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Can the clutch be changed without removing the engine?

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Old 12-15-2010 | 09:46 PM
  #16  
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When I had my clutch replaced, my mechanic pulled the engine and did plenty of other goodies while he was in there!
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Old 12-16-2010 | 10:49 AM
  #17  
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Many thanks all,

Sounds like it's best to remove engine/transmission as a unit since there is always other stuff to do like:

New clutch,
New main seal,
Refresh synchros in the G50,
Replace plugs,
Check/Replace hydraulic lifters,
Replace belt for power steering pump,
What else.....??

993 C2 has about 70k Miles with original DMFW & clutch and is strictly for street driving only.
I plan to replace the FW and clutch with stock parts since going with a SMFW requires a different chip to deal with idling-issues but really doesn't result in more power?
More comparison/info is needed for this like cost to upgrade SMFW vs. DMFW and resulting advantages?
Old 12-16-2010 | 11:18 AM
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To be fair, if you're in a rush, it'll be quicker to drop just the transmission. There's less things to disconnect/reconnect, you'll probably save yourself an hour or so. Which begs the obvious question, why would you want to be in a rush? Take the time to do it right.

Here's a picture of the tranny out, that's the rear main seal in the middle. Notice how tight the clearances are. Both axels, stupid starter box, clutch slave. It was a real PITA to get everything lined up in the air.



Here's a picture of the tranny out by itself. It ain't small or light.



Here's the throw out fork, which you have to install after the engine and tranny have been mated. The porsche manual instructs to tape it to the flywheel, join the engine and tranny, pray it doesn't fall off, then stick your arm through a small hole and insert the pin. Of course, the car is 6 feet off the ground on a lift, so this is done by touch over your head. I'm still amazed that my mechanic got this accomplished on the third try. This nightmare alone is worth dropping the engine with the tranny. Whatever time you saved by leaving the engine in, could be easily lost while trying to reinstall the tranny.



I went with a LWF and am happy with it's results. It stalled for the first 2-3 weeks and was pretty frustrating but once it learned, I've never had a problem since. You can call Steve Weiner and he can explain to you, as he did to me, all the pros/cons of the LWF upgrade and provide all the necessary parts.

Good luck with your project, take lots of pictures and post them when you're done. I'm not sure what your budget is but once you go down the "while I'm in there" slope", the costs can increase exponentially.
Old 12-16-2010 | 12:33 PM
  #19  
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Thanks, Tony,

Just planning ahead for now, no rush.

Did you have to change the chip to ease the idling problem with the FW upgrade?
What type clutch?
Along with the upgraded FW, is there a Sport ALU pressure plate available similar to the Sachs sport clutch for an SC?
Old 12-16-2010 | 12:37 PM
  #20  
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I did not change the ECU. It was bad for a couple of weeks/couple of hundred miles then it was fine.

I think many of the 1995 models have a serious issue with it. I have a 96 and it worked out.

I don't remember exactly the type of clutch or flywheel. Steve W sent me the right parts. You'll have to ask him.
Old 12-16-2010 | 02:00 PM
  #21  
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I did this last week on my my '95. Opted to drop the engine and tranny together. The lightweight flywheel and RS clutch bits are great. The car feels faster, and seems to have more low end torque.
I have a chip from Steve, and have no stalling or drivability issues at all. Love the mod.



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