to warn you of this exact situation in my post above when I wrote:"First tip: Do note the orientation of the inner race ring as there is a smooth side and a grooved side...I forget which it is but there is a right way for the inner joint to go on in order for it to go far enough on the splines to get the circlip back on. "
I don't have my notes on this job in front of me otherwise I'd be able to tell you your answer.
03-02-2011, 04:37 PM
#12
Three Wheelin'
If you're talking about what I think you are...
The splines inside the inner race are cut so that on one end, the inner race easily slips about a 1/8" onto the shaft splines. Probably meant to get the race on and lined up before pressing it all the way down.
If you turn the inner race around, it won't slip onto the shaft splines at all without a constant pressure.
You can see the difference between the two ends of the inner race splines. At least, this is true for all four of my C4 964 cv's.
Hope that helps.
The splines inside the inner race are cut so that on one end, the inner race easily slips about a 1/8" onto the shaft splines. Probably meant to get the race on and lined up before pressing it all the way down.
If you turn the inner race around, it won't slip onto the shaft splines at all without a constant pressure.
You can see the difference between the two ends of the inner race splines. At least, this is true for all four of my C4 964 cv's.
Hope that helps.
03-02-2011, 05:16 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
If you're talking about what I think you are...
The splines inside the inner race are cut so that on one end, the inner race easily slips about a 1/8" onto the shaft splines. Probably meant to get the race on and lined up before pressing it all the way down.
If you turn the inner race around, it won't slip onto the shaft splines at all without a constant pressure.
You can see the difference between the two ends of the inner race splines. At least, this is true for all four of my C4 964 cv's.
Hope that helps.
The splines inside the inner race are cut so that on one end, the inner race easily slips about a 1/8" onto the shaft splines. Probably meant to get the race on and lined up before pressing it all the way down.
If you turn the inner race around, it won't slip onto the shaft splines at all without a constant pressure.
You can see the difference between the two ends of the inner race splines. At least, this is true for all four of my C4 964 cv's.
Hope that helps.
so, THANKS! That solves that. Now, I an back out to the car to put the circlip on, and wrap this up!.
For those interested the grooved side of the inner race faces out toward the wheel.
THREE CHEERS FOR RENNLIST!!
