Lifter specialists, do I need longer ones?
#1
King of Cool
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Lifter specialists, do I need longer ones?
So I got the new billet valve covers and decided to change the lifters "while at it". I bought them couple of years ago and now was good time to do them.
So I remove 1st and it looks like the damn thing might be the longer version (the ones I bought were the normal length) or is it just that the "extension piece" of the lifter is pulled out when I pulled it out of the rocker, it was really hard to pull out, had to use pliers.
I looked at John's lifter DIY and it looks in his photo that the old lifter looks exactly the same way as mine (longer) too so I think I'm ok but want to be sure... I tried to push it back in to no avail...
Or what do you guys think (see pic and also the pic from Jon's DIY)? Just want to be sure before I put everything back in.
Also, it looks like there's a little black piece of seal remaining in the rocker arm cup, that must be from the lifter so I need to take it out, correct?
TIA!
So I remove 1st and it looks like the damn thing might be the longer version (the ones I bought were the normal length) or is it just that the "extension piece" of the lifter is pulled out when I pulled it out of the rocker, it was really hard to pull out, had to use pliers.
I looked at John's lifter DIY and it looks in his photo that the old lifter looks exactly the same way as mine (longer) too so I think I'm ok but want to be sure... I tried to push it back in to no avail...
Or what do you guys think (see pic and also the pic from Jon's DIY)? Just want to be sure before I put everything back in.
Also, it looks like there's a little black piece of seal remaining in the rocker arm cup, that must be from the lifter so I need to take it out, correct?
TIA!
#2
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Hi Finn,
I bought set of lifters, too, back the price was too good to pass up. Mine are marked INA, same as yours. I think INA makes them all, however they are packaged, Febi/Bilstein or Porsche.
When your new lifters pump up, likely the piston will extend further, similar to the original lifters.
Maybe the non-standard size lifters are for engines that have had some machining?
I think you need to get all the debris, pieces of lifter seal, whatever, out of the bores in the rocker arms before installing the new lifters.
I bought set of lifters, too, back the price was too good to pass up. Mine are marked INA, same as yours. I think INA makes them all, however they are packaged, Febi/Bilstein or Porsche.
When your new lifters pump up, likely the piston will extend further, similar to the original lifters.
Maybe the non-standard size lifters are for engines that have had some machining?
I think you need to get all the debris, pieces of lifter seal, whatever, out of the bores in the rocker arms before installing the new lifters.
#3
It is my understanding that the longer lifters are for rebuilt heads with an out of spec guide/seat.
Hopefully someone can confirm.
Your right on track with the black stuff, it is part of the older style lifter.
Hopefully someone can confirm.
Your right on track with the black stuff, it is part of the older style lifter.
#5
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Hi Finn,
I bought set of lifters, too, back the price was too good to pass up. Mine are marked INA, same as yours. I think INA makes them all, however they are packaged, Febi/Bilstein or Porsche.
When your new lifters pump up, likely the piston will extend further, similar to the original lifters.
Maybe the non-standard size lifters are for engines that have had some machining?
I think you need to get all the debris, pieces of lifter seal, whatever, out of the bores in the rocker arms before installing the new lifters.
I bought set of lifters, too, back the price was too good to pass up. Mine are marked INA, same as yours. I think INA makes them all, however they are packaged, Febi/Bilstein or Porsche.
When your new lifters pump up, likely the piston will extend further, similar to the original lifters.
Maybe the non-standard size lifters are for engines that have had some machining?
I think you need to get all the debris, pieces of lifter seal, whatever, out of the bores in the rocker arms before installing the new lifters.
Exactly
The over-sized lifters are only needed when doing a valve job and only if enough of the valve is machined to require it.
Even then... they practically cost as much as a new valve!
The lifter brands are Luk and INA
Last edited by MarkD; 04-17-2010 at 12:23 PM.
