Oil Leak - base of intake manifold...?
04-16-2013, 04:42 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Looks like these can be ordered online here:
http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/DNA-950/
04-16-2013, 05:11 PM
#32
Three Wheelin'
04-16-2013, 09:43 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Are QTY 2 needed, or just 1? If QTY 2, which other part besides #25 in the diagram?
Looks like these can be ordered online here:
http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/DNA-950/
Looks like these can be ordered online here:
http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/DNA-950/
I'm no seal expert, (other than knowing that newfies club the baby ones for fur and seal flipper pie) but that link looks like the right one. Price is right compared with 9.60 (Sonnen) and 16.25 (Pelican) but then of course it's not genuine Porsche, surely worth at least a 300% premium.
04-17-2013, 01:27 AM
#36
Rennlist Member
OK, I have my engine out and varioram removed to fix this leak, (which has made a huge mess of the shroud and intakes) so I took a look at mine. K722070, your memory is good, as are Paul902's instincts. There is only ONE of these seals on the butterfly valve shaft.
No idea why 2 of these are spec'd in Katalog (see pic below), found it in the manual which says just one. There is a detente on the shaft right next to the flap that looks like it was made for an o-ring, but too small diameter for this seal.
BTW if you're in there anyway, the seal for the slide valve fork shaft is also a replacement item, 8x12x9, qty 2. Just found this out thanks to this thread!
EDIT: have some doubts that the seal dimensions for shaft on fork of varioram "side valve" aka trumpet is as stated in manual - 8x12x9 is a pretty thick seal, almost verging on being a hose... Wonder if it's a mis-print and should read 8x12x3, same as flapper seal. I will check mine when time permits but if anyone knows, feel free to chime in!
No idea why 2 of these are spec'd in Katalog (see pic below), found it in the manual which says just one. There is a detente on the shaft right next to the flap that looks like it was made for an o-ring, but too small diameter for this seal.
BTW if you're in there anyway, the seal for the slide valve fork shaft is also a replacement item, 8x12x9, qty 2. Just found this out thanks to this thread!
EDIT: have some doubts that the seal dimensions for shaft on fork of varioram "side valve" aka trumpet is as stated in manual - 8x12x9 is a pretty thick seal, almost verging on being a hose... Wonder if it's a mis-print and should read 8x12x3, same as flapper seal. I will check mine when time permits but if anyone knows, feel free to chime in!
Last edited by bcameron59; 04-17-2013 at 03:49 PM.
04-17-2013, 04:18 PM
#38
Rennlist Member
Paul, the fork is part of varioram system, opens and closes the sliding tubes (sometimes called "trombones") that change the air intake path. Servicing requires disassembly of the varioram, excerpt from shop manual shown below, the fork/shaft is #17, seal is #16.
This component not shown in Katalog, but if you look at illustration 107-12 you can see the extermal shaft/lever sticking out of the top of the varioram assembly - follow the lines from the actuator arms on part nos. 4 and 6.
BTW If you don't have a copy of Katalog, you can download the PDF from Porsche website, or send them $ for the CD - see URL:
http://www.porsche.com/canada/en/acc...artscatalogue/
cheers/Brian
This component not shown in Katalog, but if you look at illustration 107-12 you can see the extermal shaft/lever sticking out of the top of the varioram assembly - follow the lines from the actuator arms on part nos. 4 and 6.
BTW If you don't have a copy of Katalog, you can download the PDF from Porsche website, or send them $ for the CD - see URL:
http://www.porsche.com/canada/en/acc...artscatalogue/
cheers/Brian
05-03-2013, 04:19 PM
#40
Just a tip for those who might order the oil seal o-ring item -- I ordered from Reid online and they sent the wrong part. Sitting here with the whole thing disassembled, opened up the package, and....the oil seal they sent is about five times bigger than the one I ordered. FML.
08-23-2013, 09:15 PM
#41
Three Wheelin'
Can someone point out what section/chapter/page in the repair manual the diagram in post #28 comes from? I've got this out and would like to review that literature. Thanks!
