Ed Burdell

Hey guys,

I am swapping out my parking light bulbs (See "Parking Light Improvement" thread), and step one is removing the bumperette. Despite soaking the nuts with WD-40, the lower bolt sheared off.

I need to replace the bolt, but getting to it seems nigh on impossible without removing the entire bumper.

Is there a trick to this that I'm not seeing? While the top bolt looks like it can slide out from the top, the bottom one doesn't look like it can do that.

Of course, I could initiate the bumperette removal mod or the turbo S duct mod , but I really don't want to turn a $9 project into a $500 project.

Thanks for your help.

ilko

What a perfect excuse to get a ROW bumper

fast_freddy

The bolt that snapped is part of a plate assembly which installs from inside the bumper assembly. Drill out what remains of the bolt and use a S/S sheetmetal screw to affix the bumperette into the plate. The same thing happened to me a month or so ago when I installed my Turbo S ducts/led lights.

ironimages

+1 did the same thing last year I just let it go with one bolt holding it.. and said to myself maybe I should do the euro bumper...

justin-in-athens

+2 The bolt that snapped is part of a plate assembly which installs from inside the bumper assembly. Drill out what remains of the bolt and use a S/S sheetmetal screw to affix the bumperette into the plate. The same thing happened to me a month or so ago when I installed my Turbo S ducts/led lights.

I used a lag bolt from lowes so I did not need to worry about a nut, just put int right through the bumper from the inside.

1pcarnut

Another option is to drill out the bolt using the right size drill and re-tap the threads. Sometimes, if you're lucky, after drillng out the bolt, an Easy-out will work. But either way I'm not a big fan of sheetmetal screws. If I recall, these are 6mm bolts with a 1.25 or 1.5 thread. I can check if you want or use your good one as a sample, go to the hardware store and get the matching drill and tap. I would think you could do this for under $20 and it would be done right.

fast_freddy

The bolt doesnt thread into the plate that was previously noted. The bolt is welded to the plate (along with another bolt as there are two per bumperette) and a nut is threaded onto the bolt to capture the bumperette. While I agree that using sheetmetal screws is less than ideal, the bumperette places very little stress on the mounting bracket. If it supported something more critical it would have been addressed as you described.

If memory serves, I used a S/S nut with a flat head that I drove with a 10 or 11mm socket. I "tapped" the threads with some extra lube and the aforementioned nut, removed it, cleaned it off then reaffixed it with blue Loctite. The cars has been through two trackdays thus far without issue.

1pcarnut

You're right, I had it pictured backward in my mind. I wonder if the bolt could still be drilled out and the plate threaded, then tap the plate and use a 6mm bolt?

Ed Burdell

Hmm, it doesn't look like duct tape will get 'er done, so I'll use the sheet metal screw gambit. I'm not a fundamentalist when it comes to repairs, especially if there are no esthetic repercussions. Thanks for the ideas, everyone.

boulderbobo

I could see how this can easily happen on a 12 yo car. The bolts appear to be carbon steel so corrosion is probably the culprit.

You could pull the bumper and replace the plate. I changed my bumper last week. It's is not a difficult DIY. 3/10.

The part you broke is a bumper plate. There is a left and a right. Make sure you get the correct side or buy both.

PN: 99350538500 L
or
PN: 99350538600 R

$13

and about 1.5 hours of labor.

GL!



Bob-

AtlJimK

Ed,

Euro turbo's callin your name!

fast_freddy

Thats "kinda-sorta" what I did.

Ed Burdell

Slippery slope indeed. A $9 and 15 minute project becomes....huge. LOL!

Ed Burdell

Success!

Those LEDs look great, too. A very good match for the 4300K HIDs.

Thanks again, y'all.