Cabriolet Canvas Top Replacement
05-03-2010, 11:18 AM
#31
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I'm very tempted to jump off the cliff and give it a try after seeing your results. If you have the time to respond, I'm going to shotgun some questions here.
Top Adhesive - What did you use, and were you happy with it??
Rear Window - Any difficulties or cold welding involved, or did it come presewn into the top, and just zip up to the headliner.
Remaining Wrinkles on Side - What do you think led to them. Not able to stretch canvas sufficiently, aftermarket top fit not quite exact, or just get tired of messing with it (if its the latter, don't feel bad, I've been therre)
Rivets to Drill out and replace - Where were they located and any difficulty using a pop-rivet tool to replace??
Thanks for all of your information you have shared. If I end up doing it, I will try and take some detailed pictures as well to build up knowledge on this process. Too bad Katy's not just a little closer to Austin.
Top Adhesive - What did you use, and were you happy with it??
Rear Window - Any difficulties or cold welding involved, or did it come presewn into the top, and just zip up to the headliner.
Remaining Wrinkles on Side - What do you think led to them. Not able to stretch canvas sufficiently, aftermarket top fit not quite exact, or just get tired of messing with it (if its the latter, don't feel bad, I've been therre)
Rivets to Drill out and replace - Where were they located and any difficulty using a pop-rivet tool to replace??
Thanks for all of your information you have shared. If I end up doing it, I will try and take some detailed pictures as well to build up knowledge on this process. Too bad Katy's not just a little closer to Austin.
05-03-2010, 09:14 PM
#32
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I'm no expert on adhesives, but here's what I used: mostly I used Headliner Spray Glue 2X Strength, and for some tighter smaller spots where masking off for overspray was problematic I used Fabri-Tac (liquid) Permanent Adhesive. When I did some previous trim work, I used Duro All-Purpose Spray Adhesive. The liquid is pretty thick and isn't as easy to apply uniformly, but it worked for the small areas. I was happy with the spray adhesive, but it was pretty expensive. $20 for one spray can.
The rear window was already sewn into the top with a zipper for the headliner. I didn't buy a new headliner, and my old one was sewn to the top not zippered on, and I couldn't find a zipper long enough to put into the new headliner I made, so after I sewed my own headliner, I had to handsew it to the top.
On those remaining wrinkles, partly I'm more concerned that I will make it worse rather than better if I try to fix it, partly I'm wondering whether a little time, a little water, a little heat, and the existing tension will shrink them out on their own, partly I'm not concerned enough with it right now to not give the leave it alone option a chance to work.
The rain gutters are sandwiched between the rubber seal and the top frame, and need a low profile attachment on one side and no access on the other side (inside the frame of the top). I had never used a rivet tool before, but I bought one for $18 at Lowes or Home Depot and an assortment package of rivets. It turns out I only needed the 1/8 diam 1/4 grip aluminum ones.
I have a lot more pictures than I uploaded, and I plan to write up the notes I made on how to do it incorporating the changes in my approach the second time that was much more successful than the first time.
The rear window was already sewn into the top with a zipper for the headliner. I didn't buy a new headliner, and my old one was sewn to the top not zippered on, and I couldn't find a zipper long enough to put into the new headliner I made, so after I sewed my own headliner, I had to handsew it to the top.
On those remaining wrinkles, partly I'm more concerned that I will make it worse rather than better if I try to fix it, partly I'm wondering whether a little time, a little water, a little heat, and the existing tension will shrink them out on their own, partly I'm not concerned enough with it right now to not give the leave it alone option a chance to work.
The rain gutters are sandwiched between the rubber seal and the top frame, and need a low profile attachment on one side and no access on the other side (inside the frame of the top). I had never used a rivet tool before, but I bought one for $18 at Lowes or Home Depot and an assortment package of rivets. It turns out I only needed the 1/8 diam 1/4 grip aluminum ones.
I have a lot more pictures than I uploaded, and I plan to write up the notes I made on how to do it incorporating the changes in my approach the second time that was much more successful than the first time.
05-26-2010, 11:17 PM
#34
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I wrote up a diy, but it was really long, and a little unbalanced. I was rushing at the time I wrote it, and it is completely untested as far as whether what I wrote will make any sense to anybody else. If anyone would like me to email the diy to them so that they can test it and modify it into something a little better, pm me with your email address. I would really prefer to have it tested out before posting anything to this site or one of the diy sites.
05-27-2010, 08:45 PM
#35
I just had mine redone a year ago and went through the same thought process. In the end I had it done by a local shop that has done quite a few of them and boy am I glad I did. Not only are there alignment issues with the rubber on the side frame but tension issues front to back. And cable adjustments that need to be done just right in order for the top to close perfectly. And by having it done, it is there responsibility if anything goes wrong or if you need adjustments down the road. I am all for DIY's but this one is a bitch.
