Which Immobilizer do I have
Thread Starter
Track Day
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Which Immobilizer do I have
Hi Everyone,
I am hoping for some good tips on how to identify the Immobilizer system I have in my car.
I think it is the drive block system, but looking at all the explanations I am just puzzled.
Anyway, my car is a 1995.
When I got it I received a Keyfob from Porsche, which I use to lock and unlock the doors.
If I have not unlocked the door, or removed the key then after a few minutes the engine will not start (or turn) until I have pressed the remote.
I believe all of this drills down to that my car is delivered with the official drive-block system? Agree?
Here is now my problem: When trying to get an extra keyfob programmed for the car my workshop has more or less given up.
They are having a hard time understanding the signs from the car.
1: First of all I have a blinking remote in my dash-clock - This is here all the time when I drive - I believe this means that there is an error on the remote entry module, but where is that fault, or what could it be.
2: When they connect their Bosch tester they are unable to clear the errors on the alarm system. The bosch tester simply tells them that clearing stored alarms is not possible.
Should it be able to do this?
Anyway, due to condition 1 I think the programming fails, and also we can see there is some errors on the tester like open boot etc. but since we cannot clear the alarms can we then trust them?
Any advice greatly appreciated :-)
Nicolai
I am hoping for some good tips on how to identify the Immobilizer system I have in my car.
I think it is the drive block system, but looking at all the explanations I am just puzzled.
Anyway, my car is a 1995.
When I got it I received a Keyfob from Porsche, which I use to lock and unlock the doors.
If I have not unlocked the door, or removed the key then after a few minutes the engine will not start (or turn) until I have pressed the remote.
I believe all of this drills down to that my car is delivered with the official drive-block system? Agree?
Here is now my problem: When trying to get an extra keyfob programmed for the car my workshop has more or less given up.
They are having a hard time understanding the signs from the car.
1: First of all I have a blinking remote in my dash-clock - This is here all the time when I drive - I believe this means that there is an error on the remote entry module, but where is that fault, or what could it be.
2: When they connect their Bosch tester they are unable to clear the errors on the alarm system. The bosch tester simply tells them that clearing stored alarms is not possible.
Should it be able to do this?
Anyway, due to condition 1 I think the programming fails, and also we can see there is some errors on the tester like open boot etc. but since we cannot clear the alarms can we then trust them?
Any advice greatly appreciated :-)
Nicolai
Race Car
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,599
Likes: 3
From: Alabama
Not much help here.
Sounds like you have the drive block/immobiolizer like on the 96+ cars - I have the same thing.
As far as your error, not sure. Check that all your switches (doors, glovebox, hood, engine lid) are good.
Where are you located and maybe someone can suggest a better shop for troubleshooting.
P.S. I had a recent flashing remote while the car was running and apparently it was due to low battery voltage.
Sounds like you have the drive block/immobiolizer like on the 96+ cars - I have the same thing.
As far as your error, not sure. Check that all your switches (doors, glovebox, hood, engine lid) are good.
Where are you located and maybe someone can suggest a better shop for troubleshooting.
P.S. I had a recent flashing remote while the car was running and apparently it was due to low battery voltage.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 662
Likes: 2
You have Drive Block.
Early 95's (mostly basket handle cars) did not have Drive Block, which was introduced mid year, about the time the factory began building the 3rd tail light into the cowl above rear window.
Your car has the OBD-I.....make sure your shop is not trying to diagnose/clear using OBD-II.
Gordo
Early 95's (mostly basket handle cars) did not have Drive Block, which was introduced mid year, about the time the factory began building the 3rd tail light into the cowl above rear window.
Your car has the OBD-I.....make sure your shop is not trying to diagnose/clear using OBD-II.
