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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 02:37 AM
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Default Control arm question

Wrapping up Elephant front control arm bushing install. I want to clarify 1 thing:

Does it matter if I torque the arms while they droop or should I torque them while lifting the arm with a jack?

I torqued them at droop with the ball joint connected to the strut. Also I made sure the "ear" located itself within the "notch."

Reading some of the posts on this subject It seems that this does not matter on the poly urethane install. Just worried that if I did it wrong the new rubber bushing would tear itself apart.

Thanks
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ttw18
Wrapping up Elephant front control arm bushing install. I want to clarify 1 thing:

Does it matter if I torque the arms while they droop or should I torque them while lifting the arm with a jack?

I torqued them at droop with the ball joint connected to the strut. Also I made sure the "ear" located itself within the "notch."

Reading some of the posts on this subject It seems that this does not matter on the poly urethane install. Just worried that if I did it wrong the new rubber bushing would tear itself apart.

Thanks
rubber bushes need to be indexed(torqued) at the intended ride height(angle)
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
rubber bushes need to be indexed(torqued) at the intended ride height(angle)
+1 having just installed new upper A-arms/ball joints with rubber bushings on my Honda as per the factory manual.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 12:03 PM
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If you do not torque @ the static sitting, you will wear the bushings out fast!

Here is what I do...

Put on the bushings, do a little more then hand tight.
Put the wheels back on & torque
Drive up on some ramps, or other thing to raise up the front.
climb under & pull & push the car to settle it.
Tighten the bushings, but don't torque,
Pull & push the car again
Torque

Your done.
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Old Aug 31, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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I indexed the bushings as recommended. Took it for a test drive. This completed my RS spec bushing upgrade (front and rear). Wow! Didn't drive it too hard because the suspension is out of alignment, but right away I noticed a significant increase in responsiveness. Like most have experienced, the darty, squirming behavior under braking is gone. Looking forward to getting it aligned. I also replaced the rear subframe side mounts. No increase in NVH that I have noticed., but that uneasy and vague feeling coming from the rear during cornering seems to be gone.
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Old Sep 1, 2010 | 03:56 AM
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Hi

I have installed these front and rear on my 993. The front ones have a notch in them that you have to locate correctly in order to fit, so you do not need to load the suspension up as such, because if they are in the wrong place you cannot fit them. Also if you are riding low (RS height), you should index them when pressing them into the arms.

The rears definitely 100% need to be tourqued with the full weight of the car on the wheels. As someone said you will destroy or seriously compromise them otherwise. When you get the geo done whoever does it should retourque all the arms anyways and will have the car on a platform in the air to make it easier.

All the best

Berni
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