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Thanks, I will check on those things as well. Not scheduled until tomorrow but just going through the list of items fixed/replaced either under or outside warranty.
Dual Mass Flywheel can go bad causing a P300 series random misfire Check Engine Light. I had this issue but fixed it by installing a LWF.
Sorry to hijack the thread. I get a random CEL with random misfires. P300, 301,302, etc, my clutch is near the end of its useful life. I changed all the usual suspects, ISV, o2, MAF, wires, belts. I heard about the DMF causing this and I'm hoping it will be fixed when I upgrade to the rs clutch and LWF. My car has a low idle when warm around 740 rpm, it gets better with ac on as it bumps the idle up slightly. Did you also have this problem? How did you know it was the flywheel?
Sorry to hijack the thread. I get a random CEL with random misfires. P300, 301,302, etc, my clutch is near the end of its useful life. I changed all the usual suspects, ISV, o2, MAF, wires, belts. I heard about the DMF causing this and I'm hoping it will be fixed when I upgrade to the rs clutch and LWF. My car has a low idle when warm around 740 rpm, it gets better with ac on as it bumps the idle up slightly. Did you also have this problem? How did you know it was the flywheel?
I did plugs, distributors, rotors, wires, etc, and would still occasionally get a CEL code P300, 301, 302, etc. Seemed to always occur when the car was at idle, fully warmed up, and waiting to go out for another DE session. When my clutch started to slip I replaced the DMF with a LWF and have never had the CEL come on since. That was a year and a half ago and 7000 mi. While not conclusive, I am convinced my DMF was bad.
If you aren't going to drive frequently make sure you invest in a battery charger/maintainer. These cars have a tendency to eat batteries when stored and not driven frequently. Make sure the charger has a float mode to avoid over charging.
FYI, I replaced all my window switches at the end of last season (that was November for me in Toronto). I was going to go OEM like I prefer to do with all parts but the $70/unit cost seemed crazy. I ended up getting $10/unit switches and they look fine and are still working like they should. Saved $190.
Excessive oil consumption, due to valve guides, rear tire wear, control arm bushings, driver door restraint mechanisms breaks, front & rear window squeaks, rear window cracks. Oil leaks.
Valve guide wear leads to top end rebuild. $8,000+ Some mechanics say a 60000 service on a 993 is a top end rebuild though that hasn't been the experience of many here. You never know of course so you should always be prepared for that possible expense.
Most common 993 issue is........ Everything else you own (Cars, house, hobbies, ect..) goes to crap once you buy one because of the time you will spend driving it and modding it!