Autocross - best tire/wheel combo for 96 cab?
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Thanks for the continued info.
I understand your point... guess that's why we see used PSS9's with low miles for sale from time to time.
Looking at the StarSpecs, you reccomend the 225 on the front compared to the 205 stock size? If that's the case would it be a 225/50 or do you have to adjust the ratio?
On the avitar pic, both are mine - 96 cab stock with 41k and a 65 Pontiac GTO restored stock.
Thanks again to all
I understand your point... guess that's why we see used PSS9's with low miles for sale from time to time.
Looking at the StarSpecs, you reccomend the 225 on the front compared to the 205 stock size? If that's the case would it be a 225/50 or do you have to adjust the ratio?
On the avitar pic, both are mine - 96 cab stock with 41k and a 65 Pontiac GTO restored stock.
Thanks again to all
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225 on the front, absolutely It would be 225/25-17 to keep approximately the same tire diameter.
993 understeers fiercely with 205/255 combo. 225/255 makes it more neutral. My previous cab ended up with that tire combo, Bilstein HDs and H&R springs and Turbo sway bars for suspension. That was a street car with very occasional autocross, the combo seemed pretty decent, albeit the springs and shocks didn't really work together perfectly.
993 understeers fiercely with 205/255 combo. 225/255 makes it more neutral. My previous cab ended up with that tire combo, Bilstein HDs and H&R springs and Turbo sway bars for suspension. That was a street car with very occasional autocross, the combo seemed pretty decent, albeit the springs and shocks didn't really work together perfectly.
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Just want to confirm this before I order these tires.
Stock 205/50/17 has a diameter of 636.77mm
The 225/25/17 you mention above has a diameter of 544.06...
Shouldn't I go with the 225/45/17 with a diameter of 634.23? That's within .4% of stock.
Final question - is there any problem with these tires clearing with the 20mm additional width on a stock 17 in cup wheel?
thanks
Stock 205/50/17 has a diameter of 636.77mm
The 225/25/17 you mention above has a diameter of 544.06...
Shouldn't I go with the 225/45/17 with a diameter of 634.23? That's within .4% of stock.
Final question - is there any problem with these tires clearing with the 20mm additional width on a stock 17 in cup wheel?
thanks
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Just want to confirm this before I order these tires.
Stock 205/50/17 has a diameter of 636.77mm
The 225/25/17 you mention above has a diameter of 544.06...
Shouldn't I go with the 225/45/17 with a diameter of 634.23? That's within .4% of stock.
Final question - is there any problem with these tires clearing with the 20mm additional width on a stock 17 in cup wheel?
thanks
Stock 205/50/17 has a diameter of 636.77mm
The 225/25/17 you mention above has a diameter of 544.06...
Shouldn't I go with the 225/45/17 with a diameter of 634.23? That's within .4% of stock.
Final question - is there any problem with these tires clearing with the 20mm additional width on a stock 17 in cup wheel?
thanks
#36
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Just want to confirm this before I order these tires.
Stock 205/50/17 has a diameter of 636.77mm
The 225/25/17 you mention above has a diameter of 544.06...
Shouldn't I go with the 225/45/17 with a diameter of 634.23? That's within .4% of stock.
Final question - is there any problem with these tires clearing with the 20mm additional width on a stock 17 in cup wheel?
thanks
Stock 205/50/17 has a diameter of 636.77mm
The 225/25/17 you mention above has a diameter of 544.06...
Shouldn't I go with the 225/45/17 with a diameter of 634.23? That's within .4% of stock.
Final question - is there any problem with these tires clearing with the 20mm additional width on a stock 17 in cup wheel?
thanks
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Sorry
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You will have no clearance issues. I've ran these on the front and I think quite a few of us here do, that's where I got the idea in the first place.
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Tires on their way for the stock wheels - For the price, and my skill level, going with the StarSpecs.
On install, what is everyone's suggestion on camber and other variables. I plan on driving only in good weather - roughly 75% street - 25% autocross.
I've read that -2 to -3 degrees is that way to go onthe front???
thanks
On install, what is everyone's suggestion on camber and other variables. I plan on driving only in good weather - roughly 75% street - 25% autocross.
I've read that -2 to -3 degrees is that way to go onthe front???
thanks
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Do not change tires. Stick (no pun intended) with the same tires you have for at least a few events. Just put more pressure into them, say 36-40 front, 40-46 rear. In the same vein, do not make _any_ changes to the car. Learn what the car does and what you want to change and why. Specifically, do not even consider changing wheels right now, you have no idea how the classing would be affected with different clubs.
This is my abridged thought after 11 years of autocrossing 20-30 events a year.
PS. There is a sticker on my car that says: "Autocrossing - as addictive as drugs, but more expensive".
This is my abridged thought after 11 years of autocrossing 20-30 events a year.
PS. There is a sticker on my car that says: "Autocrossing - as addictive as drugs, but more expensive".
I did my first autocross recently with my local PCA chapter, and several of the experienced autocrossers/racers told me to take air out of the tire. We actually lowered it to below 30. I have 18" Advan08 on the car, which are pretty nice. But I am confused about what the right thing to do would be. To add air, or to let air out, and why?
