Problem with new Konis
#1
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My mechanic just called and told me the rear Koni shocks I just bought do not work with the ROW M030 springs. He said the springs are too short. Would Koni make sport shocks that don't work with Porsche springs? Ugh. I will call Paragon in the morning.
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#2
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Is there a circlip under that spring perch that looks like a washer?
Many of the Koni applications use a circumferencial groove and circlip to locate the spring perch. This is used as a crude ride height adjustment in some applications that have multiple grooves. Can't tell what's going on with yours in that photo though.
Many of the Koni applications use a circumferencial groove and circlip to locate the spring perch. This is used as a crude ride height adjustment in some applications that have multiple grooves. Can't tell what's going on with yours in that photo though.
#3
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Is there a circlip under that spring perch that looks like a washer?
Many of the Koni applications use a circumferencial groove and circlip to locate the spring perch. This is used as a crude ride height adjustment in some applications that have multiple grooves. Can't tell what's going on with yours in that photo though.
Many of the Koni applications use a circumferencial groove and circlip to locate the spring perch. This is used as a crude ride height adjustment in some applications that have multiple grooves. Can't tell what's going on with yours in that photo though.
#4
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It is quite common that aftermarket lowering springs (yes I know MO30 isn't aftermarket) are loose on the shock when unloaded. I don't really see a problem with running it as shown, but you will need to be more careful every time you take it off a jack to make sure the springs seat properly.
The other option, which is what I would do, is to fabricate a spacer on top of the spring to keep a little tension on the spring when unloaded, assuming that the car is at the desired ride height. You could put a spacer beneath the spring but it will raise the car.
Both of the above suggestions are predicated on this shock meeting the needed compression specs to be compatible with ROW M030 springs. To check this, you will need to do some measurements on how much compression travel is available from static ride height compared to the amount of travel before you bottom out the car. It is possible however that either they sent you the wrong shock or that this shock does not have enough compression travel to support a shorter spring so I would check part numbers closely.
The other option, which is what I would do, is to fabricate a spacer on top of the spring to keep a little tension on the spring when unloaded, assuming that the car is at the desired ride height. You could put a spacer beneath the spring but it will raise the car.
Both of the above suggestions are predicated on this shock meeting the needed compression specs to be compatible with ROW M030 springs. To check this, you will need to do some measurements on how much compression travel is available from static ride height compared to the amount of travel before you bottom out the car. It is possible however that either they sent you the wrong shock or that this shock does not have enough compression travel to support a shorter spring so I would check part numbers closely.
#6
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OK I am feeling a little better, I will still see what Koni says though. Ijust found this description on the Konis at Carnewal;
"Used as replacement for the standard shocks and can be used with standard, M030, M033 or lowering springs."
"Used as replacement for the standard shocks and can be used with standard, M030, M033 or lowering springs."
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#8
Rennlist Member
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There is a DIY writeup at
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-dummies.html
There are pictures and everything.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...r-dummies.html
TIP: Note that when installing the M030 rear springs and Bilstein HD shocks, the M030 rear spring will not seat up within the upper spring perch—there will be a gap. However, once weight is applied to the rear wheels, the spring will properly seat itself.
#9
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Jason from Paragon confirmed what others have posted, that it is normal to have a gap between spring bottom and perch when using lowering springs. Once everything is installed and the car is on the ground shocks will compress and springs will be on their perch.
#10
Rennlist Member
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That gap looks to be correct, as others have said.
In the attached pic, the ROW TT springs ( nearly identical to the ROW MO30) are tie-wrapped to the upper perch prior to install .... the bottom gap shown is normal when the suspension is unloaded, and is set for a ride height of ROW Sport - 10mm.
The real problem with those shocks is there is no apparent ride height adjustment ..... SOL if corner balancing is attempted.
In the attached pic, the ROW TT springs ( nearly identical to the ROW MO30) are tie-wrapped to the upper perch prior to install .... the bottom gap shown is normal when the suspension is unloaded, and is set for a ride height of ROW Sport - 10mm.
The real problem with those shocks is there is no apparent ride height adjustment ..... SOL if corner balancing is attempted.
#12
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I know, not ideal but as a compromise between Bilsteins (probably too harsh for me) and factory M030 shocks (short service life) they should be ok. Pss10s are just more than I want to spend. For a street driven car do I need to corner balance?
#13
Drifting
#14
Pro
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That's why lowering springs are for looks, nothing else. I can't imagine what the feeling must be when you drive over a hump, fast enough to unseat the springs, come back down and head right into a guard rail or tree....
My previous owner used lowering springs on my car too. I dumped the whole suspension, purchased coilovers as a set with springs and shocks and don't have that problem.
I recall the times, as I was younger and even more stupid then now, sitting in my buddy's VW Golf GTI, doing exactly that, going over a hump and all of a sudden sparks started to fly out the back. He also had shorter springs but the shocks and springs are mounted separately. One of the springs fell out and we bottomed out hard. We had to go look for the spring in the woods for an hour.
My advice, don't do it or just keep cruising down to the ice cream parlor and feel good about it.
Ed
My previous owner used lowering springs on my car too. I dumped the whole suspension, purchased coilovers as a set with springs and shocks and don't have that problem.
I recall the times, as I was younger and even more stupid then now, sitting in my buddy's VW Golf GTI, doing exactly that, going over a hump and all of a sudden sparks started to fly out the back. He also had shorter springs but the shocks and springs are mounted separately. One of the springs fell out and we bottomed out hard. We had to go look for the spring in the woods for an hour.
My advice, don't do it or just keep cruising down to the ice cream parlor and feel good about it.
Ed
#15
Rennlist Member
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just for the record,
corner balancing procedure does not need the rear shocks to be threaded.
Corner balancing is then done through the front shocks, regards
corner balancing procedure does not need the rear shocks to be threaded.
Corner balancing is then done through the front shocks, regards