1995 993 vs 1996 993
#1
1995 993 vs 1996 993
Newbie to the forum and have a question about a potential 993 purchase. I've noticed that the components in the boot (around the engine) are set up different in a '95 993 and a '96 993. Does anyone know the reason for this?
Also, is one year better than the other?
I plan to use this car as a DD --- any recommendations for or against this?
Cheers.
Also, is one year better than the other?
I plan to use this car as a DD --- any recommendations for or against this?
Cheers.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#2
Welcome to the forum! There is much written on this. 96-98 have a whole 'nuther intake system called Varioram that yields 14 more HP. This is offset by potentially more expensive maintenance and a more complicated security system. So many of us don't value one year more than any other.
Overall condition, maintenance and records are what matter most.
Overall condition, maintenance and records are what matter most.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#3
Welcome.
I have a '96 but quite frankly, if I was buying now, I would get an early '95 without the immobilizer, and that has had the wiring recall done.
But most guys here will probably tell you to get the later version because it has VRam. Regardless, both years are good. If you're in Canada, getting a +15 year old one will circumvent having to deal with RIV.
There are lengthy discussions here about use as a DD, with the members basically split on it.
Good luck.
I have a '96 but quite frankly, if I was buying now, I would get an early '95 without the immobilizer, and that has had the wiring recall done.
But most guys here will probably tell you to get the later version because it has VRam. Regardless, both years are good. If you're in Canada, getting a +15 year old one will circumvent having to deal with RIV.
There are lengthy discussions here about use as a DD, with the members basically split on it.
Good luck.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#4
welcome aboard...the engine in the 95 is actually a carry over from the 964 series. As far as one being better than the other, there are many variables to consider. The 95 model year was not plagued with the ODB II issues of later models. Do a search for ODBII and you will see what I mean. Others will chime in as well. As far as DD duties, a properly maintained car can be a very reliable car to drive regularly. Hope this helps.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#5
Thanks for all the great info.
I've found a '95 993 C2 that I plan to purchase on Monday. It seems like the '95 MY is the way to go. Looking forward to posting some pics!
Also, what would a reasonable price be for a mint '95 C2 in Polar Silver with under 30k miles?
I've found a '95 993 C2 that I plan to purchase on Monday. It seems like the '95 MY is the way to go. Looking forward to posting some pics!
Also, what would a reasonable price be for a mint '95 C2 in Polar Silver with under 30k miles?
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#6
You might want to check out the Porsche VIN Decoder and Porsche Options Decoder so that you can confirm things and what options are in the car.
Check for the label on the underside of the front hood.
Check for the label on the underside of the front hood.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#7
If it's truly mint, well maintained with records and a clean pre-purchase inspection, up to $34K with black interior; $32K for other colors. Others may say less, but truly perfect cars do bring more money.
I would still be on the lookout for a car that has suspension and 18" wheels and exhaust done. Those are expensive mods that you're likely to do anyway. Many of us would gladly have that in lieu of low miles.
I would still be on the lookout for a car that has suspension and 18" wheels and exhaust done. Those are expensive mods that you're likely to do anyway. Many of us would gladly have that in lieu of low miles.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
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#8
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If it's truly mint, well maintained with records and a clean pre-purchase inspection, up to $34K with black interior; $32K for other colors. Others may say less, but truly perfect cars do bring more money.
I would still be on the lookout for a car that has suspension and 18" wheels and exhaust done. Those are expensive mods that you're likely to do anyway. Many of us would gladly have that in lieu of low miles.
I would still be on the lookout for a car that has suspension and 18" wheels and exhaust done. Those are expensive mods that you're likely to do anyway. Many of us would gladly have that in lieu of low miles.
Best of Luck and welcome!
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#9
The car is a 1 owner (clean Carfax) vehicle Polar Silver on grey. The seller is asking $35k shipped. Sound reasonable? I have not been able to find a low mileage Polar Silver car (without accidents on the Carfax) for anywhere close to $32k.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#10
Couldn't agree more. (I have a late 95 C2 coupe and a 97 C2 coupe for variety)
Ummm......not really. A development of 964 motor but not completely carryover. Hydraulic lifters come to mind.