Any thoughts?
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I drive 18" wheels (Volk's in avatar) so I believe Star Specs are available for them. I have no idea about 17's though.
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Ah, air pressure. The basic religious debate of racers everywhere, I think ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Well, there is no right answer. Essentially, think of it this way. There is a range of pressures at which a tire would work well on a given surface for a given car setup. Let's say that for a specific tire it would be from 30 psi to 40 psi. In that range you sort of (not exactly) get more grip if you lower the pressure. This is similar to effectively softening the springs at that end of the car. Outside of that range any lowering or increasing will cause a fairly quick loss of grip.
So, why are things not simple? Because they depend on car setup, temperature, humidity, surface, hell, they depend on the course itself as well. On a colder or wet day you want a soft spring and lower pressure to get some grip and to heat up the tire quicker. On a hot day on concrete surface you want more pressure to not overheat the tire by the end of the run.
The bottom line? I know what the "right" pressures are for Kumho V710 for my 2,100 lb CSP Miata on a broken asphalt of an old airfield where we run. it happens to be 28 front and 25.5 rear (0.5 psi is an inside joke, it gives me psychological advantage as in "our amplifiers go to 11"). The same tire on a different car on the same surface on the same day will be different. I just went to Hoosiers A6 and started with 33/31 pressure, which seems to be close to the truth for that tire, but it'll take me 4-5 events to even begin to feel how they work.
So... the bottom line is - ask local PCA people who might run Advan 08s what they do for pressure. Take it as a starting point. Put chalk marks on the sides of your tires. See what they look like after a few runs. If tires do not work their shoulders, lower pressure.
Remember, in a 993 the front to rear balance is most important as you'll end up steering the car with your right foot once you get fast. You can't just get "ideal" grip on one end and be happy, you have to be cognizant of what the other end is doing. And, oh, btw, tire pressure seriously depends on your driving style. You see the equation with many unknowns? I do.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Well, there is no right answer. Essentially, think of it this way. There is a range of pressures at which a tire would work well on a given surface for a given car setup. Let's say that for a specific tire it would be from 30 psi to 40 psi. In that range you sort of (not exactly) get more grip if you lower the pressure. This is similar to effectively softening the springs at that end of the car. Outside of that range any lowering or increasing will cause a fairly quick loss of grip.
So, why are things not simple? Because they depend on car setup, temperature, humidity, surface, hell, they depend on the course itself as well. On a colder or wet day you want a soft spring and lower pressure to get some grip and to heat up the tire quicker. On a hot day on concrete surface you want more pressure to not overheat the tire by the end of the run.
The bottom line? I know what the "right" pressures are for Kumho V710 for my 2,100 lb CSP Miata on a broken asphalt of an old airfield where we run. it happens to be 28 front and 25.5 rear (0.5 psi is an inside joke, it gives me psychological advantage as in "our amplifiers go to 11"). The same tire on a different car on the same surface on the same day will be different. I just went to Hoosiers A6 and started with 33/31 pressure, which seems to be close to the truth for that tire, but it'll take me 4-5 events to even begin to feel how they work.
So... the bottom line is - ask local PCA people who might run Advan 08s what they do for pressure. Take it as a starting point. Put chalk marks on the sides of your tires. See what they look like after a few runs. If tires do not work their shoulders, lower pressure.
Remember, in a 993 the front to rear balance is most important as you'll end up steering the car with your right foot once you get fast. You can't just get "ideal" grip on one end and be happy, you have to be cognizant of what the other end is doing. And, oh, btw, tire pressure seriously depends on your driving style. You see the equation with many unknowns? I do.
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On autocross tires...
If we take the race rubber out of the equation (I personally run on V710s or A6s, but have done enough street tire autocrossing to have some idea), things boil down to a pair of tires today on the National level - Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec and Yokohama AD008.
<snip>
The bottom line of this rant is simple. Do not invent the wheel. This is a good time to be a lemming and use the same tires that everyone uses. And, oh, it ain't PS/2 or any other Michelin.
If we take the race rubber out of the equation (I personally run on V710s or A6s, but have done enough street tire autocrossing to have some idea), things boil down to a pair of tires today on the National level - Dunlop Direzza Z1 Star Spec and Yokohama AD008.
<snip>
The bottom line of this rant is simple. Do not invent the wheel. This is a good time to be a lemming and use the same tires that everyone uses. And, oh, it ain't PS/2 or any other Michelin.
I'm currently using either Ventus V12's or AD07s
Both sets are close to being used up and next tires will either be AD08s or Ecsta XS ku36s.
i run a wide body car so sizing is a bit more challenging.
AD08 would be 235 / 295
Ecstas would be 245 / 315
Right now i like the AD07s better than the V12's for everything other than NVH.
The yoko's grip / wear / resist heat smearing better than the V12's, (they better for nearly 2X the price!
V12's work well for 2 - 3 AX laps, then smear. I don't like them so well at a 20 minute track run session.
For pure street type tires used on the AX or small track environment, i think the yoko's are hard to beat......................... but the Ecstas also seem appealing.
