Notices
993 Forum 1995-1998
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

1995 993 vs 1996 993

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-14-2010 | 12:49 PM
  #1  
cv997's Avatar
cv997
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 3
Default 1995 993 vs 1996 993

Newbie to the forum and have a question about a potential 993 purchase. I've noticed that the components in the boot (around the engine) are set up different in a '95 993 and a '96 993. Does anyone know the reason for this?

Also, is one year better than the other?

I plan to use this car as a DD --- any recommendations for or against this?

Cheers.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 12:58 PM
  #2  
dcdude's Avatar
dcdude
Drifting
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,733
Likes: 3
From: South Bay, Los Angeles
Default

Welcome to the forum! There is much written on this. 96-98 have a whole 'nuther intake system called Varioram that yields 14 more HP. This is offset by potentially more expensive maintenance and a more complicated security system. So many of us don't value one year more than any other.

Overall condition, maintenance and records are what matter most.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 12:58 PM
  #3  
Rinty's Avatar
Rinty
Drifting
 
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,650
Likes: 3
From: Calgary, Alberta
Default

Welcome.

I have a '96 but quite frankly, if I was buying now, I would get an early '95 without the immobilizer, and that has had the wiring recall done.

But most guys here will probably tell you to get the later version because it has VRam. Regardless, both years are good. If you're in Canada, getting a +15 year old one will circumvent having to deal with RIV.

There are lengthy discussions here about use as a DD, with the members basically split on it.

Good luck.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 01:01 PM
  #4  
jtilden's Avatar
jtilden
Racer
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 339
Likes: 1
From: Copperas Cove, TX
Default

welcome aboard...the engine in the 95 is actually a carry over from the 964 series. As far as one being better than the other, there are many variables to consider. The 95 model year was not plagued with the ODB II issues of later models. Do a search for ODBII and you will see what I mean. Others will chime in as well. As far as DD duties, a properly maintained car can be a very reliable car to drive regularly. Hope this helps.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 01:06 PM
  #5  
cv997's Avatar
cv997
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 3
Default

Thanks for all the great info.

I've found a '95 993 C2 that I plan to purchase on Monday. It seems like the '95 MY is the way to go. Looking forward to posting some pics!

Also, what would a reasonable price be for a mint '95 C2 in Polar Silver with under 30k miles?
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 01:15 PM
  #6  
IXLR8's Avatar
IXLR8
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 8,551
Likes: 712
From: Canada & the Alps
Default

Originally Posted by cv997
I've found a '95 993 C2 that I plan to purchase on Monday.
You might want to check out the Porsche VIN Decoder and Porsche Options Decoder so that you can confirm things and what options are in the car.

Check for the label on the underside of the front hood.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 01:20 PM
  #7  
dcdude's Avatar
dcdude
Drifting
 
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,733
Likes: 3
From: South Bay, Los Angeles
Default

If it's truly mint, well maintained with records and a clean pre-purchase inspection, up to $34K with black interior; $32K for other colors. Others may say less, but truly perfect cars do bring more money.

I would still be on the lookout for a car that has suspension and 18" wheels and exhaust done. Those are expensive mods that you're likely to do anyway. Many of us would gladly have that in lieu of low miles.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 01:59 PM
  #8  
Spidey 993
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Originally Posted by dcdude
If it's truly mint, well maintained with records and a clean pre-purchase inspection, up to $34K with black interior; $32K for other colors. Others may say less, but truly perfect cars do bring more money.

I would still be on the lookout for a car that has suspension and 18" wheels and exhaust done. Those are expensive mods that you're likely to do anyway. Many of us would gladly have that in lieu of low miles.
I just purchased mine a few weeks ago, and looking around I agree with dcdude on prices and mods. May even see them upto 38k asking, however not sure what it actually sells for.