Edit: Found it. Section 24, page 13.
Edit: Found it. Section 24, page 13.
Last edited by Paul902; 08-24-2013 at 01:54 PM.
08-24-2013, 06:57 PM
#42
Three Wheelin'
How To with Pictures
Today, I finished replacing both the main and shaft seal rings. Here is a pictorial of the steps. Overall, a fairly easy job, just requiring basic tools. I spent somewhere around 3 hours, total. Thanks to the previous contributors on this thread, which helped tremendously.
Tools required:
10 mm, 13 mm 3/8" sockets and ratchet.
7 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, and 13 mm 1/4" sockets and ratchet.
Short 1/4" socket extension.
#2 Phillips screwdriver and #2 Phillips screwdriver bit.
7 mm, and 10 mm wrenches.
Torque wrench.
Small pick.
Flashlight, toothbrush, parts cleaning brush and tray.
Consumables required:
Dow Corning Molykote 55 O-ring lubricant. I sourced from Motion Industries.
Degreaser.
Spray 9 or other general cleaner.
Aerospace 303.
Oil. I used some Mobil 5W-50 that was around.
Shop towel.
Parts required:
Main Seal Ring, Porsche 993.110.263.01. I sourced from Fister D.
Shaft Seal Ring, 8x12x3 mm lip seal, SKF 3030. Sourced at local bearing shop.
1. Remove the small cover over the alternator. There are three 10 mm bolts holding it. I removed by loosening them, but completely removed the top center one for installation, later.
2. Remove two electrical connectors from the front blower assembly and an additional one on the left hand side.
3. Remove vacuum line from under the vacuum capsule at the front of the blower assy, and second vacuum line from Varioram just right of the blower assy.
4. Unbolt the blower assy from the Varioram. Two bolts around the left side. Pic shows the hose already removed, but actually both can be removed at the same time.
5. Remove blower assy.
6. Using stubby #2 Phillips bit, and wrench, free ignition wire harness to get a bit of wiggle room.
7. Remove Varioram flap assy.
Reach in behind with 10 mm socket on 1/4" ratchet as shown.
Remove remaining bolt in front.
Remove the vacuum line connected to the vacuum capsule
Here is the assy, ready for degreasing:
Here is the Varioram with flap assy removed:
8. Remove vacuum capsule from flap bracket by removing two #2 Phillips screws, and carefully unclipping the actuator arm ball/socket.
9. Remove main seal from flap bracket. Here are old(top) and new(bottom) seals.
10. Undo nut holding flap shaft in place, and remove washers and lever arm
Here is the old shaft seal in place.
11. Remove old shaft seal with small pick.
12. Complete disassembly of flap and clean all parts.
13. Apply some Molykote 55 to new main seal and insert in flap bracket.
14. Apply some Molykote 55 to new shaft seal and install with open side visible, as shown.
15. Lightly oil all moving parts and complete reassy of flap assy. Note 7 Nm on the 13 mm hex nut and 5.6 Nm on the two Phillips screws.
16. Wipe off Varioram mating surface.
17. Insert flap assy into place. This was a tight fit and required some pushing on the plastic cover over the alternator. Others have loosened the Varioram, itself, but this was not necessary in my case, although it was close.
18. Bolt flap assy into place. Here you can see one had with blue glove holding the ratchet, and its handle just visible under the Varioram.
19. Clean blower assy. I had unbolted the three main sections and cleaned individually. Here it is ready for install.
20. Reinstall blower assy, and connect remaining electrical connectors, and vacuum lines.
21. Carefully install the alternator shroud cover. Note the three tabs sticking down. They must go inside the lower part of the shroud.
I had the center bolt removed and the two lower bolts loosed off as much as possible to allow space to fit this upper shroud in without damaging it, as it is known to crack.
22. Remove the 8 mm bolt holding the AC lines down, and loosen the 13 mm bolt holding the AC line bracket at the compressor. This enables you room to get at the left hand shroud bolt with a 10 mm wrench, as shown.