Do you have any feedback directly concerning the Ecstas as compared to the yokos?
Thanks
Craig
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Craig, I've driven a Miata on Kumho XS. Did not like it one bit. Nor did the owner. I don;t think XS holds a candle to either Z1s or AD-08s. And I say it as a big Kumho fan (now almost a former Kumho fan, unfortunately).
BTW, all street tires need to be sprayed after a few runs. Especially in Cali where it's hot and I think you guys run on concrete? They get very greasy very fast. At local PCA events where they divide groups into sub-groups and the runs are about 2-3 minutes apart sometimes... it's pretty bad even on race rubber and sheer terror on street rubber on a heavier car (I've ran my previous 993 cab on Azenis for several events).
BTW, all street tires need to be sprayed after a few runs. Especially in Cali where it's hot and I think you guys run on concrete? They get very greasy very fast. At local PCA events where they divide groups into sub-groups and the runs are about 2-3 minutes apart sometimes... it's pretty bad even on race rubber and sheer terror on street rubber on a heavier car (I've ran my previous 993 cab on Azenis for several events).
#44
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Ah, air pressure. The basic religious debate of racers everywhere, I think ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Well, there is no right answer. Essentially, think of it this way. There is a range of pressures at which a tire would work well on a given surface for a given car setup. Let's say that for a specific tire it would be from 30 psi to 40 psi. In that range you sort of (not exactly) get more grip if you lower the pressure. This is similar to effectively softening the springs at that end of the car. Outside of that range any lowering or increasing will cause a fairly quick loss of grip.
So, why are things not simple? Because they depend on car setup, temperature, humidity, surface, hell, they depend on the course itself as well. On a colder or wet day you want a soft spring and lower pressure to get some grip and to heat up the tire quicker. On a hot day on concrete surface you want more pressure to not overheat the tire by the end of the run.
The bottom line? I know what the "right" pressures are for Kumho V710 for my 2,100 lb CSP Miata on a broken asphalt of an old airfield where we run. it happens to be 28 front and 25.5 rear (0.5 psi is an inside joke, it gives me psychological advantage as in "our amplifiers go to 11"). The same tire on a different car on the same surface on the same day will be different. I just went to Hoosiers A6 and started with 33/31 pressure, which seems to be close to the truth for that tire, but it'll take me 4-5 events to even begin to feel how they work.
So... the bottom line is - ask local PCA people who might run Advan 08s what they do for pressure. Take it as a starting point. Put chalk marks on the sides of your tires. See what they look like after a few runs. If tires do not work their shoulders, lower pressure.
Remember, in a 993 the front to rear balance is most important as you'll end up steering the car with your right foot once you get fast. You can't just get "ideal" grip on one end and be happy, you have to be cognizant of what the other end is doing. And, oh, btw, tire pressure seriously depends on your driving style. You see the equation with many unknowns? I do.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Well, there is no right answer. Essentially, think of it this way. There is a range of pressures at which a tire would work well on a given surface for a given car setup. Let's say that for a specific tire it would be from 30 psi to 40 psi. In that range you sort of (not exactly) get more grip if you lower the pressure. This is similar to effectively softening the springs at that end of the car. Outside of that range any lowering or increasing will cause a fairly quick loss of grip.
So, why are things not simple? Because they depend on car setup, temperature, humidity, surface, hell, they depend on the course itself as well. On a colder or wet day you want a soft spring and lower pressure to get some grip and to heat up the tire quicker. On a hot day on concrete surface you want more pressure to not overheat the tire by the end of the run.
The bottom line? I know what the "right" pressures are for Kumho V710 for my 2,100 lb CSP Miata on a broken asphalt of an old airfield where we run. it happens to be 28 front and 25.5 rear (0.5 psi is an inside joke, it gives me psychological advantage as in "our amplifiers go to 11"). The same tire on a different car on the same surface on the same day will be different. I just went to Hoosiers A6 and started with 33/31 pressure, which seems to be close to the truth for that tire, but it'll take me 4-5 events to even begin to feel how they work.
So... the bottom line is - ask local PCA people who might run Advan 08s what they do for pressure. Take it as a starting point. Put chalk marks on the sides of your tires. See what they look like after a few runs. If tires do not work their shoulders, lower pressure.
Remember, in a 993 the front to rear balance is most important as you'll end up steering the car with your right foot once you get fast. You can't just get "ideal" grip on one end and be happy, you have to be cognizant of what the other end is doing. And, oh, btw, tire pressure seriously depends on your driving style. You see the equation with many unknowns? I do.
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#45
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Funfer, you're just not pushing hard enough ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
In my experience a 993 on street tires works them rear tires pretty hard. You kind of point with the steering wheel and then finely position the car with the gas pedal. Especially in longer steady state turns. Which mean that the rear is always slightly sliding. Plus I have not figured out a way of braking a heavy car on street tires without getting... umm... hot.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
In my experience a 993 on street tires works them rear tires pretty hard. You kind of point with the steering wheel and then finely position the car with the gas pedal. Especially in longer steady state turns. Which mean that the rear is always slightly sliding. Plus I have not figured out a way of braking a heavy car on street tires without getting... umm... hot.