#6
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Finn,
Please keep us posted on this. When you have it all back together, you may want to pull the DME relay and spin the engine over until oil pressure is up and the lifters are pumped back up. (Short bursts so you don't overheat the starter.)
Please keep us posted on this. When you have it all back together, you may want to pull the DME relay and spin the engine over until oil pressure is up and the lifters are pumped back up. (Short bursts so you don't overheat the starter.)
#7
King of Cool
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Yep, that's the plan. I pull the DME even when the car has sat for long. I'm also changing oil & filters, tranny oil, brake calibers and drilled some holes to the bumper and also to bumper cover...
Will post some pics of my bumper design once I'm done.
Will post some pics of my bumper design once I'm done.
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#9
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#10
I'm in the process of replacing my lifters as well and have noticed the same thing. The old lifters looked considerably longer. The old lifters would compress a bit, where the new ones were solid. Do they extend with pressure? Would appreciate some insight with your experience. I did order the standard size INA lifters from Pelican now at $37.
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I just finished replacing all my lifters too. I had the same concern about the length. Send an email to Steve Weiner and discussed a bit back and forth.
Thank you Steve for your prompt response on a Saturday. I didn't expect to hear from you over the weekend.
First thing, you can't measure the old vs new lifter length. If you buy the standard length, then you'll be fine unless your motor had a valve job, like previously discussed here already.
I used a plier to pull the old lifters out. All seals sheared on all the lifters so I had to tickle out the remaining bits out of the bottom of the rocker hole.
Soak the new lifters in oil, and then push them in. I noticed some lifters went in pretty smoothly and others needed extra effort. I used a piece of cardboard in my palm to push the lifters into the rocker. It's a messy undertaking but oh well. Be careful to line up the lifter and rocker correctly as you kind of only have 1 shot to get it right.
Once you reinstall the rocker, the valve will get pushed in an bit and it feels all wrong. Don't be concerned, it'll all adjust after a few minutes.
Out of my 12 rockers, I had 2 shafts that didn't rotate well inside the hole. Who knows what the previous owner did but I had to use a fine sandstone to carfully smooth the scratches out.
When you're all done, Steve recommended to idle until motor is warm and then go drive it. I pulled the DME relay and cranked a few times. I can still hear some of the valves ticking only when the starter motor cranks w/o firing. As I have a seasonal licence plate, I have to wait until April 1st to get back on the road.
Hope this helps to clear some concerns.
Ed
Thank you Steve for your prompt response on a Saturday. I didn't expect to hear from you over the weekend.
First thing, you can't measure the old vs new lifter length. If you buy the standard length, then you'll be fine unless your motor had a valve job, like previously discussed here already.
I used a plier to pull the old lifters out. All seals sheared on all the lifters so I had to tickle out the remaining bits out of the bottom of the rocker hole.
Soak the new lifters in oil, and then push them in. I noticed some lifters went in pretty smoothly and others needed extra effort. I used a piece of cardboard in my palm to push the lifters into the rocker. It's a messy undertaking but oh well. Be careful to line up the lifter and rocker correctly as you kind of only have 1 shot to get it right.
Once you reinstall the rocker, the valve will get pushed in an bit and it feels all wrong. Don't be concerned, it'll all adjust after a few minutes.
Out of my 12 rockers, I had 2 shafts that didn't rotate well inside the hole. Who knows what the previous owner did but I had to use a fine sandstone to carfully smooth the scratches out.
When you're all done, Steve recommended to idle until motor is warm and then go drive it. I pulled the DME relay and cranked a few times. I can still hear some of the valves ticking only when the starter motor cranks w/o firing. As I have a seasonal licence plate, I have to wait until April 1st to get back on the road.
Hope this helps to clear some concerns.
Ed
#12
I just finished replacing all my lifters too. I had the same concern about the length. Send an email to Steve Weiner and discussed a bit back and forth.
