Do you own a 993 salvage Porsche?
#1
Do you own a 993 salvage Porsche?
I see these for sale, but I'm not sure what you should pay for them. Assuming a great repair job.
If you own a salvage 993 porsche... What did you pay for it?
If not, what would you pay for one?
If you own a salvage 993 porsche... What did you pay for it?
If not, what would you pay for one?
#2
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Location: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California
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I bought a damaged '97 993 Cab and had it repaired. I highly recommend that you never buy a salvaged car unless you know the exact cause of the salvage title and the repairs that were done to it. Also, a salvage title substantially decreases the worth of cars like Porsches. Think long and hard before you buy one, even with a good PPI.
#4
One of the nicest 993's I've ever owned was a 96 targa in Ocean Metallic Blue purchased two years ago for around $20,000. It also had 90,000+ miles. The good news was the damage was not frame/engine/water related, the owner had full written and photo documentation of every stage of the repairs, from accident to reconstruction and in addition had an unrelated [to the accident] full engine out rebuild as well as a completely reconstructed targa top including new glass simply because it was slightly scratched. This older guy was so **** he named his car "Percy" and had it sandblasted on the aluminum door sills he had installed as well as his vanity plate. He also painted the center console to match the exterior. I had receipts totaling $23,000 from the work and spoke with the body shop who did the body work and the Porsche shop who did the engine out service. After deciding I wanted a coupe, I sold it to a local first time Porsche owner for $26,000 and he could not have been happier. By the way this car came from California which I believe has tougher consumer protection laws than most other states when it comes to salvaging a car.
#5
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there has been a 96 C4S polar silver/black,only 35K miles on it, on ebay many, many times that has a salvage history. Car currently has a clean Michigan title. Car started out with a reserve around $40K, dropped to a buy it now around $37K. The seller offered me the car at $35K.
Next auction he had a Buy it Now price of $31,500 on it. Car has a crappy aftermarket turbo S rear spoiler on it-looks like it just bolts to where the grill goes. It sits at a very strange angle on the car. Car has a very average option list.
Anyway, repiars happened way back in 98. The current owner states the car runs, drives, looks great. No evidence of severe damage, but apparently never investigated what the actual extent of that damage was. He bought it from a very reputable local dealer two years ago.
I offered him a figure below his $31,500, he refused. He stated that he will be relisting the car again at a Buy it Now of $35K. If I was local to him, I would look at, and drive the car. If it was all there, get a complete engine/chassis/body PPI done. For a driver, if the car was all there, for less than $30K...it would be reasonable.
As long as you know that if-when you ever want to sell the car again, the VAST majority of potential buyers, would not consider a salvage history.
The asking price has to drive the deal, and this particular car is still $3-5K above where it would be a good enough deal for me.
If that same 35K mile car had a clean history/title...it would probably bring low forties.
just my opinion...
Next auction he had a Buy it Now price of $31,500 on it. Car has a crappy aftermarket turbo S rear spoiler on it-looks like it just bolts to where the grill goes. It sits at a very strange angle on the car. Car has a very average option list.
Anyway, repiars happened way back in 98. The current owner states the car runs, drives, looks great. No evidence of severe damage, but apparently never investigated what the actual extent of that damage was. He bought it from a very reputable local dealer two years ago.
I offered him a figure below his $31,500, he refused. He stated that he will be relisting the car again at a Buy it Now of $35K. If I was local to him, I would look at, and drive the car. If it was all there, get a complete engine/chassis/body PPI done. For a driver, if the car was all there, for less than $30K...it would be reasonable.
As long as you know that if-when you ever want to sell the car again, the VAST majority of potential buyers, would not consider a salvage history.
The asking price has to drive the deal, and this particular car is still $3-5K above where it would be a good enough deal for me.
If that same 35K mile car had a clean history/title...it would probably bring low forties.
just my opinion...
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#10
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#11
Drifting
The value of the car in 98, being only two years old, would have been quite high, so in order for the insurance company to total it rather then repair it, means the damage was significant. It doesn't take as much damage to total a lesser value (older) car because the car isn't worth as much.
#12
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#13
I never have owned a Porsche that was salvaged. I would pass on body damage, but theft recovery or mechanical damage may be a smart choice for someone looking to do a project 3.8/RS type car.
#14
Remember that each state have different thresholds when it comes to determining when the car is declared a salvage vehicle. I've heard stories in California whereas a $200,000 Ferrari sustains $10,000 worth of damage and the owner refuses the car because he feels the true value of the car will drop much more than simply the cost of the repair. He then "forces" the insurance company to take back the vehicle and when that happens it must be declared "salvaged." Then the insurance company simply wholesales the vehicle to recoup most of their losses. It would be great if someone with actual insurance or industry salvage experience could chime in.