Ducktail install
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Eggo, Ca
Ducktail install
Well, the install has started. Since we all like a story and pics, figured I'd post my progress. Removed the original one first without much difficulty and some help from the spousal unit. Next was setting new tail on the hinges and doing a trial fit. Had to duct tape the inside screw plate in place and ended up using the original spacers plus had to make some additional ones for the right side.
I'm getting some binding at the top edge (near the window) even after raising it up with the spacers. The instructions with the tail say to grind a 45 at this point but I'm trying a little gentle persuasion first. Prior to doing all this I have been setting the tail out in the sun to cure since it's still "green".
I'm going to have to find some old gas struts to use since the ones on there now are much stronger than needed. Just for curiosity I weighed the factory unit on the bathroom scale and it came in at 26 lbs. and the duck at 9 lbs. Quite a difference. In the last pic I've installed the latch, put in the rubber adjuster at the corners, and parked the car in the sun with a wedge to hopefully get it to come up a little, otherwise it will be grinder time.
Here are today's pics:
I'm getting some binding at the top edge (near the window) even after raising it up with the spacers. The instructions with the tail say to grind a 45 at this point but I'm trying a little gentle persuasion first. Prior to doing all this I have been setting the tail out in the sun to cure since it's still "green".
I'm going to have to find some old gas struts to use since the ones on there now are much stronger than needed. Just for curiosity I weighed the factory unit on the bathroom scale and it came in at 26 lbs. and the duck at 9 lbs. Quite a difference. In the last pic I've installed the latch, put in the rubber adjuster at the corners, and parked the car in the sun with a wedge to hopefully get it to come up a little, otherwise it will be grinder time.
Here are today's pics:
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Eggo, Ca
Thanks, overall I'm pleased with the constructions and fit.
Been wanting to do this for several years.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 14
From: Dallas, TX
My ducktail opens and closes just like the normal OEM deck llid. Pop it open and it pops open about 2 inches. You can then lift lit up and close it with very little effort. The secret......one dead and good deck lid strut.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,259
Likes: 58
From: Nor Cal
Looks good Roger!
I got mine put on using the factory shims, but may need to add a little more. I have the same issue (center near rear window is a little low.) I will try the wedge heat method to see if it can come up a little. Otherwise fitment is pretty nice for FRP fresh out of the box.
I have spoke with others in regards to the hood shocks. I am going to remove mine. The constant pressure from them pushing on the tail will cause warping issues with the heat and cold.
I am also adding GT3 TEK RS side skirts and factory front splitters.
I got mine put on using the factory shims, but may need to add a little more. I have the same issue (center near rear window is a little low.) I will try the wedge heat method to see if it can come up a little. Otherwise fitment is pretty nice for FRP fresh out of the box.
I have spoke with others in regards to the hood shocks. I am going to remove mine. The constant pressure from them pushing on the tail will cause warping issues with the heat and cold.
I am also adding GT3 TEK RS side skirts and factory front splitters.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Eggo, Ca
Looks good Roger!
I got mine put on using the factory shims, but may need to add a little more. I have the same issue (center near rear window is a little low.) I will try the wedge heat method to see if it can come up a little. Otherwise fitment is pretty nice for FRP fresh out of the box.
I have spoke with others in regards to the hood shocks. I am going to remove mine. The constant pressure from them pushing on the tail will cause warping issues with the heat and cold.
I am also adding GT3 TEK RS side skirts and factory front splitters.
I got mine put on using the factory shims, but may need to add a little more. I have the same issue (center near rear window is a little low.) I will try the wedge heat method to see if it can come up a little. Otherwise fitment is pretty nice for FRP fresh out of the box.
I have spoke with others in regards to the hood shocks. I am going to remove mine. The constant pressure from them pushing on the tail will cause warping issues with the heat and cold.
I am also adding GT3 TEK RS side skirts and factory front splitters.
I'm going to park it in the sun for the next couple of days with the wedge, seems to have come up enough to clear but I expect it will settle a little. I will probably do as the instructions say, and remove a little from underneath since they apparently build up this area for just this reason.
I thought the fit was pretty good overall too. I'm going to go through some old boxes and see if I can find a couple of worn out struts with maybe just enough pressure to do the job, otherwise I can see warping would rear its ugly head down the road.
Opinion please: What do you guys think of painting the center console under the parking brake and the 2 pieces just in front of the shifter with the switches and warning lights? I've liked it when I've seen it on the 996s, on the fence with the 993.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,218
Likes: 2
From: Sandy Eggo, Ca
It's from Getty Design out of So Cal. Bought directly from them. It's not perfect but I didn't really expect it to be, I've got some trimming/fitting to do and there are some imperfections to smooth out, but thus far I'm pleased.