Good advice, lack of decal could be indicative of prior damage. Also good to know what equipment should be on the car.
$32K for a sub 30Kmile 95 isn't too high if all is in order. A thorough PPI by a respected Porsche independant shop is key.
Good luck with the hunt! Post pics when you strike gold (or silver in your case)!
Ummm......not really. A development of 964 motor but not completely carryover. Hydraulic lifters come to mind.
You might want to check out the Porsche VIN Decoder and Porsche Options Decoder so that you can confirm things and what options are in the car.
Check for the label on the underside of the front hood.
Check for the label on the underside of the front hood.
$32K for a sub 30Kmile 95 isn't too high if all is in order. A thorough PPI by a respected Porsche independant shop is key.
Good luck with the hunt! Post pics when you strike gold (or silver in your case)!
#11
Sounds good to me. If it's what you want, then buy it. If it's not too far away and you have the time, go get it and drive it home. It'll be a negotiating point to shave off some $, plus you'll have "bonding time".
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#12
Welcome.
I have a '96 but quite frankly, if I was buying now, I would get an early '95 without the immobilizer, and that has had the wiring recall done.
But most guys here will probably tell you to get the later version because it has VRam. Regardless, both years are good. If you're in Canada, getting a +15 year old one will circumvent having to deal with RIV.
There are lengthy discussions here about use as a DD, with the members basically split on it.
Good luck.
I have a '96 but quite frankly, if I was buying now, I would get an early '95 without the immobilizer, and that has had the wiring recall done.
But most guys here will probably tell you to get the later version because it has VRam. Regardless, both years are good. If you're in Canada, getting a +15 year old one will circumvent having to deal with RIV.
There are lengthy discussions here about use as a DD, with the members basically split on it.
Good luck.
Cheers,
Joe
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#13
+1 the DriveBlock (immobilizer) is an expensive pain in the butt when it goes south.
I spent about $3k getting it resolved on my late 95.
Early 95's (most basket handle cars) do not have the immobilzer.
Late 95's with the immobilzer can not easily remove the function; 96 & up can be "flashed" to eliminate the immobilizer.
I spent about $3k getting it resolved on my late 95.
Early 95's (most basket handle cars) do not have the immobilzer.
Late 95's with the immobilzer can not easily remove the function; 96 & up can be "flashed" to eliminate the immobilizer.
Last edited by 993/907; 11-14-2010 at 08:32 PM. Reason: grammer
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#14
+1 the DriveBlock (immobilizer) is an expensive pain in the butt when it goes south.
I spent about $3k getting it resolved on my late 95.
Early 95's (most basket handle cars) do not have the immobilzer.
Late 95's with the immobilzer can not easily remove the function; 96 & up can be "flashed" to eliminate the immobilizer.
I spent about $3k getting it resolved on my late 95.
Early 95's (most basket handle cars) do not have the immobilzer.
Late 95's with the immobilzer can not easily remove the function; 96 & up can be "flashed" to eliminate the immobilizer.
the chip has to be one that is not expecting an immobilizer signal, this is easy as most aftermarket chips can be purchased this way.
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alanleffler (10-15-2021)
#15
When shopping for my 993 back in '05, I specifically searched for a an early-build '95. While I was not keen on the "basket handle", I quickly learned to accept it after finding my 7/94-build relic. To me, the extra power found in the later Varioram versions would quickly lose its luster should the car start having Immobilizer issues or OBD-II quirks....
I've been supremely pleased with my choice, and the car continues to astound with its robust construction, ease of maintenance, and bullet-proof reliability.
Should something ever happen to render my beloved Dung Beetle inoperative, I'd search long & hard for another early '95. Pretty simple.
Andreas
I've been supremely pleased with my choice, and the car continues to astound with its robust construction, ease of maintenance, and bullet-proof reliability.
Should something ever happen to render my beloved Dung Beetle inoperative, I'd search long & hard for another early '95. Pretty simple.
Andreas
The following users liked this post:
alanleffler (10-15-2021)