Clutch Slave Cylinder - Installation
08-09-2010, 10:34 PM
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
the clutch shaft bearings last at least as long at the clutch and are very inexpensive to replace when the clutch is due for refresh. Not sure why one would want to use the aftermarket solution...
The needle bearings/caps can only be replaced with everything apart (and should be!)
The T/O bearing is captured and attached to the PP.
The fork will fall out of place if the shaft is removed in situ
The descriptions in PET sometimes lose something in translation
The needle bearings/caps can only be replaced with everything apart (and should be!)
The T/O bearing is captured and attached to the PP.
The fork will fall out of place if the shaft is removed in situ
The descriptions in PET sometimes lose something in translation
What is the PP though? Got it...pressure plate. So the PP is actually pulled away from the flywheel. That is different.
I take it that cover #11 just seals off the end of the shaft and is held in place by that plate #13 under slight pressure.
Would it make any sense to drill the shaft with a 1/32"drill and then cross drill and debur it where the bearings are? That way it could be greased every year from the end with a cone tipped grease gun.
I realize the fork will shift if the shaft is removed, but will it drop down into the cavity? Centering it could be done with the rubber cap removed when reinserting the shaft...or?
08-11-2010, 12:22 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
Mark, thanks for that!
What is the PP though? Got it...pressure plate. So the PP is actually pulled away from the flywheel. That is different.
I take it that cover #11 just seals off the end of the shaft and is held in place by that plate #13 under slight pressure.
Would it make any sense to drill the shaft with a 1/32"drill and then cross drill and debur it where the bearings are? That way it could be greased every year from the end with a cone tipped grease gun.
I realize the fork will shift if the shaft is removed, but will it drop down into the cavity? Centering it could be done with the rubber cap removed when reinserting the shaft...or?
What is the PP though? Got it...pressure plate. So the PP is actually pulled away from the flywheel. That is different.
I take it that cover #11 just seals off the end of the shaft and is held in place by that plate #13 under slight pressure.
Would it make any sense to drill the shaft with a 1/32"drill and then cross drill and debur it where the bearings are? That way it could be greased every year from the end with a cone tipped grease gun.
I realize the fork will shift if the shaft is removed, but will it drop down into the cavity? Centering it could be done with the rubber cap removed when reinserting the shaft...or?
Again, I wouldn't worry about trying to improve this shaft or the bearings. There really isn't a need to lubricate them as long as:
- the bearings/caps are replaced when clutch job is done
- the little seals are in decent shape and keep the dust out and grease in
The deisgn is pretty solid and holds up well.
The bearings are <$10 ea. to replace as part of the clutch job.
Yes, if the shaft is pulled out the clutch fork will drop out of place.
Hope that helps!
