Porsche 993 Convertible Top Control Unit -- How do I remove this?
#1
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm having problems with my 993 convertible top. Figured I try to remove the Convertible Top Control Unit, resolder it and put it back in to see if that fixes the problem. Only problem is -- I can't figure out how to remove it and don't want to break something while trying this.
Any advice on the steps to remove this would be greatly appreciated.
Any advice on the steps to remove this would be greatly appreciated.
#2
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I just did this today. Mine top stopped working for no apparent reason. The controller is to the left of the steering column under the dash. Mine is 1998 and it has the indicator light control (993.641.330.00) box straddles the cab controller . This indicator controller is in an aluminum box and easy to identify Remove a nylon nut from either side of this control unit and disconnect the 2 connectors (easy and you cant mix them up). The top controller is now visible (it was under the indicator controller). It is attached using 2 nylon "nuts" - different from teh other unit. They are sort of like sleeves that seem to also serve as spacers. . They are visible (use a mirror) but because of the angle they are not that easy to remove. You will mostly have to work blind and just reach up in there. Feel them and then put a 10mm socket on them and use a flexible shaft extension or whatever tool you can get up in there. They also are cut for a phillips driver. Once they start to move you can hand turn them. Then pull the controller down and move the 4 connectors. They are all keyed so you cant get them in the wrong place when you reassemble but for peace of mind, you can take a picture. The controller is a PCB with a plastic housing that just pops apart. Look for bad solder joints when you open it. I had several that looked very questionable that are the joints for the connector pins. They do NOT want to take solder very well. Im not sure if its the age or the original plating. I tried to scrape them and then i re soldered them. reassembly is jut the reverse. Getting those nylon nuts on is tricky if you have average size hands so so it will be frustrating. But the end result is a functioning top The whole process took me less than 1.5 hours.
The following users liked this post:
jibmaster1 (09-22-2019)
#4
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did this a few years back with my 993 Cab. Follow sogasd's advice for removal. It's not that difficult. Just tight as he said. However, if I can recommend something to you: find a local professional computer guy or someone who solders with professional equipment and take the board to them (maybe you can solder better than me). I feel fairly comfortable soldering I thought and identified a few cold joints on my board. The top functioned slightly better after I made my attempt to re-flow the joints I thought were bad-i.e., it wasn't as intermittent when opening and closing afterwards, but still not 100%. Then I went through all the microswitches, cables, gears, and tested everything. I thought it "had to be" those because I just re-soldered my controller right? Nope. I finally just sucked it up and found someone professionally and took the board to him to really ensure it wasn't a cold joint I missed. Sure enough, I discovered I am not that great at soldering! $100 later and it worked flawlessly after that. The guy told me he found a few more under magnification and repaired all the joints. What stood out to me was how perfect and clean every joint looked, and how the top worked like it should again. I mean try it yourself of course, but to me it was the best $100 dollars I spent to fix it right. When reinstalling I added a small piece of soft adhesive foam between the controller box and how it mounts up under the dash. Like a 3-5mm piece. My thought was it would isolate any future vibrations from the car that possibly would prematurely shake the controller box. Who knows... I know Tore Bergvill in Norway does this repair...not sure on price or cost to ship it to him. Good luck.
#6
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A quick follow up. I had to go back in and i discovered that you can pop the dash air vent out pretty easily and then its not such a blind task. The vent can be pried out using a plastic tool. Still tight quarters but its a little more visible.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
A quick follow up. I had to go back in and i discovered that you can pop the dash air vent out pretty easily and then its not such a blind task. The vent can be pried out using a plastic tool. Still tight quarters but its a little more visible.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did this a few years back with my 993 Cab. Follow sogasd's advice for removal. It's not that difficult. Just tight as he said. However, if I can recommend something to you: find a local professional computer guy or someone who solders with professional equipment and take the board to them (maybe you can solder better than me). I feel fairly comfortable soldering I thought and identified a few cold joints on my board. The top functioned slightly better after I made my attempt to re-flow the joints I thought were bad-i.e., it wasn't as intermittent when opening and closing afterwards, but still not 100%. Then I went through all the microswitches, cables, gears, and tested everything. I thought it "had to be" those because I just re-soldered my controller right? Nope. I finally just sucked it up and found someone professionally and took the board to him to really ensure it wasn't a cold joint I missed. Sure enough, I discovered I am not that great at soldering! $100 later and it worked flawlessly after that. The guy told me he found a few more under magnification and repaired all the joints. What stood out to me was how perfect and clean every joint looked, and how the top worked like it should again. I mean try it yourself of course, but to me it was the best $100 dollars I spent to fix it right. When reinstalling I added a small piece of soft adhesive foam between the controller box and how it mounts up under the dash. Like a 3-5mm piece. My thought was it would isolate any future vibrations from the car that possibly would prematurely shake the controller box. Who knows... I know Tore Bergvill in Norway does this repair...not sure on price or cost to ship it to him. Good luck.
Where did you have the board soldered?