TMc993

Ed,

See if you can find a product called "Gunk Disc Brake Quiet." It comes in a aerosol can and is a lightweight adhesive designed just for the problem you have. Use is simple...Apray a light coating on the back of the pad, wait about 30 seconds for it to become tacky, slide the pad in place and align it with the backing plate, do the other side, the press the brake pedal a couple of times to set it the adhesion between the pads and the plates.

I've used it on several different applications....It holds well in use and when the time come to remove the pad, a thin putty knife releases the bond fairly easily.

If you can't find it, call me and I'll bring my can down to you...I'm in the book.

Terry

Ed Burdell

I think that's the ticket, Terry. I'll scout around. I know there's a can of something like that in my garage.

Thanks.

Mike J

I usually find that, once the spyders are removed, the adhesive is shot. Given the pads can get really hot (especially on the track), I have not found an adhesive that will reglue old spyders to new pads and take the heat of the track (but then again, I have not tried the Gunk stuff)...and most of the guys that do brake jobs in my shop just buy new spyders anyways. I think lots of the squeal is the vibration of the pad, and that vibration is dampened by having a spyder virtually attach the pad to the brake pistons.

There seems to be a lot of variance in brake squeal...some cars never squeal, even with no spyders and corrosion on the backs of the pads, some need everything new to get the squeal out. I think it can depend on a number of things, including the condition of the disk, pad brand, corrosion, and even the slight angle shifts of the caliper (given the small amount of slop in the two mounting bolts). Its pretty subtle, but also very frustrating to those owners whose cars squeal...

Cheers,

Mike

Ed Burdell

Very true, Mike - lots of variables and lots of results.

When I did my rears earlier this year, I took the spiders out and had no squeal problems whatsoever. I was hoping to do the same for the fronts, when I ran into those 996 parts.

Ed Burdell

Morning guys:

The Saga of the squealing brakes continues. Last week I was finally successful in fetching those 996 shims out of the front brakes. I removed the pads, sprayed that CRC stuff on the back and then reinstalled the pads. While the squeal went away while I was in motion and not braking, I still sounded like a poorly maintained school bus when I hit the brakes. I'm thinking about installing the old spiders I kept from the rears and using the CRC stuff again.

My question is that the 993 spiders are of two varieties: "fat" and "thin." Am I correct in assuming the fat ones go into the leading pistons (i.e. toward the front of the car)? Or are the pistons different diameters anyway, making it idiot proof? I've never pulled the calipers to see. Thanks.

NightFlyer

Ed,
I'm living proof that the spiders are idiot proof. They are different diameters and I believe the forward pistons are the larger ones.

Ed Burdell

Thanks. I'll give it a whirl.

I would have preferred to live spider-free, but something must be done. Serves me right for using zimmermans and pagid blues, I guess.

911PERVY

34mm & 30mm on the rears, 36mm & 44mm fronts for a standard 993

inkatouring

I often find that it costs me more money when I try to save money by DYI-ing. But I keep trying....