Thank you Steve for your prompt response on a Saturday. I didn't expect to hear from you over the weekend.
First thing, you can't measure the old vs new lifter length. If you buy the standard length, then you'll be fine unless your motor had a valve job, like previously discussed here already.
I used a plier to pull the old lifters out. All seals sheared on all the lifters so I had to tickle out the remaining bits out of the bottom of the rocker hole.
Soak the new lifters in oil, and then push them in. I noticed some lifters went in pretty smoothly and others needed extra effort. I used a piece of cardboard in my palm to push the lifters into the rocker. It's a messy undertaking but oh well. Be careful to line up the lifter and rocker correctly as you kind of only have 1 shot to get it right.
Once you reinstall the rocker, the valve will get pushed in an bit and it feels all wrong. Don't be concerned, it'll all adjust after a few minutes.
Out of my 12 rockers, I had 2 shafts that didn't rotate well inside the hole. Who knows what the previous owner did but I had to use a fine sandstone to carfully smooth the scratches out.
When you're all done, Steve recommended to idle until motor is warm and then go drive it. I pulled the DME relay and cranked a few times. I can still hear some of the valves ticking only when the starter motor cranks w/o firing. As I have a seasonal licence plate, I have to wait until April 1st to get back on the road.
Hope this helps to clear some concerns.
Ed
Thank you Steve for your prompt response on a Saturday. I didn't expect to hear from you over the weekend.
First thing, you can't measure the old vs new lifter length. If you buy the standard length, then you'll be fine unless your motor had a valve job, like previously discussed here already.
I used a plier to pull the old lifters out. All seals sheared on all the lifters so I had to tickle out the remaining bits out of the bottom of the rocker hole.
Soak the new lifters in oil, and then push them in. I noticed some lifters went in pretty smoothly and others needed extra effort. I used a piece of cardboard in my palm to push the lifters into the rocker. It's a messy undertaking but oh well. Be careful to line up the lifter and rocker correctly as you kind of only have 1 shot to get it right.
Once you reinstall the rocker, the valve will get pushed in an bit and it feels all wrong. Don't be concerned, it'll all adjust after a few minutes.
Out of my 12 rockers, I had 2 shafts that didn't rotate well inside the hole. Who knows what the previous owner did but I had to use a fine sandstone to carfully smooth the scratches out.
When you're all done, Steve recommended to idle until motor is warm and then go drive it. I pulled the DME relay and cranked a few times. I can still hear some of the valves ticking only when the starter motor cranks w/o firing. As I have a seasonal licence plate, I have to wait until April 1st to get back on the road.
Hope this helps to clear some concerns.
Ed
Thanks for that. I was wondering what Steve W. would say about this situation. I am soaking the lifters in Rislone for 24 hrs. before inserting them. I am also blowing out the ports in the rocker and shaft and filling them with oil prior to install. Pulling the DME and getting some pressure in the system is also a good idea. Every lifter that I pull is leaving elements of the old seal inside the rocker head and these are being cleaned out. Engine is out for a LWF so great time to do this. I'll post how things go at startup.
Thanks
#13
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I must be missing the boat on this thread .... which is likely OK as Std length lifters appear to be the answer; however, were the valves/seats reground in any 993 engine, I assume that the valve would sit deeper into its seat = longer stem protrusion ...... therefore, if anything, a shorter lifter would be the answer - not a longer one ( lifter resides between valve stem & rocker tip - right?).
#14
I must be missing the boat on this thread .... which is likely OK as Std length lifters appear to be the answer; however, were the valves/seats reground in any 993 engine, I assume that the valve would sit deeper into its seat = longer stem protrusion ...... therefore, if anything, a shorter lifter would be the answer - not a longer one ( lifter resides between valve stem & rocker tip - right?).
Our concern here is that the standard lifter when new is considerably shorter than the old lifters (also standard) when being replaced. There is a consensus that the new lifters extend once they are pressurized and run for a time.