TMc993

+1...As you can see below, I've owned quite a few sports/sporty cars and just as many mundane sedans and trucks and never, ever, I have I had an indy shop or a dealership screw me over. There's too much at stake for those that are honorable establishments.

Stuttgart951

That is the idea and pretty much how the situation has been handled to this point. Am I angry? Yes. However, until the cause of the problem is identified, any discussion of fault serves only to blow off steam.

The individual overseeing the problem (semi-hands on) has a good reputation within the P-car community down here - and that community is very small. This is specifically why I have not mentioned the shop or the individual(s). If they are not at fault and this really is a one-in-a-million freak occurrence, I do not wish to tarnish their reputation.

If they are at fault - even if that fault is found by another shop - I do not believe it would be professionally possible to deny liability given the aforementioned nature of the community.

That said; after having met with the individual in question; it does not, in fact, appear that the oil pump is functioning. Whether this is due to a failure of the pump, itself, or the shaft, know one will know until the case is split.

The lines and tubes do not appear to be blocked and the tank (although not visually verified) reportedly also holds oil without issue.

"Why" the pump is not operating is the mystery.

Either way; the engine needs to come apart. Only then, I suspect, will the cause of the failure be known. As this is a standard "perk" of 993 ownership, I can't say I was not prepared for the work, but I was hoping to get at least another 25,000 miles out of the car given the excellent health of the motor - sans what is seemingly the only 911 oil pump failure in the history of the universe.

Some solace, I suppose, can be taken from the probability that, at 75,000 miles, everything should be able to be refreshed with little difficulty.

My usual mechanic and the individual at the shop in question know each other well and will likely be in touch this week. I have communicated to the subject shop that I would like my usual guy - who is obviously far more familiar with the car - to look at it before any work is performed, regardless of location and/or scope.

So, as of this writing, just about everyone is pretty much scratching their heads; but at least the *reason* for the lack of pressure in the engine has been identified.

During the interim period, the mental, "while we are in there" list continues to grow.

I'll probably start another thread to that end, with a different title, so as to attract those who have already gone through the process.

Will also update this one when something worthy of communication occurs.

Thanks all for your advice; thoughts; etc... and I just ordered my first set of Hoosiers.

Quadcammer

that sucks to hear. Love to see pics of the teardown though.

good luck.

CaptainCalf

Sorry to hear it's gotta be split open prematurely

Keep in mind that there's a wire basket surrounding the pump inlet foot, so you're probably looking for something small enough to get past it and into the pump that could have been introduced during the last service. I'm not sure what the wire mesh size is. Maybe your usual wrench can tell you...

Mike J

Take a look through the engine teardown section of my website...lots of pictures of how the oil pump is connected to the layshaft through a spline, etc.

http://www.pcarworkshop.com/index.ph...ump.2FLayshaft

I do not want to freak you out, but ff something has failed that results in ANY metal fragments, that will require a complete flush of all the oil lines (including the ones running to the front of the car), the oil radiator, oil thermostat, everything. Some people replace the front radiator if there are metal particulates in the oil because its very difficult to get clean.

The oil pump itself is quite simple, so its difficult to see how it could fail other than losing a tooth.

Definitely please post any pictures you can take of the teardown and source of the problem.

Cheers,

Mike

Mike J

The wire mesh looked quite fine if I remember. However, that is for the scavenge side of the pump ; the main pressure side is a direct feed from the tank to the pump. No filters/mesh there :-)

geolab

OK now how did they test to see if pump is not working?
If one of the above relief valves is mounted awkwardly, pump does not pump.
big filthy pump test, is to remove small filter and crank without DME
good luck

Mike J

I assumed they removed the feed oil line from the oil tank to the case, and if you look down the inlet in the case, you can see the primary gear set of the pump. If the engine is cranked, those gears should be moving.

That has been checked, correct?

Stuttgart951

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...e-rebuild.html

Step ahead of you.

Mucho pictures will be taken - I'm sure just about everyone is curious.

This is exactly what we did, yes.

Small filter detached, feed line plugged and creative use of a mirror and flashlight. No movement and no mess. I was praying to be doused in oil but had no such luck.

Paul M

Just curious - did they use genuine Porsche or Mahle filters?

Stuttgart951

Mahle for both.

Historically; the first time a Mahle was used as the small filter.

Paul M

I was told that some turbo owner's experienced oil pressure issues with Mahle filters, but that it didn't affect NA vehicles as much. After hearing this, (similar to non-oem drive belts and misfires,) I always insist on Porsche filters, as the additional cost is negligible. Just another data point for you.

Maybe Steve W. can elaborate.

rsr91128

I read the same thing about the filters, so on my last change I made sure to switch back to Porsche filters. I always cut the filters open and from my eye the Mahle looks better constructed. Maybe whoever was making the Porsche filter back in the day did a better job, but the ones I got were made in the USA with a cheesy sticker plopped on what looked like a Wix filter. I will probably switch back to Mahle next change. JMO.