IXLR8

Thanks Nelson,

Good clear pics and I could relate to many of the comments on there.

I could have just taken that rubber cap off and greased the actuator rod.

I also noted the pivot. I was wondering about that shaft.

I have a new master and slave cylinder on order along with the hose. It'll be another winter project.

IXLR8

Thanks for that tip. Its what I ended up doing...a couple of times till I got the top nut on a few turns.

I'm sure if the car was on a full size lift, one could get two arms in there after removing the metal heater tube.

IXLR8

Well its done and it is far better than it was.

The metal heater tube was removed to make life easier. While I was at it, it was thoroughly cleaned, inside (now free of a very thin layer of dust) and out.

I used johnsjmc's method of pulling the slave cylinder to its side once it was pushed onto the studs. The wedging of it held it in place while I got my other hand to spin on a nut. It took a few tries and a bit of cursing, but I finally got it. I actually had to install it twice; the first time around, the rod was off to the side...again...this time cutting the rubber boot a bit.

I used my Motive Power Power Bleeder that I got from Pelican Parts to pressurize the system and bleed it. It worked incredibly well...after I pinched off the brake fluid reservoir vent hose. I forgot about that.

I removed the rubber cap and vent tube under it to have a look using a mirror. Not much I wanted to do at the moment, so I buttoned it up.

Did greasing the actuator rod make a difference? You always make one change and note the effect. But the old clutch fluid was very dirty and it is now clear. The combination of the two made a substantial difference. Actuation of the clutch is now quiet till the very end where it squeaks just a bit.
BTW, I used Dow Corning High Vacuum Grease which is a high temperature silicone grease...quite thick.

Does the clutch fork pivot shaft run in plastic or metal bushings?

If it runs in metal bushings and when I have this apart one day, I'll be drilling that pivot shaft and cross drilling it at the bushings so that it can be lubed periodically. I have to see how all these parts work first.

Garth S

Yes, agreed that the 'return' spring in the slave is the issue. The thought was that sometimes, the return flow rate of the brake/clutch juice is restricted by the orifice in the master cylinder .... so opening the slave bleeder lessens the effort to compress the assembly.
I had a close up view of the guts of a similar slave cyl. today .... when one spat out its actuator rod as I was dropping the dual clutch unit & flywheel from a friends 928 - fortunately, no juice on my tee shirt

rsr91128

If you thought the slave cylinder was goofy wait unitl you figure out the pivot shaft. Can you say needle bearings? Yes needle bearings in a enviroment of clutch dust, reaffirms the importance of making sure the bell housing vent hose is attached to the air cleaner housing. I am pretty sure this adds to the notchy pedal many owners feel. There are a few companies that offer a replacement pivot shaft with bronze or brass bushings but nobody with experience has ever answered the question of if they are worthwhile or not in a 993. Seems like those with experience just replace the needle bearings.

I will ask again for my upcoming winter clutch job:

Has anyone had a good or bad experience with something like this vs. the original bearings?

http://www.automotion.com/g50-g64-tr...r-porsche.html

TIA

IXLR8

Well I just got back from a short drive to test things. Its still squeaking, but a bit less than before. Still a bit notchy as well.

The clutch fluid flush probably helped which has me thinking that the slave cylinder might be producing the same noise that you'd get from cheap hydraulic actuators.

With a new clutch master and slave cylinder and hose on the way for the next winter project, I'll see what the results are.

Pretty pathetic! My 1999 Honda CR-V with almost three times the mileage uses a stamped steel throwout bearing lever that pivots on a ball...works great...and after lubing it last week, it is as smooth and quiet as the day I bought the car eleven years ago. It just isn't all that inspiring to drive...if it isn't German, chances are its boring to drive.

Rinty

That looks like a worthwhile upgrade to do, as part of a clutch replacement.

A rear grawk that my car had, stopped a while after the clutch was bled, so it may take a little time.

My car still has a grawk below the clutch pedal assembly; possibly the master cylinder? But everything's working fine, so I'm going to leave it alone.

IXLR8

I had to chuckle though at some of their statements..."Now you can fix your transmission with our economy kit...update your 1987-89 911® transmissions with this inexpensive Fix-It-Kit".

At $239.99 for a couple of bronze bushings and a shaft...I like their use of the words "economy kit" and inexpensive".

But if it works, why not.

So can the shaft be pulled out with the transmission in place? I noticed it under the vent cover.

rsr91128

You have to pull the shaft to seperate the fork from the trans case leaving it with the TO bearing when you split the trans from the engine, but you wouldn't be able to change the bearings with the trans in the car.

IXLR8

Thanks Erik. Another question though. I take it you've had all this apart as one point.

When you undo that M6 bolt #14 holding the lever #13 which in turn enables one to pull the clutch control shaft #8 out the the transmission casing, is there any chance at all for the release fork #2 and clutch release bearing #4 to drop into the transmission case?

I see that they use a guide tube #5 that the release bearing rides on.

Can the release fork #2 be pulled though the opening after the rubber inspection cap is removed? I think not based on what I saw yesterday.

#12 looks like a needle bearing, but #10 is called a bush in their list and #11 is called a cover, whatever that does.

Also, the action of the clutch release fork pulls the release bearing away from the pressure plate; I'm used to seeing it press into the pressure plate on other cars I have worked on.

Rinty

Why aren't you out riding, instead of wrenching, in that short Quebec summer?

IXLR8

I had my 6 1/2 week fill in the Alps.

Riding locally just doesn't cut it anymore.

Rinty

I thought you might be rode out, after that.

IXLR8

That too.

438 kms in over 9 hours with no stops. That tells you how twisty the roads were considering I never went over 100 km/hr.

MarkD

the clutch shaft bearings last at least as long at the clutch and are very inexpensive to replace when the clutch is due for refresh. Not sure why one would want to use the aftermarket solution...

The needle bearings/caps can only be replaced with everything apart (and should be!)
The T/O bearing is captured and attached to the PP.
The fork will fall out of place if the shaft is removed in situ

The descriptions in PET sometimes lose something in translation