fast_freddy

No problem breaking the ball joints loose at all. If memory serves I used a combination of crows feet and a big effin lever depending on access. As it relates to selection of the the tie rods it boiled down to availability. Stable Energies in NJ had the ERP ones in stock which were also the type I wanted. I made no modifications to the tie rods which are identical to the ones in the link.

Ed Hughes

I'm glad you finally clarified that. As I read the earlier posts calling Elephant Racing ERP, I was going to clarify. ERP is the initials of Eisenlohr Racing Products, who also make suspension components.

David in LA

no need to install solid side bushings with a tilt kit for a mostly driven street car, right? Just the standard solid side kit with equal length bolts should suffice?

TIA

Bill Verburg

Most of us use the flat solid sides, not the tilt kit. tt's might want the tilt kit but it complicates the installation wrt the forward cross bar for little to no benefit for the rest of us.

Rennline seems to have the best kit, they supply the bolts and washers, which are missing from the ERP kit.

David in LA

Hi Bill - Thanks for the input. Just to make sure I understand, the tilt kit helps prevent "squatting" on acceleration right, so is more an issue for Turbos? Does the forward cross bar on my turbo have to be modified if I were to use the tilt kit (frankly right now thinking that the flat solid sides should be sufficient).

Thanks!

Bill Verburg

yes, the tilt adds antisquat, and yes the front cross piece mount need to be altered

this connection(lower right corner) needs to be altered when the tilt kit is used as the leadin end is dropped

ToSi

Re: anti-squat effect. I'm not a chassis engineer but read a book or two on the topic... Lowering the front of the subframe must reduce the % anti-squat. This is due to the effect on instant center locations. I assume someone mentioned anti's a long time ago & folks assumed it meant an increase.

A base 993 has 90%+ a/s, really high vs accepted norms (again, not a pro but read online & print). I suspect the effect was reduced in the evo to improve feel & traction at super low ride height & stiff setups.

Flying Finn

Hey Bill,

When you install the solid mounts (not the tilt kit), it can be done just on jack stands by taking the bolts off and lowering the subframe, correct?

I'm just about to "plunge in" into my suspension "refreshening" (all monoball links & solid mounts rear and monoball a-arms front) and want to be sure.

Bill Verburg

correct

Flying Finn

Thanks Bill.

Paddy

You'll need a BFH or in my case an air chisel.

Flying Finn

I do have a BFH and also HFH but air chisel might be a gentler approach...

That's to separate the subframe from the body?

Paddy

Not to separate the subframe, but to get the old bushings out from their housings. I spent 30-45 min on one w/ the BFH then decided to go buy a air chisel.

David in LA

Are you using all Rennline parts or ??

peter y.s pang

Just want to know, what tools can take out the lower part of rubber from subframe mount without take out whole subframe from car.