Gordo
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Northeastern NJ
Hello. Sorry to thread jack but can immobilizer type be determined by build date? My car did not come with a key fob and I have no signs that I have one (at least that I'm aware of). My car has the basket handle and I believe the build date is July of '95.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,471
Likes: 209
From: Tacoma, WA
Yea, you have the normal 993 alarm system. Before you do anything, get the "key code" from the dealer.
Programing the key flob is a PITA, do a search, there are threads on this. It took me over an hour to get mine done, most of the time the alarm was going off. If you mess up programming the remote, the alarm light will blink in the clock.
Also if you have an aftermarket ECU CHip, & it's not for an immoblizer car, the light will blink in the clock.
You can not connect an ODB reader to the car, with the alarm armed, or in standby, Make sure the key is in the car, & you hit the remote before you connect the ODB reader.
Lastly, your alarm module may be going out, you do not want this, it's expensive.
Programing the key flob is a PITA, do a search, there are threads on this. It took me over an hour to get mine done, most of the time the alarm was going off. If you mess up programming the remote, the alarm light will blink in the clock.
Also if you have an aftermarket ECU CHip, & it's not for an immoblizer car, the light will blink in the clock.
You can not connect an ODB reader to the car, with the alarm armed, or in standby, Make sure the key is in the car, & you hit the remote before you connect the ODB reader.
Lastly, your alarm module may be going out, you do not want this, it's expensive.
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Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 785
From: Canada & the Alps
A reputable dealer won't hand it out that easy.
My local dealer wanted to see:
I then easily programmed in 4 remotes.
BTW, its always a good idea to create your own "custom" engine disable system on top of the immobilizer. Being an electronics tech has its advantages.
My local dealer wanted to see:
- the car
- the VIN plate on the dash
- the VIN stamping on the body
- the VIN on the door pillar sticker
- my ownership
- and photo ID
I then easily programmed in 4 remotes.
BTW, its always a good idea to create your own "custom" engine disable system on top of the immobilizer. Being an electronics tech has its advantages.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: Northeastern NJ
Hello again. I just checked the sticker on the drivers door (thanks to a Rennlister's advice) and it says my build date is 7/94. Does this change anything regarding the immobilizer? If my memory serves than I do not have the ype described above.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 5,471
Likes: 209
From: Tacoma, WA
If you do not have a remote key fob, to lock/unlock the doors, then you do not have it. It was a option on early cars, my 95 has it.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 628
Likes: 228
From: Lake Zurich, IL
My 95 has drive block immobilizer and basket handle. (build date ~1/95?) It also has a "Drive Block" decal on the rear side window. So that may also help identify if your car has it.
I can't offer much help on a blinking remote light on the dash except to concur with the idea to check all of the door, trunk, glove compartment sensors connections to the alarm module under the seat....
As far as the remote code (different from the key cutting code), I got mine from the dealer with a phone call. Of course I had taken the car in for service so they knew me as the owner.
wolf76 I would guess you don't have the immobilizer. 7/94 sounds like an early build 95.
nosolling, I can confirm if the alarm system senses any issues it will not allow the remotes to be reprogrammed. Those issues need to be resolved before the programing sequence can be entered.
I can't offer much help on a blinking remote light on the dash except to concur with the idea to check all of the door, trunk, glove compartment sensors connections to the alarm module under the seat....
As far as the remote code (different from the key cutting code), I got mine from the dealer with a phone call. Of course I had taken the car in for service so they knew me as the owner.
wolf76 I would guess you don't have the immobilizer. 7/94 sounds like an early build 95.
nosolling, I can confirm if the alarm system senses any issues it will not allow the remotes to be reprogrammed. Those issues need to be resolved before the programing sequence can be entered.
Last edited by DanQ; Dec 7, 2010 at 04:26 PM.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,683
Likes: 785
From: Canada & the Alps
Check section 90 of the Porsche Repair Manual for further info on the alarm/immobilizer system. There is a diagnosis section as well as a how-to program the remotes.
Those PDF repair manuals are floating around on the internet.
Those PDF repair manuals are floating around on the internet.