Best of Luck and welcome!
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 02:24 PM
  #9  
cv997's Avatar
cv997
Thread Starter
Advanced
 
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 52
Likes: 3
Default

The car is a 1 owner (clean Carfax) vehicle Polar Silver on grey. The seller is asking $35k shipped. Sound reasonable? I have not been able to find a low mileage Polar Silver car (without accidents on the Carfax) for anywhere close to $32k.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 04:13 PM
  #10  
timothymoffat's Avatar
timothymoffat
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7,636
Likes: 1,127
From: Rainforest (Vancouver, BC)
Default

Originally Posted by dcdude
Overall condition, maintenance and records are what matter most.
Couldn't agree more. (I have a late 95 C2 coupe and a 97 C2 coupe for variety)

Originally Posted by jtilden
the engine in the 95 is actually a carry over from the 964 series.
Ummm......not really. A development of 964 motor but not completely carryover. Hydraulic lifters come to mind.

Originally Posted by IXLR8
You might want to check out the Porsche VIN Decoder and Porsche Options Decoder so that you can confirm things and what options are in the car.

Check for the label on the underside of the front hood.
Good advice, lack of decal could be indicative of prior damage. Also good to know what equipment should be on the car.

$32K for a sub 30Kmile 95 isn't too high if all is in order. A thorough PPI by a respected Porsche independant shop is key.

Good luck with the hunt! Post pics when you strike gold (or silver in your case)!
Old 11-14-2010 | 04:30 PM
  #11  
NC TRACKRAT's Avatar
NC TRACKRAT
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,996
Likes: 479
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Default

Sounds good to me. If it's what you want, then buy it. If it's not too far away and you have the time, go get it and drive it home. It'll be a negotiating point to shave off some $, plus you'll have "bonding time".
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 07:01 PM
  #12  
JM993's Avatar
JM993
Banned
 
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,361
Likes: 5
From: SF Bay Area
Default

Originally Posted by Rinty
Welcome.

I have a '96 but quite frankly, if I was buying now, I would get an early '95 without the immobilizer, and that has had the wiring recall done.

But most guys here will probably tell you to get the later version because it has VRam. Regardless, both years are good. If you're in Canada, getting a +15 year old one will circumvent having to deal with RIV.

There are lengthy discussions here about use as a DD, with the members basically split on it.

Good luck.
Don't feel bad about not getting Vram with the 95. You can always add it later.....

Cheers,
Joe
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 08:32 PM
  #13  
993/907's Avatar
993/907
Pro
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 662
Likes: 1
Default

+1 the DriveBlock (immobilizer) is an expensive pain in the butt when it goes south.
I spent about $3k getting it resolved on my late 95.
Early 95's (most basket handle cars) do not have the immobilzer.
Late 95's with the immobilzer can not easily remove the function; 96 & up can be "flashed" to eliminate the immobilizer.

Last edited by 993/907; 11-14-2010 at 08:32 PM. Reason: grammer
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 08:44 PM
  #14  
Bill Verburg's Avatar
Bill Verburg
Addict
Rennlist Member

 
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 12,423
Likes: 602
Default

Originally Posted by 993/907
+1 the DriveBlock (immobilizer) is an expensive pain in the butt when it goes south.
I spent about $3k getting it resolved on my late 95.
Early 95's (most basket handle cars) do not have the immobilzer.
Late 95's with the immobilzer can not easily remove the function; 96 & up can be "flashed" to eliminate the immobilizer.
a '96 will be hard to do but for others a chip and fuel pump relay mod are all that is needed.

the chip has to be one that is not expecting an immobilizer signal, this is easy as most aftermarket chips can be purchased this way.
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)
Old 11-14-2010 | 10:29 PM
  #15  
AOW162435's Avatar
AOW162435
Seared
Rennlist Member
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 16,787
Likes: 419
From: Ellicott City, MD
Default

When shopping for my 993 back in '05, I specifically searched for a an early-build '95. While I was not keen on the "basket handle", I quickly learned to accept it after finding my 7/94-build relic. To me, the extra power found in the later Varioram versions would quickly lose its luster should the car start having Immobilizer issues or OBD-II quirks....

I've been supremely pleased with my choice, and the car continues to astound with its robust construction, ease of maintenance, and bullet-proof reliability.

Should something ever happen to render my beloved Dung Beetle inoperative, I'd search long & hard for another early '95. Pretty simple.


Andreas
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)



All times are GMT -3. The time now is 05:39 PM.