Bobby G

Thanks. I went with the lower wattage based on your post!

Bobby G

I finally installed these today. It was much easier than I thought (in fact, how to pull the light out puzzled me and then I realized how easy it is to slide it out). I'll test it out tonight.

Thanks for the write up.

-bg

jago

first i want to thank the OP for this thread.
another example of a world of good stuffs here.

my ride came to me with oem halo low beams (too weak)
and a pair of 55w 8k monsters in the highs.
the ballasts are 'ztw performance' (?) not slim and stuffed behind lamp assy.
i first bought 4300k silverstars for a modest upgrade
on the lows but was still not satisfied.
i then bought a pair of 35w 4300k hid on ebay (i forget the brand)
and after reading over this thread a few times i got up the gumption
to swap the silverstar halogens into the hibeams and convert my projectors
to the new 35w hids. they look and shine great and i also
lost an annoying short in the hibeam indicator.
my job was a little more complex than this thread
because of the removal of the 'old' hids from the hibeams.
but the logic and pics of the thread really helped.

however i am still experiencing one issue..
when i flash the brights i lose the pass side low beam and it doesnt come back
until i turn the light switch **** off (or to position 1) and then back on.
one note, the stupid plug behind the pass headlamp is loose because the bracket broke.

any one with ideas on this?
thanks john.

User 122821

My guess is that the ampere jump with the high beams turning on is causing the voltage to drop below the minimum needed by the HID transformer. Either the transformer is too sensitive or there might be issues with the system at the instance high ampere demands.

mts

I also did the 35W H1 in 5000k and it matches my LED fog lights very well if any future posters are concerned about that.

RichPugh

I just completed the DDM kit with 35w ballasts and 4500K bulbs. Just as it's been described in these forums a hundred times... 1st one went smooth in like 15min, 2nd one took 5 min and I even took a few minutes to remove the lenses and clean them inside. What a killer inexpensive mod for this car.

I also bought 5000K bulbs but I doubt I'll use them as the 4500's are as white as I want without being too blue. Anyone want em? $20 shipped (in the US 48 continental)

993Godspeed

Anybody has pictures of their kits installed? It would really help in determining with what color to go, 4500, 5K, 6K...lol I am undecisive!! Help me please!! I want a bluish kind of color but not that blue, Thanks.

espanolie

my thanks to all for their write ups, input, feedback, etc. based on what i've read, i'm leaning towards 35W with 4500 color, max 5000. i suspect with 5000 i'll have just a hint of blue from a distance. correction/feedback welcome.

RichPugh

I've had 2 ballasts fail on me and I think it's due to the heat generated inside the headlamp assembly. There is no ventilation so I think the ballasts die prematurely. I swapped back to standard bulbs for the meantime but I'd really like to get the HID's back in there.

Knight

I wonder if there would be any harm in drilling extra holes in the headlight back casing, just to give it more ventilation?

I've noticed ballasts within the headlight housing also tends to create condensation on rainy days, real annoying!

Or your other option would be to mount the ballast outside, such as the trunk and have a long wire feed into the headlight. You'd have to drill a hole in the casing for sure.

RichPugh

I've considered swiss-cheesing the removable cover but putting the ballast on the outside of it is probably best. It looks like it will still fit in the fender. I may do that... These work great when they stay working LOL. I had one go out in 2 months and I figured it was an isolated incident because the 2nd one didnt go out for another 15 months.

espanolie

i have the stock litronic on my targa and the ballasts are mounted out of the headlight assembly and within the front bonnnet - just above where the cd changer would be and one each side, of course. the carpet covers it all so it's a pretty clean and unnoticed when the front hood is opened and the carpet is in place.

seems like porsche may have thought of those rainy days and were being proactive 'bout it. just a thought...

boman993

Mine are inside the headlight housing and have been since 2011. No issues so far <knock on wood!>. It does appear that in the last few years the ballasts are a newer generation from what I bought. Maybe that's the problem?

HIDs (no matter what kit you go with) are a great addition to the 993! It's incredible how crappy the halogens really are at night.

Kika

I did some thermal measurements back in 2007 with HIDs mounted inside the headlight housings. ChuckW drove down to WestEnd from the valley with his HIDS on the enire way. When he got there, I measured ballast temps with an IR thermometer. What we found out, is that the oil cooler drives the temp on the passenger side, the driver side was cooler. I forget the exact temps, but they are in the archives somwhere. The conclusion, ballasts inside the housing is not nearly hot enough to melt anything or cause damage.

Knight

I have the factory litronics as well, however this year one side stop working (igniter is done). So I switched to the aftermarket setup with a ballast within the headlight housing. Typically today's modern ballasts come with a built in igniter (all in one).

Our cars being probably one of the first to run litronic technology had them setup with a ballast in trunk, igniter within the headlight housing connecting directly to the HID bulb. So if you ever want to go from OEM --> aftermarket (let's say due to not wanting to get overpriced OEM setup for basically 90's technology!), it's not possible to keep the ballast outside with no wire feeding into the bulb. Basically the main connector cannot handle the high voltage, so a wire needs to be fed directly from the ballast into the bulb.