OBD II Reader "No code"
Dear fellas,
So finally the "Check engine" light appeared on my -96 4S. After scanning this forum I got myself this cheap codereader ($100) and it displayed "no code". Ofcourse I operated it after the manual and since the reader cant find any code its not capable to erase the signal and turn off the check engine light. Now, is it possible the reader was too cheap or could there be something else wrong with my car? The manual of the codereader says it can read all the codes on every OBD II car from 1996. Anyone?
Peter, Sweden
So finally the "Check engine" light appeared on my -96 4S. After scanning this forum I got myself this cheap codereader ($100) and it displayed "no code". Ofcourse I operated it after the manual and since the reader cant find any code its not capable to erase the signal and turn off the check engine light. Now, is it possible the reader was too cheap or could there be something else wrong with my car? The manual of the codereader says it can read all the codes on every OBD II car from 1996. Anyone?
Peter, Sweden
Perhaps there is an error in the operating method?? Just a thought, as most meters are quite particular as to the method of connection and activation - to a non operating engine.
Generally, connect the meter to the OBD II port on the tunnel 'hump' ... and then turn the ignition switch from 'off' to the 'run' position [ all instrument icon lights glowing in red, green, etc]. Then, turn the meter on, and it will begin searching for the communication protocol ...... then , once a link is established, the display will direct you to find one or more stored codes - and the method to erase them. Good idea to record the codes, for knowing the cause is the first step
..
If you have done this already, I'm confused as to why the check engine light is on ..... there can be exceptions though: some meters will not detect an airbag light, which can activate if the steering wheel were pulled before disconnecting the battery - for example.
Generally, connect the meter to the OBD II port on the tunnel 'hump' ... and then turn the ignition switch from 'off' to the 'run' position [ all instrument icon lights glowing in red, green, etc]. Then, turn the meter on, and it will begin searching for the communication protocol ...... then , once a link is established, the display will direct you to find one or more stored codes - and the method to erase them. Good idea to record the codes, for knowing the cause is the first step
..If you have done this already, I'm confused as to why the check engine light is on ..... there can be exceptions though: some meters will not detect an airbag light, which can activate if the steering wheel were pulled before disconnecting the battery - for example.
I suspect you are trying to connect to the car -- with the alarm/immobilizer ON.
This is NOT the way to do it.
You need, as said, to 'blip' the key-fob so that the alarm/immobilizer is OFF. You should see NO LIGHT for the 'alarm' in the clock.
When you are sure the alarm/immobilizer is OFF -- try getting the code-scanner to 'reconnect' again. It sometimes takes a while because the code-scanner has to 'try' several 'protocols' (remember the days when we used modems?) before it 'connects' (successfully).
If it still won't connect -- try connecting to the wife's/girlfriend's car - just to make sure it 'works' ...and proceed from there.
Good luck!
Gerry
This is NOT the way to do it.
You need, as said, to 'blip' the key-fob so that the alarm/immobilizer is OFF. You should see NO LIGHT for the 'alarm' in the clock.
When you are sure the alarm/immobilizer is OFF -- try getting the code-scanner to 'reconnect' again. It sometimes takes a while because the code-scanner has to 'try' several 'protocols' (remember the days when we used modems?) before it 'connects' (successfully).
If it still won't connect -- try connecting to the wife's/girlfriend's car - just to make sure it 'works' ...and proceed from there.
Good luck!
Gerry