23. Retighten AC bolts from step 22, and recheck that all vacuum and electrical connectors are done up, and you are good to go.
PS...Yes, I know my alternator and fan belts are on backwards.
Tools required:
10 mm, 13 mm 3/8" sockets and ratchet.
7 mm, 8 mm, 10 mm, and 13 mm 1/4" sockets and ratchet.
Short 1/4" socket extension.
#2 Phillips screwdriver and #2 Phillips screwdriver bit.
7 mm, and 10 mm wrenches.
Torque wrench.
Small pick.
Flashlight, toothbrush, parts cleaning brush and tray.
Consumables required:
Dow Corning Molykote 55 O-ring lubricant. I sourced from Motion Industries.
Degreaser.
Spray 9 or other general cleaner.
Aerospace 303.
Oil. I used some Mobil 5W-50 that was around.
Shop towel.
Parts required:
Main Seal Ring, Porsche 993.110.263.01. I sourced from Fister D.
Shaft Seal Ring, 8x12x3 mm lip seal, SKF 3030. Sourced at local bearing shop.
1. Remove the small cover over the alternator. There are three 10 mm bolts holding it. I removed by loosening them, but completely removed the top center one for installation, later.
2. Remove two electrical connectors from the front blower assembly and an additional one on the left hand side.
3. Remove vacuum line from under the vacuum capsule at the front of the blower assy, and second vacuum line from Varioram just right of the blower assy.
4. Unbolt the blower assy from the Varioram. Two bolts around the left side. Pic shows the hose already removed, but actually both can be removed at the same time.
5. Remove blower assy.
6. Using stubby #2 Phillips bit, and wrench, free ignition wire harness to get a bit of wiggle room.
7. Remove Varioram flap assy.
Reach in behind with 10 mm socket on 1/4" ratchet as shown.
Remove remaining bolt in front.
Remove the vacuum line connected to the vacuum capsule
Here is the assy, ready for degreasing:
Here is the Varioram with flap assy removed:
8. Remove vacuum capsule from flap bracket by removing two #2 Phillips screws, and carefully unclipping the actuator arm ball/socket.
9. Remove main seal from flap bracket. Here are old(top) and new(bottom) seals.
10. Undo nut holding flap shaft in place, and remove washers and lever arm
Here is the old shaft seal in place.
11. Remove old shaft seal with small pick.
12. Complete disassembly of flap and clean all parts.
13. Apply some Molykote 55 to new main seal and insert in flap bracket.
14. Apply some Molykote 55 to new shaft seal and install with open side visible, as shown.
15. Lightly oil all moving parts and complete reassy of flap assy. Note 7 Nm on the 13 mm hex nut and 5.6 Nm on the two Phillips screws.
16. Wipe off Varioram mating surface.
17. Insert flap assy into place. This was a tight fit and required some pushing on the plastic cover over the alternator. Others have loosened the Varioram, itself, but this was not necessary in my case, although it was close.
18. Bolt flap assy into place. Here you can see one had with blue glove holding the ratchet, and its handle just visible under the Varioram.
19. Clean blower assy. I had unbolted the three main sections and cleaned individually. Here it is ready for install.
20. Reinstall blower assy, and connect remaining electrical connectors, and vacuum lines.
21. Carefully install the alternator shroud cover. Note the three tabs sticking down. They must go inside the lower part of the shroud.
I had the center bolt removed and the two lower bolts loosed off as much as possible to allow space to fit this upper shroud in without damaging it, as it is known to crack.
22. Remove the 8 mm bolt holding the AC lines down, and loosen the 13 mm bolt holding the AC line bracket at the compressor. This enables you room to get at the left hand shroud bolt with a 10 mm wrench, as shown.
23. Retighten AC bolts from step 22, and recheck that all vacuum and electrical connectors are done up, and you are good to go.
PS...Yes, I know my alternator and fan belts are on backwards.
Last edited by Paul902; 08-24-2013 at 08:20 PM.
08-24-2013, 11:56 PM
#43
Rennlist Member
^ Excellent addition to the thread. Thanks Paul!
